theg
Bronze Member
I am needing to add additional lights
New Tractor, Must Do's?
- Thread starter Indygunworks
- Start date
Plantation Paul
Silver Member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2017
- Messages
- 132
- Location
- NE Louisiana
- Tractor
- John Deere 5075E John Deere 8310R John Deere 4960 John Deere 4840 John Deere 8630 John Deere 4630 IH Case 485
Fluid ballast in the rear tires and a back hoe? I would think that would be over doing it a bit. Will warranty cover if you use fluid ballast? A friend had the same brand, a bit, older and they had a mechanical failure blamed on too much ballast.
boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,824
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
FEL
FEL + grapple + hooks possibly for chains, makes for lifting and pulling stuff easier.
FEL + general duty bucket + hooks on top (2 to 3 of them)
FEL + general duty bucket + tooth bar possibly if you plan to dig directly with FEL general duty bucket a lot.
front end
front end + grill guard. to stop sticks from poking up into radiator.
front end verify were all your radiators / oil coolers are (radiator for engine, oil cooler for FEL, oil cooler for transmission, oil cooler for 3pt and rear hydrualics) some of these maybe same thing, some times separated.)
under side of tractor
check everything, you will be running through mud and ruts, and possibly tearing something up. get an idea of how things look, before you do something and not sure what it looks like underneath.
3pt hitch
3pt hitch + check chains and sway bar/chains for 3pt hitch.
3pt hitch + quick attach "upside down U", or pat's easy hitch, and/or telescopic lower lift arms
3pt hitch + possibly TNT (replacing turn buckle for top link with hydrualic cylinder, and/or replacing one or both side links with a hydrualic cylinder
3pt hitch + swinging draw bar (located below the PTO shaft, hopefully your tractor has the correct rear end, that has a bar directly below the pto shaft so you can connect ball. to pull a standard generic trailer that you would hook on behind a truck or like. or toss a pin in. to pull a little yard wagon around. IF NOT. """stay straps""" for 3pt hitch. so stupid 3pt hitch does not cause wagon to come loose and come up into your head. stay straps hook to rear of tractor near top link or top link itself and go down to lower lift arms. causing 3pt hitch lower lift arms not to move at all.
ammo box for a tool box. find a spot to mount it ((ammo box = the latch on them and hing that makes them more important on a tractor. a regular tool box even metal tool box will fall apart, ammo boxes much better))
tires
tires + filled with fluid (check manual it may or may not recommend filling tires with fluid, (more so with backhoe) sometimes they will state do not load front tires with fluid at all, but ok to fill rear tires)
tires + chains
tires + wider stance = on many tractors you remove both rear tires, and swap them side for side, and you gain a couple more inches of width for stability. the rim is not perfectly centered, and in that allows you to either get a shorter width in rear or a longer width in rear. swapping side to side is so you keep same tread direction.
tires + rear tires = lower pressure in them (check manual for recommended pressure levels), many folks run down to 12 to 15 PSI, the low pressure = more traction, softer ride. if backhoe is on, more than likely you will need to raise the pressure in rear tires.
tires + front tires = high pressure in them (check manual for recommended pressure levels), FEL work most likely going to require high pressure in front tires, so tires do not pop off the rims.
backhoe
backhoe + thumb = done already
backhoe + bucket + hook on rear of bucket. to hook a chain to.
backhoe + bucket = 8" to 10" width = trench bucket + possibly removable teeth
backhoe + bucket = 12" to 24" = digging large holes for say a pond / in ground pool + teeth
backhoe + ripper, if digging out a lot of tree stumps
high above work lights, both front and back mounted to ROPS (roll bar). the FEL + grapel or bucket = lights become in effective in front, rear lights for backhoe and general use at night and unhooking stuff, and loading stuff up and put back in shed.
================
check your hydraulic fluids every couple hours. initially depends on who and how they filled everything up. generally you need to work the hydrualic cylinders to work the oil into them. so with that check your fluid levels. to make sure you are not running on empty.
get a grease gun, and become "dumb founded" with all the grease zerks. between FEL, Grapple, tractor, backhoe. you will be walking around tractor min 2 times and possibly 3 to 4 times finding additional grease zerks to hit. and you most likely will need to move the FEL, and backhoe. to find some additional spots on them, that you were not able to see first couple times around.
=============
looks like "3pt rear blade", and/or "3pt box blade", and/or "land plain / grader scrapper" will be in your future purchase (tend to see many folks having 2 of them. not all 3, but a mix and match of the 3 to get all the major areas covered of what the equipment can do).
see about a 3pt carry all, or 3pt pallet forks. for creating your own custom mini trailer per say or custom tool box on a pallet, for doing what ever on the property.
chains get some good grade chains, and then buy some nylon rope or like and weave through the links. if chains ever brake, the rope helps keep the chains from becoming a deadly whip and killing you.
110v or like pressure washer to help clean tractor.
leaf blower and/or 100 gallon air compressor with blow gun. to help clean grass / leaves / etc... off the equipment. large tank so you can let the tank fill up and then take 10 minutes blowing stuff out with messing around waiting for tank to fill back up with enough pressure to blow stuff away.
grease gun, hand pump here, some folks want battery operated grease gun, some want 110v or 12v grease gun. remember to twist the end that goes over grease zerk to either get on/off. myself prefer a flex hose on the end with a couple feet of hose. so i can get grease zerk on. and then have enough wiggle room to pump the grease gun.
do not play "RAM ROD" and beat everything to death in fastest time possible, take it easy and slow. more so with chains / cables. but also goes for FEL and backhoe and other equipment.
learn how the HST works. to high of gear can cause transmission to over heat. use your low gears, and slowly work your way up to higher gears. so you have an idea. of were and when to shift up/down. to gain your most speed pending on capabilities / load on tractor.
finishing mower, rotatory mower, tiller = operate at RPM speed suggested for 540 RPM's at PTO. everything else, you can back down the RPM's and find your sweet spot of how fast you want to move/work and ability of the machine.
learn when and when not to use use the 4x4 / MFWD of tractor. 2WD works most of the times.
learn how to use SPLIT rear brakes if tractor has them. and how to turn sharper in grass/mud/rock.
FEL + grapple + hooks possibly for chains, makes for lifting and pulling stuff easier.
FEL + general duty bucket + hooks on top (2 to 3 of them)
FEL + general duty bucket + tooth bar possibly if you plan to dig directly with FEL general duty bucket a lot.
front end
front end + grill guard. to stop sticks from poking up into radiator.
front end verify were all your radiators / oil coolers are (radiator for engine, oil cooler for FEL, oil cooler for transmission, oil cooler for 3pt and rear hydrualics) some of these maybe same thing, some times separated.)
under side of tractor
check everything, you will be running through mud and ruts, and possibly tearing something up. get an idea of how things look, before you do something and not sure what it looks like underneath.
3pt hitch
3pt hitch + check chains and sway bar/chains for 3pt hitch.
3pt hitch + quick attach "upside down U", or pat's easy hitch, and/or telescopic lower lift arms
3pt hitch + possibly TNT (replacing turn buckle for top link with hydrualic cylinder, and/or replacing one or both side links with a hydrualic cylinder
3pt hitch + swinging draw bar (located below the PTO shaft, hopefully your tractor has the correct rear end, that has a bar directly below the pto shaft so you can connect ball. to pull a standard generic trailer that you would hook on behind a truck or like. or toss a pin in. to pull a little yard wagon around. IF NOT. """stay straps""" for 3pt hitch. so stupid 3pt hitch does not cause wagon to come loose and come up into your head. stay straps hook to rear of tractor near top link or top link itself and go down to lower lift arms. causing 3pt hitch lower lift arms not to move at all.
ammo box for a tool box. find a spot to mount it ((ammo box = the latch on them and hing that makes them more important on a tractor. a regular tool box even metal tool box will fall apart, ammo boxes much better))
tires
tires + filled with fluid (check manual it may or may not recommend filling tires with fluid, (more so with backhoe) sometimes they will state do not load front tires with fluid at all, but ok to fill rear tires)
tires + chains
tires + wider stance = on many tractors you remove both rear tires, and swap them side for side, and you gain a couple more inches of width for stability. the rim is not perfectly centered, and in that allows you to either get a shorter width in rear or a longer width in rear. swapping side to side is so you keep same tread direction.
tires + rear tires = lower pressure in them (check manual for recommended pressure levels), many folks run down to 12 to 15 PSI, the low pressure = more traction, softer ride. if backhoe is on, more than likely you will need to raise the pressure in rear tires.
tires + front tires = high pressure in them (check manual for recommended pressure levels), FEL work most likely going to require high pressure in front tires, so tires do not pop off the rims.
backhoe
backhoe + thumb = done already
backhoe + bucket + hook on rear of bucket. to hook a chain to.
backhoe + bucket = 8" to 10" width = trench bucket + possibly removable teeth
backhoe + bucket = 12" to 24" = digging large holes for say a pond / in ground pool + teeth
backhoe + ripper, if digging out a lot of tree stumps
high above work lights, both front and back mounted to ROPS (roll bar). the FEL + grapel or bucket = lights become in effective in front, rear lights for backhoe and general use at night and unhooking stuff, and loading stuff up and put back in shed.
================
check your hydraulic fluids every couple hours. initially depends on who and how they filled everything up. generally you need to work the hydrualic cylinders to work the oil into them. so with that check your fluid levels. to make sure you are not running on empty.
get a grease gun, and become "dumb founded" with all the grease zerks. between FEL, Grapple, tractor, backhoe. you will be walking around tractor min 2 times and possibly 3 to 4 times finding additional grease zerks to hit. and you most likely will need to move the FEL, and backhoe. to find some additional spots on them, that you were not able to see first couple times around.
=============
looks like "3pt rear blade", and/or "3pt box blade", and/or "land plain / grader scrapper" will be in your future purchase (tend to see many folks having 2 of them. not all 3, but a mix and match of the 3 to get all the major areas covered of what the equipment can do).
see about a 3pt carry all, or 3pt pallet forks. for creating your own custom mini trailer per say or custom tool box on a pallet, for doing what ever on the property.
chains get some good grade chains, and then buy some nylon rope or like and weave through the links. if chains ever brake, the rope helps keep the chains from becoming a deadly whip and killing you.
110v or like pressure washer to help clean tractor.
leaf blower and/or 100 gallon air compressor with blow gun. to help clean grass / leaves / etc... off the equipment. large tank so you can let the tank fill up and then take 10 minutes blowing stuff out with messing around waiting for tank to fill back up with enough pressure to blow stuff away.
grease gun, hand pump here, some folks want battery operated grease gun, some want 110v or 12v grease gun. remember to twist the end that goes over grease zerk to either get on/off. myself prefer a flex hose on the end with a couple feet of hose. so i can get grease zerk on. and then have enough wiggle room to pump the grease gun.
do not play "RAM ROD" and beat everything to death in fastest time possible, take it easy and slow. more so with chains / cables. but also goes for FEL and backhoe and other equipment.
learn how the HST works. to high of gear can cause transmission to over heat. use your low gears, and slowly work your way up to higher gears. so you have an idea. of were and when to shift up/down. to gain your most speed pending on capabilities / load on tractor.
finishing mower, rotatory mower, tiller = operate at RPM speed suggested for 540 RPM's at PTO. everything else, you can back down the RPM's and find your sweet spot of how fast you want to move/work and ability of the machine.
learn when and when not to use use the 4x4 / MFWD of tractor. 2WD works most of the times.
learn how to use SPLIT rear brakes if tractor has them. and how to turn sharper in grass/mud/rock.
Redlands Okie
Veteran Member
Boggen i admire that list 
BrokeFarmerJohn
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2016
- Messages
- 2,231
- Location
- Columbus Ohio
- Tractor
- 2017 Mahindra 5555, John Blue G-1000, Massey Ferguson 98, John Deere GP
Here's my list
1. Pay the tractor off.
2. Don't break anything on tractor till it's at least paid off.
3. Dream about not having a tractor payment while owning a tractor.
1. Pay the tractor off.
2. Don't break anything on tractor till it's at least paid off.
3. Dream about not having a tractor payment while owning a tractor.