Newbie in NC with Ford 8N

[jpsheb]

Hello all,

I am new to the site and living in Mebane, NC. I have a Ford 8N (1948 or 49, I believe). I've had this tractor for about a year and kept it running (mostly!). However, I have all sorts of questions about it!

Although it runs most of the time, I often have electrical issues. Usually these involve the starter turning the engine over and over, but no ignition. This often happens after the tractor has been running for an hour or more. Often, this wasn't a problem, as the tractor "diesels" when fully warmed up, requiring the choke to shut down. In the past, this electrical problem has simply gone away after letting the tractor cool down.

Anyone else have this issue?

The ID number on the left (port-side) of the transmission is 312476. Is this the VIN?

I'd upload a pic, but it requires a URL--which I don't have. I'll set it as my avatar, though.


I look forward to talking to you all!
-Jack

 

[Muhammad]

Welcome to TBN.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Hello all,

I am new to the site and living in Mebane, NC. I have a Ford 8N (1948 or 49, I believe). I've had this tractor for about a year and kept it running (mostly!). However, I have all sorts of questions about it!

Although it runs most of the time, I often have electrical issues. Usually these involve the starter turning the engine over and over, but no ignition. This often happens after the tractor has been running for an hour or more. Often, this wasn't a problem, as the tractor "diesels" when fully warmed up, requiring the choke to shut down. In the past, this electrical problem has simply gone away after letting the tractor cool down.

Anyone else have this issue?

The ID number on the left (port-side) of the transmission is 312476. Is this the VIN?

I'd upload a pic, but it requires a URL--which I don't have. I'll set it as my avatar, though.


I look forward to talking to you all!
-Jack

:welcome: to TBN! I have heard about that problem with the 8n's before but don't currently have a diagnosis. Glad to have you a part of the forum. :thumbsup:

 

[Briana03]

Hey jpsheb! Welcome to TractorByNet! I have moved your thread to the Ford/New Holland Owning/Operating Forum. You will have better luck finding assistance there. :thumbsup:

 

[Jerry/MT]

Hello all,

I am new to the site and living in Mebane, NC. I have a Ford 8N (1948 or 49, I believe). I've had this tractor for about a year and kept it running (mostly!). However, I have all sorts of questions about it!

Although it runs most of the time, I often have electrical issues. Usually these involve the starter turning the engine over and over, but no ignition. This often happens after the tractor has been running for an hour or more. Often, this wasn't a problem, as the tractor "diesels" when fully warmed up, requiring the choke to shut down. In the past, this electrical problem has simply gone away after letting the tractor cool down.

Anyone else have this issue?

The ID number on the left (port-side) of the transmission is 312476. Is this the VIN?

I'd upload a pic, but it requires a URL--which I don't have. I'll set it as my avatar, though.


I look forward to talking to you all!
-Jack

I need some more info about your tractor. Is it in the electrical system in the OEM configuration(6V with generator, front mount distributor or side mount, etc) or has it been changed to a 12 V with alternator?

Your description sounds like you have possibly two issue; poor spark and maladjusted carb.

A better place to look for help is Antique Tractors - Yesterday's Tractors : Antique Tractor Headquarters and click on the Ford N Forum.

 

[jpsheb]

I need some more info about your tractor. Is it in the electrical system in the OEM configuration(6V with generator, front mount distributor or side mount, etc) or has it been changed to a 12 V with alternator?

Your description sounds like you have possibly two issue; poor spark and maladjusted carb.

It's been converted to 12-V with an alternator (front left side). I am getting no-spark. I''ve checked the cable coming out of the coil with a timing light and it shows nothing is coming out. I figure this must either be the coil (which doesn't have a resistor hooked up and gets very hot when starting) or the condensor, or points/rotor. I've tried cleaning the points and am about to run a hot line straight from the battery to the coil to double check. If that doesn't do anything, then I'll probably buy a new coil and distributor. Any suggestions for a 12V coil with built-in resistor?

 

[Caliche]

" gets very hot when starting" and "am about to run a hot line straight from the battery to the coil"

Sounds like you already have a straight line. The points and capacitor sound suspect. Replace capacitor and points, gap correctly, check spark plug gaps, and set timing. Then you have a good starting point.

 

[Jerry/MT]

It's been converted to 12-V with an alternator (front left side). I am getting no-spark. I''ve checked the cable coming out of the coil with a timing light and it shows nothing is coming out. I figure this must either be the coil (which doesn't have a resistor hooked up and gets very hot when starting) or the condensor, or points/rotor. I've tried cleaning the points and am about to run a hot line straight from the battery to the coil to double check. If that doesn't do anything, then I'll probably buy a new coil and distributor. Any suggestions for a 12V coil with built-in resistor?

When you change the electrical system from 6V to 12v, you need to either put more resistance into the primary ignition circuit to limit the current( you double it by going to 12 V) with a resistor or you need to change the coil out to a real 12 volt coil.

A a real 12v coil will test out with a resistance of ~3.2 ohms on the primary side. If you don't reduce the primary current, the coil will overheat and short out after ~30 to 45 minutes of operation To check for a good spark, pull a plug wire off a plug, put a paper clip in the boot so that it contacts the conductor, hold it near a good ground and try to start. (MAKE SURE THE TRACTOR IS NOT GEAR TO AVOID BEING RUN OVER IF THE TRACTOR STARTS UP ON THREE CYLINDERS!)You should see a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, the color of lightning. If you don't, make sure that your points are adjusted properly and you have battery voltage to battery side of the coil WHEN THE POINTS ARE CLOSED.

.

 

[Soundguy]

most of the new 12v square coils I've tested are only 2.5 ohm.. thus still need the oem resistor inline with them

I'd agree with the others.. get a new non melted coil, points and condensor..

I'd also check that alternator.. if it is a 3 wire job, and you have no isolation in the line to #1, the excite line.. then it isn't ieseling.. its the alt backfeeding the ignition. addition of a 194 lamp in the line from the key to the #1 on the alt will solve that problem.

choking to kill is slowly ruining the engine.. kinda like slapping a baby to make it stop crying. works eventually.. and not a great idea.

also.. I'd reccomend a hotter plug if you are using oem range. IE.. go to a autolite 437 or a chanpion h12, and not a h1, al 216, or alc7 like the dealer will want to sell.


soundguy

 

[jpsheb]

Just an update:
First, I have been going all along thinking this was an 8N, but that was my greenhorn foolishness. It's actually a 641!

Regarding the ignition, I replaced the coil with one that needs no external resistance--also replaced the points, plugs (w/ hotter ones), and cap, and we are good!

I have only stopped it 3-times with clutch, but thanks for the advice--I won't do that again. I suppose in the short term, I can just shut the fuel off (will that hurt anything?). I've been told that the problem is likely due to carbon in the cylinders, which hold the heat and act like a glow-plug to cause the engine to appear to diesel. It's never done this in the winter, so maybe that's the issue!