WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO REMOVE VALVE COVER & SET VALVES......I'VE GOT SPECS JUST WOULD LIKE ANY TIME SAVING & KNUCKLE SAVING REMEDIES I.E.STEPS TO KEEP FROM SCREWING UP MENTALLY AS WELL AS MECHANICLY...
...ANY HELP WILL BE MOST APPRECIATED.
Mine is a 304. One of the biggest problems I was going to have was rotating the engine to get the cam to various positions. Fortunately, my main pulley has a groove that has no belt in it. So I got my trusty Harbor Freight v-belt pulley wrench, and I was able to put the engine anywhere I wanted it.
It looks just like this one, but I didn't pay near that much for it. And that thing saved me recently on my Subaru timing belt job since I was able to hold that wrench with my left hand, and loosen and then re-tighten the pulley bolt all by myself.
V-BELT WRENCH PULLEY LOCKING TOOLS (1901A)
Another tip, there seems to be right much slop in the little caps and rods, etc in the valve linkage, so be sure to tighten the lifters until you have right descent drag on the feeler gauge. Also, get mechanics gloves to wear if you don't have them already...some of the stuff under there can be sort of sharp.
Another tip...do head bold re-torque first. On mine, If I recall correctly, I had to actually remove the cam to get to all the bolts, though yours might be different. If that is true for you, be sure to understand where the cam gets oil, and make sure those paths are all clean. I was right outside my garage, so I blasted a bit of air through them and then hit it with my oil can. Make sure none of the bushings that the rocker arms ride on are shifted.
I hope I haven't said too much that is only true for my tractor but not true for yours. I wish you good luck.