Overheated Tractor - Where to start

   / Overheated Tractor - Where to start
  • Thread Starter
#21  
I finally got around to removing the pistons. The rings are definintely shot. I discovered the source of the metal on top of the piston. It is part of the piston itself. Look like part of the number 1 piston melted. it is pretty scarred up on the top edge. I will definitely be replacing probably both pistons and rings. Also the piston pin bushing appears to have excessive wear. There is too much fee play. I believe this to be the source of the knocking. I don't know whether to replace the pin and bushing or just the bushing.

The cylinder linings look pretty good. They feel smooth. I cannot see or feel any noticable scratches. There are some small ridges down about 1/4" from the top of the cylinder. I think a ridge reamer will take care of that.

The rod bearings looked okay but, I might as well replace them anyway since I have removed the pistons. I cannot see or feel any play in the main crank bearing.

Also, I see no sign of the cracks in the block.

I guess the next step is to get the head checked. IF it is okay I will go ahead and have the valves and seats ground.
 
   / Overheated Tractor - Where to start #22  
To answer your previous question.. yes.. if you have a 1700, then a water pump from a 2000 will fit.

Soundguy
 
   / Overheated Tractor - Where to start #23  
Soundguy said:
To complicate matters.. if this is a 4 -digit 'grey' yanmar under a 2000 series.. it won't have a water pump.. just thermosyphon. soundguy

Not all Yanmars with 4 numbers under 2000 have thermosiphon for example my 1510 does have a pump. Sailor bob's 1700 is thermosiphon and your statement remains valid just too general.

mike
 
   / Overheated Tractor - Where to start #24  
Bob,
If the engine rebuild is going to be to costly with the cost of a mechanic added in, check with one of the dealers here to see what a used engine would cost. I have no idea what one would run but it might be less expensive that a rebuild.
 
   / Overheated Tractor - Where to start #25  
it was meant to be 'generalized'. It would take over a page to list out all the yanmar units.. some with and some without water pumps.

For that matter.. the 4 digit / 3 digit grey/domestic doesn't hold true either.. there are exceptions all over the place.

Soundguy

MJPetersen said:
Not all Yanmars with 4 numbers under 2000 have thermosiphon for example my 1510 does have a pump. Sailor bob's 1700 is thermosiphon and your statement remains valid just too general.

mike
 
   / Overheated Tractor - Where to start #26  
Soundguy,
I knew that you knew that, but wanted to clarify for those who do not know that.:D how's that for a sentence?:rolleyes:

Hope things are better with you and your work.

Mike
 
   / Overheated Tractor - Where to start
  • Thread Starter
#27  
JerryG said:
Bob,
If the engine rebuild is going to be to costly with the cost of a mechanic added in, check with one of the dealers here to see what a used engine would cost. I have no idea what one would run but it might be less expensive that a rebuild.

I believe that the cost of another engine would be more than the parts. I have calculated that if i replace the parts that I am pretty sure need to be replaced (pistons, rings, rod bearings, piston pin bushings, gaskets) the cost would be in the neighborhood of $400. That does not count the cost of the head work. I am not sure what that cost will be yet. The labor cost is just my time.

Everything else on the tractor worked fine before the incident.

Thanks for the suggestion though.
 
   / Overheated Tractor - Where to start #28  
It's slow going... some days are better than others. I just heard some fairly positive news thou8gh.. maybee some light at the end of the tunnel per-se.
thanks for asking


Soundguy

MJPetersen said:
Soundguy,
I knew that you knew that, but wanted to clarify for those who do not know that.:D how's that for a sentence?:rolleyes:

Hope things are better with you and your work.

Mike
 
   / Overheated Tractor - Where to start #29  
Clocks wont always tell you when something is overheating , if water is not circulating sender is not always in hot water, Let my mother run a combine once and a radiator hose collapsed and stopped circulation , She called me on the CB saying it was smoking a bit , by the time i raced my machine accross the field to hers motor was idling but paint was blistering on the head ,
shut it down but would not restart , Not seized but when we tore it down it had burned the tips off the injectors . And bearing shells had all turned but never showed hot on the clock .How it never seized is beyond me .
We've always had pretty decent results with dropping in used motors (depends on the demise of the donor).
 
   / Overheated Tractor - Where to start #30  
SailorBob said:
I believe that the cost of another engine would be more than the parts. I have calculated that if i replace the parts that I am pretty sure need to be replaced (pistons, rings, rod bearings, piston pin bushings, gaskets) the cost would be in the neighborhood of $400. That does not count the cost of the head work. I am not sure what that cost will be yet. The labor cost is just my time.

Everything else on the tractor worked fine before the incident.

Thanks for the suggestion though.
That is not too bad a price for an engine that you know what you have. I wondered when you were talking about metal on the top of the piston if the piston had delaminated. I have had sons who drove their cars hot have the same problem. I was glad to see you are looking at replacing both pistons. If one piston got hot enough to delaminate the other piston got hot also and may have weakened. Depending on the cost of the head repairs I would be tempted to go ahead and replace the sleeves and not have to worry about them. I am not a mechanic but I would worry about getting that hot and having the metal fatigue.
 
 
Top