New Tractor - Initial Impressions and Observations
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W5FL
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- TYM T-1104/TX10 Loader Kubota M6800SD/LA1002 Loader Kubota RTV900
Yeah, hard to stay on topic, sometimes....will try to do better. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif However; the Jeep pulls the Fertilizer Spreader home from the Co Op and it is too far to drive the tractor as the air conditioner in the truck quit working due to some ban on R12 freon. See how we get off topic.
Well, I've used the new 21D for about two weeks now, and so far, so good.
60" Mid-mount mower: Works great, smooth runner, and cuts relatively clean (for a large mower). It sure has a lot of power compared to my old 10 HP Simplicity lawn tractor.
Loader: Works fine, though I've found it's a bit of an art to get work everything smoothly at the same time, that is, using the forward/reverse of the tractor, loader tilt and lift as a "system". I'm getting there though.
I have noticed when I use the loader near it's lifting limit one of the Hydro fittings mounted on the loader frame will weap oil a bit.
General observation: It sure is hard to avoid the little nicks and scratches that comes with using a tractor! I try to be careful, but it's almost unavoidable. I already stopped by my dealer and picked up touch-up paint - which I've used several times.
I was grumbling to my wife about the little nicks and such and she put it in perspective for me. She said it *is* a tractor after all, and by the nature of the beasts they are exposed to a relatively rough and tumble existance. She went on to say, keep it clean, keep it well maintained, touch up the nicks and scratches as best you can and don't worry about it. Wise words I suppose...
One other note, I can't say I'm wild about the Laquer based touch-up paint New Holland uses. I know *why* they use it, but I don't care for it as I find it's difficult to get a decent touch-up job with it. Oh well...
*** REAL horses weigh a ton ***
60" Mid-mount mower: Works great, smooth runner, and cuts relatively clean (for a large mower). It sure has a lot of power compared to my old 10 HP Simplicity lawn tractor.
Loader: Works fine, though I've found it's a bit of an art to get work everything smoothly at the same time, that is, using the forward/reverse of the tractor, loader tilt and lift as a "system". I'm getting there though.
I have noticed when I use the loader near it's lifting limit one of the Hydro fittings mounted on the loader frame will weap oil a bit.
General observation: It sure is hard to avoid the little nicks and scratches that comes with using a tractor! I try to be careful, but it's almost unavoidable. I already stopped by my dealer and picked up touch-up paint - which I've used several times.
I was grumbling to my wife about the little nicks and such and she put it in perspective for me. She said it *is* a tractor after all, and by the nature of the beasts they are exposed to a relatively rough and tumble existance. She went on to say, keep it clean, keep it well maintained, touch up the nicks and scratches as best you can and don't worry about it. Wise words I suppose...
One other note, I can't say I'm wild about the Laquer based touch-up paint New Holland uses. I know *why* they use it, but I don't care for it as I find it's difficult to get a decent touch-up job with it. Oh well...
*** REAL horses weigh a ton ***
David USMC
Bronze Member
I am curious, have you tried to un-mount your 60 inch belly mower and how long did it take you. Also, how long does it take you to un-mount your front end loader....QQQQ
For David USMC:
I haven't removed the mid-mount mower yet, so I can't comment on the time required.
I have removed the loader several times, however.
The first time it probably took me ten or 12 minutes as I was very deliberate and cautious since I'd never done it before.
The second time it probably took me six or eight minutes. I believe with a bit more experience, I'll easily get it under five minutes.
Essentially, pull two bolts, disconnect the four hydro line to the loader, raise the loader frame with the loader hydro cylinders and back out from under it.
A guestion for others:
One minor irritant I have is the front of the loader frame that pivots and rests on the ground is getting marred up on my loader. I store my loader in the barn, which has a cement floor, and this is very hard on the paint. Do other folks have this problem, and if not, how do you prevent it?
For now, I'm using a piece of 1/4 inch plywood under the loader frame to minimize the damage to the paint though I'm interested in others experience with this situation.
*** REAL horses weigh a ton ***
I haven't removed the mid-mount mower yet, so I can't comment on the time required.
I have removed the loader several times, however.
The first time it probably took me ten or 12 minutes as I was very deliberate and cautious since I'd never done it before.
The second time it probably took me six or eight minutes. I believe with a bit more experience, I'll easily get it under five minutes.
Essentially, pull two bolts, disconnect the four hydro line to the loader, raise the loader frame with the loader hydro cylinders and back out from under it.
A guestion for others:
One minor irritant I have is the front of the loader frame that pivots and rests on the ground is getting marred up on my loader. I store my loader in the barn, which has a cement floor, and this is very hard on the paint. Do other folks have this problem, and if not, how do you prevent it?
For now, I'm using a piece of 1/4 inch plywood under the loader frame to minimize the damage to the paint though I'm interested in others experience with this situation.
*** REAL horses weigh a ton ***
jgh
Gold Member
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- NH TN90F; B3000 Kubota; Bobcats 430 & A300; Liebherr 621C, Exmark laser Z, 2 sawmills
Re: 4 x 4 Binding
7/30
Hey Wen & the rest of you restless tractor fanatics of varying colors,
Will you allow me a late comment on what you said about part-time 4wd, etc? Full-time 4WD may not be as rare as you think. Over many years I have gained some experience on the subject with many wheels bought and maintained at great expense. Sigh.
Starting completely off topic, we have a 911 (Carrara 4) & a MB wagon (4-matic), both purchased 10 years ago. Each has what is referred to as ALL-WHEEL drive. It stays active ALL the time, no option, and the % split between the front and rear wheel pairs is controlled by a computer reacting to slippage that the ABS detects. Sometimes that is referred to as full time 4WD, but not by purists.
I take one point back, we can lock the wagon's 4-matic in for low speeds only, if conditions are bad.
Most fun I had up to the time I did it: dropping the clutch on the Porsche in our gravel parking lot and marveling at the way it clawed its way forward barely spinning ANY wheel! Scared my wife. ;-).
The Chevy 2500 (3/4 ton, Silverado, 2000 model) has 4WD with what Chev/GMC calls its ACTIVE transfer case option. Means I can leave it in 4WD high all the time since like the aforementioned Euros, it comes in on demand, only. I have however noted a shuddering on turns on dry hard pavement, which I intend to ask the dealer about, but I suspect it is an imperfection in the design. The Benz has that too, but its guilt (with 177K miles) is established--it needs a new transfer case, at many Deutche Marks.
And now for the topic the new guy has been waiting for--the damn tractor...
Ole New Blue, my TN90F, has "traction management". Best I can describe it, it is like the truck--the Italian Delight flicks on 4WD when the rears slip. The option is there to lock it in or out of 4WD, too, but why? I can also electronically lock the differential. Under TM, 4WD also comes in when I apply the brakes and on certain other actions. It cuts OUT when you turn sharply to avoid crab-scuffing or whatever you call it. Works.
Don't the Boomers have this option, also? Sorry to be so wind-dee, but Wen got me thinking, and the smell of wood burning was overpowering the Mac, so I figured to put out the fire with words that will hopefully have traction....
Some "friend" once called me "Mr Toad". Not sure if he was referring to the wind in my willows or the (many) vends for my wheels....
BTW, 2 more stinkweeds bit the dust Saturday.
Jim
PS: There is actually a www site devoted to explaining the technical differences between the various all/4 WD systems, I just cannot find it at the moment. Complex? You got that right!
7/30
Hey Wen & the rest of you restless tractor fanatics of varying colors,
Will you allow me a late comment on what you said about part-time 4wd, etc? Full-time 4WD may not be as rare as you think. Over many years I have gained some experience on the subject with many wheels bought and maintained at great expense. Sigh.
Starting completely off topic, we have a 911 (Carrara 4) & a MB wagon (4-matic), both purchased 10 years ago. Each has what is referred to as ALL-WHEEL drive. It stays active ALL the time, no option, and the % split between the front and rear wheel pairs is controlled by a computer reacting to slippage that the ABS detects. Sometimes that is referred to as full time 4WD, but not by purists.
I take one point back, we can lock the wagon's 4-matic in for low speeds only, if conditions are bad.
Most fun I had up to the time I did it: dropping the clutch on the Porsche in our gravel parking lot and marveling at the way it clawed its way forward barely spinning ANY wheel! Scared my wife. ;-).
The Chevy 2500 (3/4 ton, Silverado, 2000 model) has 4WD with what Chev/GMC calls its ACTIVE transfer case option. Means I can leave it in 4WD high all the time since like the aforementioned Euros, it comes in on demand, only. I have however noted a shuddering on turns on dry hard pavement, which I intend to ask the dealer about, but I suspect it is an imperfection in the design. The Benz has that too, but its guilt (with 177K miles) is established--it needs a new transfer case, at many Deutche Marks.
And now for the topic the new guy has been waiting for--the damn tractor...
Ole New Blue, my TN90F, has "traction management". Best I can describe it, it is like the truck--the Italian Delight flicks on 4WD when the rears slip. The option is there to lock it in or out of 4WD, too, but why? I can also electronically lock the differential. Under TM, 4WD also comes in when I apply the brakes and on certain other actions. It cuts OUT when you turn sharply to avoid crab-scuffing or whatever you call it. Works.
Don't the Boomers have this option, also? Sorry to be so wind-dee, but Wen got me thinking, and the smell of wood burning was overpowering the Mac, so I figured to put out the fire with words that will hopefully have traction....
Some "friend" once called me "Mr Toad". Not sure if he was referring to the wind in my willows or the (many) vends for my wheels....
BTW, 2 more stinkweeds bit the dust Saturday.
Jim
PS: There is actually a www site devoted to explaining the technical differences between the various all/4 WD systems, I just cannot find it at the moment. Complex? You got that right!
W5FL
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Re: 4 x 4 Binding
My background is design engineering and I am not particularly impressed by all of the marketing descriptions that mean nothing or less than nothing to me and wish they would just say what they are doing. Unfortunately, if they did, people would just say what do I need that for.
You have to have 3 differentials to have full time 4WD. Tractors don't have it and don't need full time 4WD. 99% of their life is normally spent where there is some slippage all the time and conventional 4WD works and does it's job well.
Sorry, but GMC and Chevy have more marketeers than engineers. Their products will never set in my Garage. My dad also has a 2000 GMC 3/4 ton and loves it! They have never built a center differtial full time 4WD for a pickup that I am aware of. They must be simply controlling the front hubs and engaging them when they get rear wheel slippage. This is simply 2WD with automatic switching to part time 4WD mode. Much cheaper and much less effective than full time 4WD.
The clunking in a turn is the limited slip differential slipping. That is the way it works. My Jeep does the same thing if you turn sharply.
I just can't imagine a condition where the rears would slip, that I would not already be in 4WD. My problem is not whether to be in 4WD, but how many differential lock pedals to have pushed for traction. I try to put my tractor in 2WD when I pull into the barn on a concrete floor. I get that right about half of the time.
Glad you like your TN90F. Sounds like a very nice tractor.
My background is design engineering and I am not particularly impressed by all of the marketing descriptions that mean nothing or less than nothing to me and wish they would just say what they are doing. Unfortunately, if they did, people would just say what do I need that for.
You have to have 3 differentials to have full time 4WD. Tractors don't have it and don't need full time 4WD. 99% of their life is normally spent where there is some slippage all the time and conventional 4WD works and does it's job well.
Sorry, but GMC and Chevy have more marketeers than engineers. Their products will never set in my Garage. My dad also has a 2000 GMC 3/4 ton and loves it! They have never built a center differtial full time 4WD for a pickup that I am aware of. They must be simply controlling the front hubs and engaging them when they get rear wheel slippage. This is simply 2WD with automatic switching to part time 4WD mode. Much cheaper and much less effective than full time 4WD.
The clunking in a turn is the limited slip differential slipping. That is the way it works. My Jeep does the same thing if you turn sharply.
I just can't imagine a condition where the rears would slip, that I would not already be in 4WD. My problem is not whether to be in 4WD, but how many differential lock pedals to have pushed for traction. I try to put my tractor in 2WD when I pull into the barn on a concrete floor. I get that right about half of the time.
Glad you like your TN90F. Sounds like a very nice tractor.
JimBinMI
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Re: 4 x 4 Binding
Wen,
Regarding the Marketers vs Engineers. I teach Marketing at a secondary school, my curriculum mainly focuses on general marketing/retailing/entrepreneurship. We had a Computer Aided Design teacher a couple of years ago that came from industry, he had been working for GM as a design engineer.
We had a neat conversation one day where he told me that Marketing always won over engineering. If the Marketers wanted something and the engineers said that it couldn't be done they would say "why can't you do it, Ford is doing it?" or "Ford/Chrysler/whoever will be doing it". He said that the Marketers almost always got what they wanted because they knew what people would buy.
Obviously, since I teach the subject I was impressed with this. Did you know that 1/3 of ALL jobs are in Marketing at some level? True! /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif
JimBinMI
We boys and our toys!
Wen,
Regarding the Marketers vs Engineers. I teach Marketing at a secondary school, my curriculum mainly focuses on general marketing/retailing/entrepreneurship. We had a Computer Aided Design teacher a couple of years ago that came from industry, he had been working for GM as a design engineer.
We had a neat conversation one day where he told me that Marketing always won over engineering. If the Marketers wanted something and the engineers said that it couldn't be done they would say "why can't you do it, Ford is doing it?" or "Ford/Chrysler/whoever will be doing it". He said that the Marketers almost always got what they wanted because they knew what people would buy.
Obviously, since I teach the subject I was impressed with this. Did you know that 1/3 of ALL jobs are in Marketing at some level? True! /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif
JimBinMI
We boys and our toys!
MJB
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Re: 4 x 4 Binding
Wen
Chevy and GMC did make a full-time 4x4 center differential truck for several years back in the 1970s. They used an NP203 transfer case and no lock-out hubs, but I believe this was only available with the automatic transmission. This setup was dropped in the aftermath of the oil crunch when the fuel milage became a concern. I think the newer "on demand" 4x4 trucks use an electrically shifted transfer case and central axle disconnect system which is conrtolled by the computer. I can only think of a few instances, like when winter roads are partially snow covered and partially dry, where where I would want full-time 4x4 on a truck. Most of the time all it does is waste fuel and wear out tires and front end parts. For my uses part time 4x4 with a limited slip rear axle is the best setup. This is coming from someone who lives in a heavy winter lake effect snow area (Central New York). We get enough snow here that I have heard it said that we only have two seasons - This winter and next winter./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Wen
Chevy and GMC did make a full-time 4x4 center differential truck for several years back in the 1970s. They used an NP203 transfer case and no lock-out hubs, but I believe this was only available with the automatic transmission. This setup was dropped in the aftermath of the oil crunch when the fuel milage became a concern. I think the newer "on demand" 4x4 trucks use an electrically shifted transfer case and central axle disconnect system which is conrtolled by the computer. I can only think of a few instances, like when winter roads are partially snow covered and partially dry, where where I would want full-time 4x4 on a truck. Most of the time all it does is waste fuel and wear out tires and front end parts. For my uses part time 4x4 with a limited slip rear axle is the best setup. This is coming from someone who lives in a heavy winter lake effect snow area (Central New York). We get enough snow here that I have heard it said that we only have two seasons - This winter and next winter./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif