new/used/rebuilt engine needed for JD 4100

[coloradotrout]

I have a 211 millermatic and I love it (thank god for the autoset) but I sometimes find it a little small for bigger attachment projects.

Thoughts on Hobart 190?

 

[coloradotrout]

Thoughts on Hobart 190?

Picked one up for good price.

 

[coloradotrout]

Moved the Deere shroud to center over the fan. 1" down. 0.5" left. Go figure. Fit pretty well, but still tripped temp sensor after 45 minutes. At idle it cools back down. Plan to move fan further into shroud. The Deere was further in. Hope this is really a shroud issue.

 

[coloradotrout]

Swapped out to use the original Deere pulley, spacer, and fan. Realized the Deere pulley is smaller diameter (means it will spin faster). Spacer also places the fan nearly 100% inside the shroud. Didn't want to remove the radiator, so had to loosen trans oil cooler lines and finagle things around to get the fan swapped (had to blindly remove/install bolts) and get shroud in-place. Need to post some pics, but imagine the shroud lowered 1" and moved to the left 1/2". Had to make cutouts on the bottom right for hose, and drill 2 holes on bottom for bolts, and make some hold down brackets for the top. All this to use the water pump that came with the engine (but Deere pump was damaged and new one is $400).

After all this, ran it hard for 2h and no overheat lamp. Checked with infrared thermometer near sensor. 180F at most. Generally 150-170.

Still got front crank seal leak and see if the included hydraulic pump is comparable (Kanzaki PW1-C-6A on replacement; PW1-C-9A on Deere)

 

[dfkrug]

It is gonna be hard to try to replace front seal without removing radiator.

Anyway, the hyd pump needs to be similar in displacement to the OEM, and the shaft has to be exactly the same. Also, CW or CCW rotation is important. If you do not have specs on either unit, you can measure displacement by taking pumps apart and calculating. Do an internet search to see exactly how.

All this assumes the same pump TYPE. I.E. is it a 2-chamber pump, aka dual pump?

 

[coloradotrout]

Yeah, for the front crank seal have to pull the radiator, probably trans cooler lines. It would have made a lot of sense to do my shroud rework AND this at the same time, but I really wanted to get it running to check out the engine.

As for the hydraulic pump, it's the same brand, looks identical, but has those different numbers on it. The Deere is PW1-C-9A. The one I have now is PW1-C-6A.

 

[coloradotrout]

Hi all. Quick update. Been running mostly OK for a good week know. Going to attempt the front crank seal replacement tonight. Got all the front end clear - radiator and hydro cooler coil. Fabricating my own pulley puller to get into the tight space. Coolant was looking nasty anyway, so a change is good. Also cooler hoses - all 6" of them on each side, need to be replaced. Thusfar I've run it pretty hard. Mowing in thick grass (like 4' high stuff) and up and down steep inclines (backing up those steep ones), and running a 5' tiller on pretty hard-packed arena soil. Side note: that 5' tiller is just too much for the JD4100 17HP. It's ok in loose soil, but not for my clay. I may try to remove some tines and see if 4' of coverage is workable. I'd should have gotten the 4' tiller, but *thought* the 5' would cover my tracks better. It does, but at 0.001 mph as the penalty. After I adjusted the fan shroud I've had the temp sensor go off once - while tilling - and after a few mins of idle, it was fine. I went back to work again. Not sure what that was about, but as I noted the coolant is pretty dirty, so maybe a flush will help. I'd like to fabricate an entirely new shroud with the offset fan that I have now. As is, there are some gaps around the edge and bottom that don't force the air to pull through the fins.

I also have - since forever - a tiny leak on the hydraulic pump line, the smaller one, right at the pump. Flirting with brazing. We'll see.

Here's to getting the front crank seal replaced tonight.

 

[coloradotrout]

I never replied. Crank seal was a breeze. Using the homemade puller I did not have to pull the engine, just clear the radiator and other front end parts. Dug out old seal; tapped in new. Been working since Oct 2020.

Now I'd really like to fix the drip leak on the hydro line right at the pump. Guess I'd have to partially clear the line and do some brazing (never had done). Guess I may just buy trans oil.

 

[sandman2234]

Glad the seal change went without a hitch! Brazing takes a steady hand and a little bit of practice, so grab something similar to that pipe before you try that pipe!
David from jax