Not running, new to me MT372

[Lawson Farms]

I just picked up a new to me mt372 with 930 hrs on it. It's not currently running, but the motor will turn over when boosted. It hasn't been started in about 5 years.

A few questions...

I drained all the fuel, then replaced the fuel and filter. I get clean fuel out of the bleeder valve. I broke the lines loose ccx at the injectors, and I'm getting a little bit there, but I would think I should get a pretty good squirt. I've tried to take the lines loose at the injector pump, but the lines want to turn with the nuts, and I don't want to break them.

I can't get it to start on wd40.

I tried towing it in H3, but with the lawn tread tires, I don't get enough grip to turn the motor. When one tire does grip, the opposite tire turns in reverse, is that normal?

I took the rubber air intake hose off the metal tube at the block, and the metal tube is not blocked, but has a ton of oily gunk in there. My next thought was to remove the intake and the valve cover.

Any thoughts on how much fuel I should be getting out the lines at injectors or what to do next?

Thanks in advance.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

You need to bleed your fuel lines.

Mine had sat for a year or two before I got it and it took a while until I figured out that fuel was not moving even after cleaning the filter etc.

I also had to bypass the ignition and manually heat the glow plugs (owner had passed and the family could not find the keys.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

If you have a set of line wrenches, get one that will fit around the line head to hold it (a second person will help here) as the line should fit in the line gap and use a impact driver to loosen the bolt head (the hammer type not air).

Basically you are using the line wrench to apply the counter-resistance to the heavy collar of the line head. If I were to guess, it is probably paint holding them together.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

If you're getting smoke out the exhaust you're getting fuel. It should be pretty thick smoke, such that you can't see through it. If you're not getting that then it's back to bleeding as mentioned above. Once you get fuel to the pump it will take a little bit of cranking for the lines going to the injectors to purge the air in them. They do not need to be vented at the injectors but some people like to do that anyway. Look at this video around 2:40 and it should help give you an idea: G154 hone and new rings - YouTube. Glow plugs really need to be working even if the ambient temperature is warm.

 

[Lawson Farms]

I picked up a new battery last night. As soon as I can get the intake off and clean it I'll try to crank it again.

 

[Lawson Farms]

Ok, I replaced the battery. I removed the glow plugs and there is continuity on each glow plug. I do get a test light to light up from the glow plug to the grounding bolt near the air filter. I am no longer seeing the heat indicator glow red on the dash though.

I also removed the fuel lines coming out of the injection pump. I have clean fuel running thru the bleeder screw, but nothing pumping from the injection pump when the engine is turning over.

I also can't get it fire on wd40 when sprayed directly into the metal intake tube.

Any other thoughts?

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Sounds a like you may need to rebuild the injector pump.

But before that, check your injector nozzles and air vent for each injector.

If one of your glow plugs is not working properly your indicator will not light. Continuity does not fully tell you if a glow plug is bad or not.

 

[Lawson Farms]

So I saw a tiny change in the fuel at the pump when I took the lines loose there, so I hooked the battery charger to it and cranked it a little at a time to get fuel to the injectors. Then all I got was some black smoke out of the exhaust. Still couldn't get it to crank.

Earlier in the day, I could get the wire indicator to glow red for the glow plugs, but not anymore. I finally got it to crank by hampering wires from the battery to the glow plugs and manually pulling them off as I cranked it. They were tiny wires though, and I burned through them at the alligator clips.

So I tested the voltage to the glow plugs. It was enough to light a test light, but was only 2 or 3 volts if I remember right when I tested with a meter.

So my next question is...how much voltage should go to the glow plugs? Should it be 12? Can I just run a lead from the battery to a pushbutton on the dash and then to the glow plugs? If so, what size wire and fuse? Or is the glow plug circuit easy to troubleshoot?

Lots of questions, but I'm just happy I saw it come to life. It is amazing how cold natured it is. I only let it run for a minute or so be cause the radiator is empty. But then after quickly reattaching all the air intake parts, it wouldn't start again.

 

[CausticUrbanCoast]

Should be 12V.

You can have a manual switch, but why? If you have the proper ignition switch the glow plug circuit is built in.

It does sound like you may need a new battery. Have you had it load tested at napa or a battery place?

As a pinch, use your jumper cables from your truck battery straight to the tractor battery leads (not connected to the suspect tractor battery). Your tractor is simple enough that it does not actually need the battery to run, just start.

 

[Lawson Farms]

Yes, I just put in a new battery.