oil is oil

   / oil is oil #21  
Oh ya? Well I knew a guy that said he knew a guy that had met a guy who knew of a guy who.....................:p

Troy
 
   / oil is oil #22  
Oh ya? Well I knew a guy that said he knew a guy that had met a guy who knew of a guy who.....................:p

Troy


:D Well this guy also new your guy so there!

The mechanic finally talked him into an oil change said the stuff looked like tar.
 
   / oil is oil #23  
Heck I may BE the guy :eek: . Ive got a couple of old trucks I use on the property I,ve never even opened the hoods on except for putting a new battery in them when needed . :D

I,m not real good at changing fluids on my other stuff as well, but keep an eye on all levels & things greased , if something starts leaking I,ll fix it . If it looks bad or to thin I,ll change it but other then that if it aint broke , well you know the saying . :D .

I still have a couple of cases of oil thats in the metal cans. :eek: . Bob
 
   / oil is oil #24  
API SA maybe ;)

soundguy
 
   / oil is oil #25  
For years, I changed every 3k miles and used cheap multigrade oil or Exxon (since I worked for them in lube oil industry). Beheaded a Fiat once, and it had NO cylinder bore wear ring that I could feel. So, this keeps wear down in the lower end of the engines. Now, since retiring and EM merger, I put 0w30 Mobil 1 in every engine I own (because Exxon tests had shown it to be the best). It's convenient, as I can run all year without changing. Each vehicle runs about 6-7k miles/yr, and the tractor goes 60-100 hours/yr. The generator sometimes goes 2 to 3 years because it's a pill to change its oil, and it isn't run much. The patch of grass where I drained it last year is still bare.

One of the engineers who used to work for me quit and went to work for Sun for a while; he's back with EM now. He said Sun did a taxicab fleet test, some with dino oil and others with Mobil 1. The ones with Mobil 1 had NO valve train wear. This is how Mobil 1 gives you 4% better fuel economy and hp; hp isn't being spent grinding away some valve train components. I've experienced 3 to 4% fuel economy increase on the 4 on road vehicles I've put it in. Can't tell on the tractor.

Ralph
 
   / oil is oil #26  
Like I said before my ex girlfriends dad works for Pennzoil. He always told us it did not matter so much what oil you use or what brand as long as it meets the specs for the engine and you change it per the maintenance schedule. He always joked and said "SAE" means Same As Everybody Else!

Chris
 
   / oil is oil #27  
Heck.. whatever is being made today has to be better than what was made in the 30's, 40's and 50's...

Looking at my old tractor fleet.. considering they were run on 50's oil technology.. some with no detergent.. and some with oil change intervals spanning (multi) decades i reckon... giving them a walmart supertech oil change and fram oil filter every year must be like a day spa and pamper treatment.

soundguy
 
   / oil is oil #28  
I have in the last 25 years used fram and penzoil in all my vehicles @ about 3k oil change intervals. So far never had to open any engine up to see for myself. I had to overhaul my Buick Skylark engine once (short block, valve grinding and stuff) and that was when my wife was coming home from work and radiator hose busted and she kept on driving home and later she said "I was just about a 1.5 from home .. that's all":D. I put the fear of god in my wife and kids to pull aside and call me pronto and on the double if they see a red light or hear something squawking:D
I have used NH oil/ and filter for a while and then switched later to fram and Rotella for my 30 yr old Ford tractor changing every 50 hrs. I yet to figure our if I'm helping or hurting my tractor:confused:

JC,
 
   / oil is oil #29  
If you want to get into a REAL oil discussion head on over to one of the motorcycle forums....especially HD or BMW. Theres two groups that really get excited about the most MINUTE differences in lubricants. I've seen oil discussions go on for weeks on the Beemer forum.

I used to buy a case of factory BMW synth oil each season for my bike....then it got so expen$ive I switched to Mobil 1 from Wally World.

I don't know WHAT I'm going to use for oil in the new B2620 but I still have 20 hrs to figure it out. Probably use Kubota initially then switch to Mobil 1 or whatever. Still need to do the research on that one.

My feelings are that as long as the oil rating is appropriate for your useage...it's a good choice.

FN in MT
 
   / oil is oil #30  
I don't know WHAT I'm going to use for oil in the new B2620 but I still have 20 hrs to figure it out. Probably use Kubota initially then switch to Mobil 1 or whatever.
I'm tellin' ya', Shell RTS 5-40 is the cat's whiskers!! :rolleyes:

Kubota oil is nothing to write home about, at least based on analysis. My brother got a new "Grand" L4740 (QUITE the tractor, BTW), and got a case of Kubota branded 15-40 oil along with it, so I sent a sample out for analysis. The numbers that came back looked so low that I sent a sample to another lab, and got much the same results. Now, either that was a bad batch of oil, or both labs' sampling equipment was off, or that's just what Kubota branded oil contains. :confused:
 
 
Top