Operating RPMs and Regen

[TractorNoob85]

Hey everyone

I got a new DK4520 8x8 shuttle today and I'm a bit curious what everyone's advice is on operating rpm's to minimize the regen process from occurring.

The dealer told me to keep it above 1700rpm at all times and the higher the better while low RPMs can be attributed to clogging the DFI filter.

Nothing in the manual states a recommended operating rpm aside from PTO speed and what speed to stay above during the regen process.

In my mind, I want to operate it to what feels comfortable for the situation but I don't want to "mess" anything up either.

What are everyone's thoughts and experiences?

This is my first diesel vehicle. My only previous experience with a tractor has been an old Farmall M.

 

[scootr]

My MX5200 is my first hydrostatic tractor. It took a bit getting used to setting the rpm high enough for efficient operation. Yes you can do work at lower rpms but it will regen more often. Ideally if the rpms are high like when operating a mower the machine can regen and work at the same time, less often.
Once I understood the tractor hydrostatic operation was the same as my SS operation I got it. Duh
1500 rpms is the lowest I set it to and 2k is more commonly used. Regen requires 2200 rpms on my tractor. I'd rather it do it when it is working than parked. The regen cycle can take 15-20 minutes

 

[Wagtail]

G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

I, too, was a 'noob' when I got my 4105 (hydrostatic) and it took me a bit of experimentation to find the rpm that it works most efficiently at... in my case it's just a wee bit above 2100 (2600-2700 if I'm 'on the road' in 2WD).

If I'm working the tractor (in 4WD), I found that I'm just wasting fuel by going higher.

My 4105 is "tier III", so no regen.

 

[Advil]

Speaking as someone who's only had a tractor for a little over a year and has put 150+ hours on it: So far, our CK4010SE likes to be at or above 1800RPM. I've taken to going even a bit higher recently whenever working the tractor hard... 2000+. That's still well below PTO RPM.

1800+ is used as a baseline number by dealers because it should extend regen time for basic use and it's also the lowest RPM you get your full hydraulic power.

I noticed that 1800 seemed to keep regen at bay for a long time if you aren't working the tractor hard and bogging it. Once I started doing a ton of FEL dirt moving and box blade work that wasn't enough to keep it clean and it kicked a couple of cycles sooner than I would have expected. Since then I've bumped up to about 2000+ RPM when I'm working it. It's way happier at that RPM and above if you are in low gear scooping dirt or doing ground engagement I can tell you that.

It took me a while to "get over it" as far as the incredible difference in the sound and fury between idle and 2000+ RPM. You MUST get over it and throttle that baby up. It's designed to run up there. It needs to run up there.

I only run idle or on warm days maybe 1200rpm when it's first started cold until the thermostat opens. As soon as it does, I throttle up to 1800-2000 depending on what I'm doing and just leave it.

Heck, when the wood chipper goes on it gets throttled all the way to PTO RPM and it may stay there for an hour or two which always sounds like the world is going to end for the first few minutes until you get used to it.

 

[RjCorazza]

I keep my tractor at 1500 rpms or so when not doing heavy or pto work, and regens for me average every 50 hours. Regen intervals vary wildly based on manufacturer and use.
It's also a good idea to shut down a a Tier4 machine rather than let it unnecessarily run for long periods. I generally shut it off if the machine isn't in use for more than 5 minutes.