OK Now I've Done It.

   / OK Now I've Done It. #1  

TO_Bud

Silver Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2004
Messages
200
Location
St. Clair, Michigan
Tractor
2000 TC40D, TnT, 758B BH
Well not me specifically, it was a family thing. My son recently purchased some lakefront property in northern Michigan, real pretty 1 acre wooded lot on an equally pretty sandy bottomed lake. The lot is virgin wooded with an assortment or hardwoods and quite a few poplars and pines. Also throughout the property is years and years of fallen timber and stumps mostly rotted and half submerged in the soil. Anyway while he was pushing over, boxblading and clearing with the grapple he ran over ran over a 6" branch that rotated up under the tractor and caught the diverter block just perfectly. Before he realized it the block was pushed upward to the point that a steel hydraulic line broke. Actually the the line didn't break the fitting sheared off flush with the diverter block. He didn't have proper tools with him at the time so he left the tractor as it was and came home for the week. He felt the steel line was bent so he ordered (overnighted) a new fitting and line (going to the joystick) from the local NH Dealer. Oh did I forget to mention, I haven't been told of the mishap at this point. He felt he could repair it himself, no harm no foul right? I think you know where I'm going with this. He drives back up the following weekend and begins the repair. I finally sniff out a problem when he calls me to ask what is the proper hydraulic fluid for the tractor. He spends several hours laying in the dirt getting the broken fitting out only to find the dealer ordered the wrong steel line. Luckily there is a Kubota Dealer a few miles away who is able to make up short hydraulic hose with the correct fittings for him. He and I are communicating with texts all this time (bad cell signal) and I'm getting frustrated. If anyone has worked on the TC's joystick plumbing you know how difficult it is to get to the flare nuts in the back. He finally texts me that it is back together and running, all hydraulics are working but the Hydro pedals are not going down far enough so the tractor is only creeping along.
I had him load it up and bring it home so I can see what the problem is. Turns out the log pushed the diverter block up to the point the steel lines were now interfering with the pedal movement. The lines were restricting the pedals to about 1/3 of their normal travel.. Not only that but all the remaining steel lines were tweaked to the point that if they were removed from the block they would not line back up when the blocks bracket was straightened and the block was back where it should be. I would have been replacing several steel lines, not an attractive option. I decided to leave them all attached and try to get the block back down where it belonged. If one or more lines broke I wouldn't be any worse off anyway. Well getting the block back down where it belonged was easier said than done. I finally was able to use a pipe wrench with a cheater to get everything realigned, all the while praying I didn't damage the diverter block. I made small little corrections until it was clear of the pedals. Everything appears OK, some pipe wrench teeth marks on the diverter housing but nothing cracked and I don't have any leaks, at least now after running it for 1/2 hour or so. That's the end of my long story, keep your fingers crossed for me, the tractors going back up for more abuse this weekend. This is a pretty tough machine.
 
   / OK Now I've Done It. #2  
PEEK-tures! We need pictures.:confused3: How can we ever over-analyze this if we don't have pictures?;)
 
   / OK Now I've Done It.
  • Thread Starter
#3  
PEEK-tures! We need pictures.:confused3: How can we ever over-analyze this if we don't have pictures?;)

I knew even as I was writing about my woes that the pictures request would follow lol. Sadly I was so engrossed with what I was doing that it didn't even occur to me until I was done. If I take a picture now it will be of a normal looking diverter block with some pipe wrench teeth marks on it. I'll take some in the morning to at least show the area. I just came in from grading the road of our little subdivision using the tractor and all is well.
 
   / OK Now I've Done It. #4  
Based on your description, I'm guessing that the diverter is still a bit kinked and the rigid lines a bit bent. As such, you can't really put in a single line that is proper because the remaining lines are kinked. You have to accept it like it is or be prepared to remove and straighten every line or replace them with new ones. You can't just replace one without fixin' all the others. That's what I think without seeing it.
 
   / OK Now I've Done It.
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Actually came out pretty good considering how far up the lines were pushed. The block is held in place by a bracket. I've attached the drawing out of the manual, bolt (1) secures the bracket. That bracket was bent up and somewhat twisted. Pic second from right shows the offending line and the pedal linkage that travels in a downward arc as the pedal is depressed. Before I repositioned the block that line was about an inch away from the linkage. The diagram from the manual does not show the joystick lines but the plug ports are there to see, the lines connect to those ports. Prior to repositioning the block the larger diameter hydraulic supply line was out of alignment with the rubber tube section stretched and angled. After repositioning that line is in pretty good alignment once again. If my hoses (lines) look different than others it's because I have a Backhoe line kit on that replaced the power beyond steel line with the QD rubber hose. Anyway here are the finished pics.

Diverter block.jpg IMG_2168.JPG IMG_2169.JPG IMG_2170.JPG
 

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   / OK Now I've Done It. #6  
Well, it looks pretty normal to me, especially with the backhoe quick connect and flexible hoses. That front fitting on the diverter valve (from the pump) was the one that recently gave me fits. Yours seem good, sealed, and tight. Did you have trouble keeping your sub-frame bolted up? I've never seen one welded. My bolts came loose once and I had to tighten them, but I was surprised to see yours is welded. Maybe your dealer did that as a way to guarantee the subframe stays in place with a backhoe attached.
 
   / OK Now I've Done It.
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Well, it looks pretty normal to me, especially with the backhoe quick connect and flexible hoses. That front fitting on the diverter valve (from the pump) was the one that recently gave me fits. Yours seem good, sealed, and tight. Did you have trouble keeping your sub-frame bolted up? I've never seen one welded. My bolts came loose once and I had to tighten them, but I was surprised to see yours is welded. Maybe your dealer did that as a way to guarantee the subframe stays in place with a backhoe attached.

Good eye Jim, I was wondering who might call me on the subframe. I made that extension on the subframe from some bar stock I had laying around. The purpose was to move the frame reward and at the back end I welded up a pin housing that connects to the ROPS frame. My backhoe uses the 3 pt lift arm pins for support as well as it's own subframe (not pictured). I wasn't comfortable with my rear axle housing carrying the load that the backhoe puts on it so those auxiliary pins I made are now used. The backhoe is a tad lower now because I didn't want any interference of the 3 pt arms and also the sway stabilizer bars. Every thing works well and there is clearance for all movements but it's tight. I just feel better about the setup now. Here are the pics :)
 

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