New to tractors ford 1700 question.

[JC-jetro]

How can i get the rest of it out if all i have is a shop vac? Thanks for the help to the newbie.

You don not want to suck the nasty stuff in to your shop vac. I made a collection container using using and old 1 gall oil container and fitted a 3/4" hose to the where the bottle cap was, cut a slit in to the side and stuck the shop vac hose in there and duct taped it sealed. I then turned the shop vac on and stuck the 3/4" hose inside the rear differential and collected all the stuff from the bottom and side. My vacuum collection bottle picked it all up without getting my shop vac dirty. The concept is the same as medical vacuum system they use to keep the fluid collected during some procedure. I have thread in ref to injector oil change,the new oil is actually put in from the top where the inlet cap/nut is. The bottom hole is drain, the top hole is level hole (sight) and cap on top is the fill.

JC,

PS. I have couple of different wiring diagram for 1700 and they are slightly different, and sorting it out can be a bit tricky if in addition someone modified them before you got your hand on.

Neutral safety switch is a normally open switch, when you clutch it closes the stating circuit and starter turns on. Can you start the tractor without pushing the clutch down. if so , you got to fix it , if not then repair the wires as necessary so they will not short out to the ground.

Pressure switch is a normally closed switch, key ignition the circuit is complete and a red idiot light should illuminate in the dash, pnce engine is on the oil pressure opens up the switch and turns off the light. If upon start the light does not come on and or after the start the light stays illuminated then you have problems, either electrical or oil flow/pressure situation.

On the temp unit , engine off and your temp gage needle should rest in high (unique to 1700, odes not apply to all make and models), once key is in and in on position the needle should jump to cold, after the engine is running the needle should gradually climb up to the middle or a bit over the midsection.

 

[rayikeo2]

After looking at the pictures of the dash changes, I think you won't be able to return it to factory specs. Maybe you just want to use it as is.:confused2:

 

[JC-jetro]

How do you start it, hot wire it? what is that switch on the upper left side of dash> starter switch maybe?

JC,

 

[BG4985]

I have to rub two sticks together and then clap three times to start it.:thumbsup: It has some aftermarket (Pollak- brand) key ignition that is where i guess the glow plug light used to be based on some feedback. Ive only started it a total of two times, once to load it on the trailer and once to get it off. The battery and starter wire were so bad off we had to have on person move it to get the connection and the other to start it. I have no clue why it was rewired this way...it looks like when ever something went bad they just Jerry rigged it to get it working instead of fixing it the right way.

The switch on the upper left is for the headlights, pretty much right above the factory switch for the headlights (go figure). They worked i remember when we unloaded it we were trying to figure out what it went to (smoke screen, flare launcher, etc)

Not trying to be smart but If the only thing that got switched was the ign and the glow light, what would prevent it from going back to the way it should be? The only added hole is the one for the toggle headlight switch. Thanks Anyone have a pic of thier dash so i could see if anything else is missing?

 

[JC-jetro]

Anyone have a pic of thier dash so i could see if anything else is missing?

FYI.

 

[rayikeo2]

Parts are pretty pricey to replace, you might want to run it for a while to see how it preforms before you invest a lot of money.
From the dash picture it looks like you will need 1) ignition switch. 2) start aid, 3) flasher switch (if the fender flashers are still on the fenders) 4) possible headlight switch (optional). It hard to tell what other parts and switches you will need for other places on the tractor. Run it for a while to see what works and what doesn't before you tackle repairs you decide you can live without.

 

[BG4985]

Will do, thank you very much for everyones help and advice. I'll post up again, hopefully once its running this time!

 

[rayikeo2]

Get original equipment parts quote prices here. https://webparts.pvassociates.net/cnh/webparts/main.php

Input as Model 1700 (enter) then select, Compact 2 cy tractor (enter)

You can look up and get prices and part numbers for your Ford 1700 starting here. New holland, North America.
Best to check prices and availability before removing from your tractor. Ray I

 

[JC-jetro]

Will do, thank you very much for everyones help and advice. I'll post up again, hopefully once its running this time!

A wiring diagram for 1700. Might give you some general overview, does have some minor differences with the one on CNH website.

JC,

 

[BG4985]

JC- I ran into a small issue with the aftermarket coolant hoses (adv auto) and was wondering if you were aware of it. The top was easy and not an issue however the bottom one based on the SKU# came back to a 71303 hose. The dia on this hose is slightly larger and thinner and i dont believe it would seal well. (top hose in the dia comparison) I was able to have them look up the 71718 hose which they have as a D. That hose dia fits perfect and is more in line with the original. After a little trimming on both ends it fit fine. The funny part is the 71303 looks to be a much easier fit (shape wise) than the 71718 except for the dia issue. Any how, just wondering if they changed the sku on you after you had originally bought them.