Newbie Wondering if Dealer Gave me Bad Advise

[Dan_Martin]

I'm a newbie posting for the first time and need some advice regarding what my dealer told me. In the near future I will be purchasing an L3130 (HST with Ag tires), FEL (LA 723 Quick Attach), and a Woods 60 inch rotary cutter. My main purpose will be mowing 12 acres of field/pasture (mostly flat with no obstacles), keeping my driveway clear of snow, and the many other uses I will find for FEL work. Not heavy work, mostly light-duty stuff. I asked my dealer if I should have my rear tires filled. He told me no. He said whenever I am doing FEL work I would need to have the rotary cutter attached for stability, but he recommends NOT filling the tires because it gives the operator the choice when he wants extra ballast and when he doesn't. His reasons were as follows:

1. The L3130 is heavy enough without adding extra weight to the tires which I would need when doing FEL work. Hanging a box blade or my rotary cutter off the back gives me the extra weight I need when doing FEL work while allowing me to remove the extra weight when I really don't need it.
2. The liquid they put in (a salt solution) is quite corrosive to tire rims.
3. The spraying liquid poses a dangerous situation to the operator if he gets a flat tire.
4. Extra cost involved for filling tires.

His reasoning seemed to make sense to me, but from reading the many posts on this forum, it sounded like most people have their rear tires filled. Will I find it a hassle to always have a box blade or rotary cutter attached when using the FEL? Will I experience traction problems? And if I do, wouldn't a set of tractor chains solve the problem? Am I missing something obvious due to my inexperience?

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Bad advice? No. But nothing with advice is ever perfect. YOU said the FEL work is light work, given that point, his advice would fit YOUR situation. You do need counter balance on a tractor when using the FEL, to get the maximum capacity out of the FEL, then you would probably need more weight than the rotary cutter alone. However, by your own description, his advice is not bad. I have one tractor that has loaded tires. I have one that does NOT have loaded tires. Both have FELs on them. But the tractors are used for some different purposes. It is MORE CONVENIENT to have loaded tires but it is not wrong not to.

BTW, welcome to TBN.

Also, if you change your mind later, you can fill the tires yourself with windshield solvent or have him fill them, there are several different solutions available for filling tires. Can't get around the cost issue. Please don't use automotive anti-freeze, it is very toxic to kids & pets and a tablespoon of it will kill a dog as large as a german shepard.

 

[Pks]

Welcome to TBN.

FWIW:
Consider using a 72 inch rotary cutter. With your horsepower I expect the larger size might not handle 4 foot tall heavy grass. But I *know* it will handle 2 foot tall heavy grass.

My 72 inch does and it's on the back of a B2400 which has 18 hp on the PTO. My cutter is a 3 spindle finish mower not a true rotary cutter where the blade is fastened to a disk so the blade can pivot.

Maybe someone else knows: does the rotary cutter require more hp than a same size finish mower?

 

[HammerFour]

I don't have the rear tires filled on my Kubota and never have a problem using the FEL. I just make sure the box blade is on the back if I am doing any more than very light work and have no problems at all. I don't want filled tires as I use this tractor a lot for mowing pastures and don't want the additional compaction if I don't need it.

 

[btolle]

According to the Kubota website the 3130 can handle a 72" rear finish mower. With 12 acres I would want a 6' rotary cutter. That gives you a 20% wider cut with each pass, that's 20% less time to cut the 12 acres.

You can always cut a swath less than 6' if an area is extra thick or tall and then go back to the 6' swath for the normal stuff.

Bill Tolle

 

[Dargo]

I have the LA853 loader on my 5030HSTC and with my box blade or 6' rotary cutter I can do as heavy of work as my loader will handle without any problems and I don't have the rear tires filled. The LA853 loader is much stronger than the LA723, I had the 723 on a 4310HSTC. So, based on my experience with the Kubota L series tractor, I see no use in loading the rear tires unless you want to do loader work without any implement on the rear. Then, I doubt that loaded rear tires would be enough, and you would still have to add an implement. I'd have to agree with the advice given to you.

 

[fjblair]

I am also a newbie and I have the same tractor and FEL as you do.(just delivered Monday). Most of my work will also be pretty light duty stuff although my mowing is only 3-4 acres. My dealer recommended loaded tires and that is what I have. I do live in the mountains so maybe that was a factor in his recommendation.

 

[RonR]

Welcome!

First, I agree that you might want to get a bigger mower. Cutting 12 acres with a 60" will take a lONG time.

I personally wouldn't do loader work with my mower out back and try not to with the tiller on. I usually try to get the box blade on it. If you mess up (not that anyone ever does!) and back into a tree, you don't want to crush a tiller or mower. A box blade weighs about the same and will still function if bashed.

Loading the tires can be done later, if you need it.

Have fun!
ron

 

[4x4sche]

1) Get a 72" mower.
2) Don't load the tires, you will make ruts in your grass.
3) Get a concrete block for rear ballast. I have 800 lbs and it fits close into the tractor on the 3 point hitch. It cost under $200 but you can make your own for much less.

 

[jim_wilson]

Your dealer is correct on a few things but there are also things he did not mention to you. If you load the tires on the tractor you are adding a significant amount of weight that cannot easily be removed. This weight however sits as low down on the tractor as you can possibly get so it contributes not only to having weight on the rear of the tractor for counterbalancing the FEL but also contributes to tractor stability if you are on uneven ground or have the tractor off level (tilted side to side). Having a heavy weight hanging off the back of the tractor - like an implement - may actually contribute to the tractor being unstable side to side depending on the situation. Extra weight in the tires helps to offset this tendency. If you truly need a counterweight that is removable and is the most versatile get a weight box and fill it with concrete, old lead wheel balancing weights, anything that is heavy. Keep it as low on the 3pt as possible when doing the FEL work - especially on uneven ground.
As far as the actual liquid you can put in tires he did not quite tell you the whole story. There is a whole range of different options, water, antifreeze, windshield washer fluid, calcium chloride, and RimGuard. Calcium chloride is what he was talking about - that and Rimguard are the best options for getting the most specific weight per volume and for not freezing. He is right about the calcium chloride corroding the rims - it also kills plants if it leaks. Rimguard - also called 'beet juice' is non toxic, does not corrode rims, and has a high weight to volume ratio. I have it in my tractor and it has leaked - just wash it off with water and no problem. It is a better option than the calcium chloride in my opinion. Many dealers do not know about it though so maybe you have to educate him.