Overheating ford 1100

[brianMO]

I know overheating problems have been covered many times. I have searched and read several threads. My little ford will run about 20 minutes under load before it starts boiling over. I have flushed using zerex cleaner. I have tightened the belt that runs the fan and water pump. I have check the thermostat. Was not there (first clue). I have had the tractor for about 4 years. I can pull the cap off when cold and start it. Seems to have flow, but is it enough? I think the waterpump is bad. What is the best way to check this? It is a pricey item for this little workhorse. Found one on EBAY already. Have not been able to locate anywhere else. Left a couple of messages for rebuilders. Any help with parts, and advice would be invaluable.

Thx,
Brian

 

[petegoud]

Check to make sure the radiator has plenty of airflow through it, clean any screens and also make sure air actually flows through it to cool it (wash the outside of the radiator). This might not solve your problem, but it certainly can't hurt.

 

[dbdartman]

If you have flow, the water pump is doing what it should; moving water. Don't let that fool you into thinking the radiator is good enough, though. Could be that enough tubes are plugged in the radiator so it can't shed heat as fast as the engine makes it, eventually causing it to overheat.

First thing to check is raise engine RPM to work level & see if the lower radiator hose is collapsing (often happens when thermostat is removed). If it is, replace it. Next, I highly recommend the radiator be re-cored. While it's out, if the pump is easily accessible then you can either check the condition of the impeller or (I would suggest) replace it (cheap insurance). Install the recommended thermostat, & fill with a 50/50 mix.

Next, if you do all this & the engine STILL eventually overheats, you should clean/rebuild the carb as a lean fuel mixture will cause excessive heat (gas engine only of course).

Finally, if the cooling system has been neglected long enough there may be sludge build-up in the engine inhibiting heat transfer to the coolant. Reverse flushing may be necessary (& is highly recommended in any event if you replace/recore the radiator). Simply make an adapter from the upper rad hose to a garden hose, remove thermostat, & let the water run until it comes out clear. You can back-flush like this through the old radiator if you like, but if you're having work done on the rad, just let the water run from the lower hose or water pump housing.

Good luck! Overheating problems are not usually difficult to deal with, but like charging/battery problems, when one part of the SYSTEM fails it usually over-stresses the rest of the SYSTEM shortening other component's life.

 

[Bill_C]

Kinda hard to rebuild the carb, this is is a diesel.

But I do agree with the rest of that post. Especially the collapsing hose part, many people don't realize that hoses can collapse like that, especially once they're warm....

 

[brianMO]

Thanks for the advice. I think I have a blown head-gasket due to pushing a bad water pump, or bad radiator. I checked yesterday and it is bubbling thru the radiator. Was not doing that before. Head gasket time I believe. The only real way is to pressure test. Never replaced a h-gaket on a diesel. Same concept applies I am sure. I think I am going to go ahead and change the w-pump.

 

[brianMO]

I did some troubleshooting last night. My WP is good. Started tractor up with upper hose removed. Shot out pretty strong. Pulled my radiator, and found something interesting. There was melted plastic blocking some tubes. Apparently they put plastic spiralling pieces for whatever reason in the tubes. Can somebody shed some light on this one. I removed the blob of plastic and removed all plastic I could get to. I still think I have a blown head gasket leaking combustion gas thru the waterjacket due to the radiator not circulating well. I have bubbles. I am going to try Bars head gasket repair. I have nothing to lose. I was able to run a little longer last night before it reach a critical temp. $111.00 is a little steep for a 2cylinder head gasket! Plus...the labor involved does not appeal to me right now. I thought it would be worth a try anyway.

 

[Soundguy]

CNH makes a radiator addative.. i think I'd use it first.. etc.

soundguy

 

[chumly2071]

My past experiences with the "quickie plug fix goo" have all resulted in making things you don't want plugged plug up. ymmv...

 

[Soundguy]

Ordinarily I agree.. however for a manufacturer approved 'goo'.. I wouldn't worry too much. besides.. the LARGE holes int he rad and block are huge compaired to the tiny capilary or pin hole size leaks that the product is designed to treat.

soundguy

 

[brianMO]

If the manufactures instructions are followed I cannot see how you would hurt anything. It just probably will not work. First you flush the system. Not compatible with antifreeze. Combine with the recommended dose of water. Mix, then add to system. Start and bring it up to temp with t-stat removed. Turn off , cool, repeat, 3 times, the 3rd you let it run for up to an hour. Maybe just put it to work. 1500rpm for an hour. I will know pretty quick if it does not work because I am going to overheat. Let cool, drain, and leave r-cap off and allow air to cure the new ceramic seal for 24 hours . Flush, then add 50/50 mix. All for a little over $10 bucks! To good to be true...right! Look on the Bars website for all the testimonies. Read the tech sheet. Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Repair