new tractor, new board, advice?

[Cocre]

Welcome Semipro.

I have 9+ acres of hilly wooded land, and looked at a few new major (and minor) brands and models before I came across a slightly used (185 hours) 2006 John Deere 3320 in late summer of last year. I have put 130 additional hours on it and can say I am well pleased. One of the better features of this model of Deere is the ergonomics, the seating arrangement is nigh on perfect.

This 3320 with R4 tires can feel a bit tippy; at least when compared to my old wide-hind-end AG tired Ford 8N, but wheel spacers can be had to ease the pain.

I have the 300x loader with a quick detach bucket. I think the 300cx loader has the skid-steer quick detach. I do not have a tractor mounted wood splitter, but my unit came with the power beyond hydraulics installed to run the backhoe, plus a third control valve can be had for less than $300. It has dual hydraulic pumps, one for the power steering and one for the implements.

The 3320 is ~33 hp and the eHydro (HST) has 25 PTO hp. I do so love the dual pedal HST with dual brake pedals on the opposite side. It has a folding ROPS. The unit is assembled in America (Augusta, Georgia) from a combination of Japanese, American, Canadian, Chinese and parts unknown parts.

I do not have a mower, but I do have the 447 backhoe, the 300x FEL, a 5 ft brush hog, a 5 ft tiller, a 6 ft box blade, a middle buster, and a couple of other things sitting in the woods. So far I have no complaints.

I would advise you to go sit on the seats of several brands, test drive them, and buy the one that best meets your needs. I bought the Deere primarily because I got much more in the used tractor than I could have gotten in a new unit for the money I had available to spend. At the time I had no brand preference, but my blood now runs green.

 

[LarryD]

This is a great board. Thanks for all the great advice. Individual responses to your posts are below.

LarryD, why might 2 hydraulic connects be needed on the back? I'm not sure how they'd be used. A box blade doesn't need one right? 5 ft. sounds right on the Bush Hog. I need to maneuver through trees.

JoelD, I have to admint I'm tired of shopping. I'm ready to get to work. I've wanted a tractor for 10 years.. I'm getting real tired of my shovel and wheel barrow and seem to fall more behind every day.

Andy

You don't need two hydraulic connections at the rear, you can get off the tractor and spend time adjusting the agressivness of the digging blade or change the angle of the cut for drainage like me ,or do both these things from the seat. Although I only work my gravel drive a couple times a year, everytime I do I swear I'm going to get top-n-tilt before I do it again. It also gives you the option of a post driver or other hydraulic driven implements. Think of Harley rake to windrow rocks on your property.

As far as being tired of using a wheel barrow, I used a riding mower and a wagon or two years before the tractor. DON'T DELAY...get a 30ish hp tractor and you'll never regret it.

Larry

 

[dodge man]

I don't think I saw anybody say anything about filling the rear tires with fluid. That can help the stability some. Alot of tractors allow the rear tires to be set out wider, that might be a function you would like to have.

One thing you didn't mention was a budget. For what your are talking about buying and all the implements, it would be easy to spend $40,000 in a hurry.

Can't speak for any of the other brands, but is sounds like a B series Kubota would be what you are looking for. I agree with the others, try a couple out, dirve them around on the dealers parking lot as see if one seems better to you. Look at the controls for all the implements and see how they fit you.

Most improtant, tell us what you buy and why and post pictures.

 

[dodge man]

I'll also echos Larrys thoughts, I used a wheel barrow and shovel, and some times a wagon behind my riding mower for 10 years. I maintain about 3 acres and thats alot of work for all the various projects I have done over the years. I bought a Kubota BX2350 last year, and my only regret, not buying one sooner.

Now I don't use my wheel barrow and pull behind trailer at all. I don't use my walk behind snow blower either. I always drag a shovel out when I'm doing dirt work or gravel work, and have found it usually lays on the ground all day and rarely gets touched.

A friend of mine said having a tractor is like having a helper all the time. He is wrong, its more like having 2 helpers all day, maybe 3.

 

[Gittyup]

Isn't there also a Kioti dealer near Princeton? I'd definite try to check out Kioti. Heavy and stable, good value, strong hydraulics.

Also, would give Branson a look. Very heavy and wide, with a super strong loader.

Those hills in SWVa are pretty steep. Be careful. Definitely get the loaded tires.

Might want to reconsider the midmount mower for a rear finish mower due to price and ease of on/off.

While burning is a drag, chipping will flat out wear you out. It's hard work. A chipper that will efficiently produce a large number of chips might take a little more than 30 HP HST. I'd go at least a few more hp for that reason.

Can't have too many hydraulic remotes. I have one set of rears. Just bought a 3ph fork with it's own hydraulic high lift. Need 2 sets and a hydraulic toplink to use it to full capabilities. For blading, two sets lets you raise and angle from the seat of the tractor.

Lot of good tractors out there from many makers. Hard to really go wrong.

 

[teg]

"...Seems like I'll need at least 30 HP at the PTO if I want to chip good sized branches..." What size are you talking about? Anything over 4" is firewood. I think you can do with a lot less HP and still chip stuff up. My tractor is 23 pto hp and it doesn't even know the chipper / shredder is even back there. Make sure to play (err, test) out *everything* on the tractor. Have them (or you) mount stuff on the 3ph. Also, let us know the quote for the tractors you are looking at... a few have been coming in really high lately.

 

[slewisma]

Welcome to TractorByNet, I found this place invaluable when learning about and buying my BX24. I'm on 3 acres and work only about 2 of them. One steep hill between upper and lower yard but otherwise nothing too scary. 1,200' driveway, mostly dirt and gravel. Not exactly the same as you're situation so you'll probably find a CUT better than a SCUT for your needs.

One area I'd suggest re-thinking is when to go tractor/PTO based and when to just tow something else around. The chipper/shredder is the best example. $3,000+ vs $2,000- for about the same capacity is a big difference.

I've never been able to make the math work on PTO powered chippers. A standalone chipper with its own engine and ability to handle brush is a lot less money. And, I agree with the other poster that said 4" or larger is firewood. Even 2-3" makes pretty good starter for the fire if there's not too much small stuff to trim off it.

There are several PTO attachments that I'd love to own but for which the math doesn't work. Basically, if it doesn't need the tractor to move it to use it, the standalone is the better deal for me. It needs to have wheels and a way to hitch it to the tractor to get to the work area though (or fit in the FEL / on the forks).

Tractor mounted blade, FEL, BH, tiller, middle-buster, disc, boxblade all make sense to me. I don't need 'em all but if I did they'd go on the tractor for obvious reasons.

Generator, Chipper / Shredder cost too much for a tractor / PTO version -- how come it is so much more $$ to not buy yet another engine?

Some things are on the edge for me like a snowblower. I want the one on the tractor. I can get by just fine with the one I walk behind (unless I fire the guy that plows the unpaved part of the driveway).

Good luck with your search. My advice is to buy from the closest dealer that has a great reputation and good prices. To a certain extent, let that guide your brand choice. You'll be glad you did.

 

[Gittyup]

I have 21 PTO hp and can chip up to about 5" just fine. But, I sure wouldn't want to be using it to make my own chips. If you want to chip fast, like to make your own mulch, bedding, etc., then you might want more HP and a chipper with a hydraulic power feed and a power discharge. These take power away from the chipping. More hp and better hydraulics make it so that it can run at top speed all the time. It you are just getting rid of brush, slower is fine.

However, if you are working alone, 30 hp might be good enough. You'd probably have a hard time keeping up with it working by yourself. Makes me tires just thinking about it. Got a good sized pile waiting on me to chip. But, it can just wait...... and wait some more.

 

[Gittyup]

It has not been my experience that self powered chippers of EQUAL quality cost less than PTO driven versions. For example Goossen makes the same chipper self powered and PTO driven. Self powered is more expensive.

I like the PTO drive because of less maintenance. Especially, if there are times when you let the thing sit for several months or so between uses. With today's crappy gasoline, the gas powered unit that sits unused a lot is at risk of carb. problems. Of course, you can maintenance start it, treat the gas, and do all that extra work just to keep it in good running condition. With the PTO units, as long as it's dry and out of the sun, it can sit for years without doing anything. Then, when you need it, just hook it up and go to work. It is also more compact on transport and stores in less space.

To the contrary, some of the same arguments for gas power splitters apply for chippers too. The self powered units let you use the tractor for other things while the chipper is busy doing its chore.

 

[putt_putt_green]

Someone earlier mentioned filling your tires. You could also partial fill your tires with something non corrosive like rim guard. This would move your center of gravity lower without adding excess weight which would be counter production for mowing grass. I read this somewhere, and have not tried it myself.

A problem with wheel spacers, is it might drive your minimum implement size up. Wheel spacers on my JD3520 would mean I would not cover the tracks with 5' implements.