woodlandfarms
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2006
- Messages
- 6,118
- Location
- Los Angeles / SW Washington
- Tractor
- PowerTrac 1850, Kubota RTV x900
So this is my results coming off of notes from a question I had on the Harbor Freight thread.
I have a 2007 Ford F150 that threw an ABS Code. I have a nice reader, but it was at the other house. So, spend another $120 for a quality reader or go Harbor Freight. Quickly some kind soul informed me that the reader does not do ABS code. Back to the 120 version. I was about to go this route when I saw in antoher forum that using a Bluetooth / Wireless code reader with an App on your phone would do the work. Results seemed to be mixed, but with Amazon's return policy it seemed a good test of my system.
So here are all my notes..... I bet other people have different experiences.
First, you need a code reader. I ended up with this as it was cheap.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPW6BAE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
This is a WIFI only code reader... Here is what I understand and found out....
Wifi only works with Iphone (which I have). For whatever reason it seems that you cannot use Bluetooth version of these code readers with an Iphone. If you have an android, you can use bluetooth. In my truck, the code reader appears to run all the time, even with the keys off (Meaning it draws power to power the wifi, although it will not transmit codes - this could be a battery issue for your vehicle). The downside to WIFI is that, at least on my iphone, I can no longer get data through the phone company signal as I am using wifi. So if you want maps while you are driving, and you want to read all the guages and readouts as well, you are SOL.
Next thing you need is a program to read the data coming off the code reader and hopefully correctly translate the codes. My feeling is you get what you pay for in this department. My issue with my truck was not an engine code but an ABS code which seems for whatever reason to be a more expensive option to read. I ended up with Autometers code software for $9.99
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dashcommand-obd-ii-gauge-dashboards/id321293183?mt=8
So, I downloaded, got in the truck, turned it on, made my phone connect with the OBD scanner (it was easy to do) and bobs your uncle, I got guages. I will say it was slow connecting. But all the info avail (which in the end is totally useless to me) is really impressive. And I got codes, codes my truck had thrown. Problem is that the codes I got were obscure and the basic software I had purchased would not translate. BUT for $9.99 more I could download the Ford ad on module. What the heck I say. I download it and I now have ABS Codes reading out correctly. Rear Speed Sensor shot. $70 part and an hour of patience and knuckle busting and I will have a fix. Very excited.
So in conclusion, it seems the cheap code reading modules work fine. I am sure there is a higher degree of failure in these devices and if you are a pro this may not be the way to go. You probably don't want to leave it plugged in all the time either.
The software is the key to all of this IMO. Code readers send all the info, it is the aps that need to interpret the signals and provide the best images. You can, with the autometer software, change the skins so the guages change to somehting more appealing (maybe) or something more geeky. Clearly the add on module for Ford worked great, and it looks like not a lot of cars need the add on module. Maybe it is some sort of licensing issue I am unaware of.
Anyway, hope this helps someone.
I have a 2007 Ford F150 that threw an ABS Code. I have a nice reader, but it was at the other house. So, spend another $120 for a quality reader or go Harbor Freight. Quickly some kind soul informed me that the reader does not do ABS code. Back to the 120 version. I was about to go this route when I saw in antoher forum that using a Bluetooth / Wireless code reader with an App on your phone would do the work. Results seemed to be mixed, but with Amazon's return policy it seemed a good test of my system.
So here are all my notes..... I bet other people have different experiences.
First, you need a code reader. I ended up with this as it was cheap.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPW6BAE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
This is a WIFI only code reader... Here is what I understand and found out....
Wifi only works with Iphone (which I have). For whatever reason it seems that you cannot use Bluetooth version of these code readers with an Iphone. If you have an android, you can use bluetooth. In my truck, the code reader appears to run all the time, even with the keys off (Meaning it draws power to power the wifi, although it will not transmit codes - this could be a battery issue for your vehicle). The downside to WIFI is that, at least on my iphone, I can no longer get data through the phone company signal as I am using wifi. So if you want maps while you are driving, and you want to read all the guages and readouts as well, you are SOL.
Next thing you need is a program to read the data coming off the code reader and hopefully correctly translate the codes. My feeling is you get what you pay for in this department. My issue with my truck was not an engine code but an ABS code which seems for whatever reason to be a more expensive option to read. I ended up with Autometers code software for $9.99
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dashcommand-obd-ii-gauge-dashboards/id321293183?mt=8
So, I downloaded, got in the truck, turned it on, made my phone connect with the OBD scanner (it was easy to do) and bobs your uncle, I got guages. I will say it was slow connecting. But all the info avail (which in the end is totally useless to me) is really impressive. And I got codes, codes my truck had thrown. Problem is that the codes I got were obscure and the basic software I had purchased would not translate. BUT for $9.99 more I could download the Ford ad on module. What the heck I say. I download it and I now have ABS Codes reading out correctly. Rear Speed Sensor shot. $70 part and an hour of patience and knuckle busting and I will have a fix. Very excited.
So in conclusion, it seems the cheap code reading modules work fine. I am sure there is a higher degree of failure in these devices and if you are a pro this may not be the way to go. You probably don't want to leave it plugged in all the time either.
The software is the key to all of this IMO. Code readers send all the info, it is the aps that need to interpret the signals and provide the best images. You can, with the autometer software, change the skins so the guages change to somehting more appealing (maybe) or something more geeky. Clearly the add on module for Ford worked great, and it looks like not a lot of cars need the add on module. Maybe it is some sort of licensing issue I am unaware of.
Anyway, hope this helps someone.