Paint for implements - Rustoleum, store brand equivalent, or what?

[California]

Lots of good advice! What I've learned here and from sixdogs' linked thread:

Don't bother with my Alkyd metal-capable paint that I have left over from house painting. Or the Latex Metal Primer a friend gave me.

I need to buy more Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer and use this for the first coat on everything. That's what I primed with on this project, refinishing iron patio furniture recently, followed by Rustoleum enamel. The HF HVLP $9 spray gun did a great job on this, much better than I expected. A couple of tractor wheels included in that project were the only flat surfaces, they look great too. Hopefully that gun is sufficient for implements.

For topcoats I learned something here, buy tractor OEM paint for superior quality at moderate price.

I wasn't thinking of using the primer with the hazardous additive and I definitely wont use that after reading the safety warnings.

Amazon has product descriptions for Rustoleum's special paint lines, Industrial, Farm Equipment, etc. Those sound a lot better than TSC's Majic line. But tractor OEM paint sounds like the best buy for durability.

What else don't I know?

 

[sixdogs]

...

What else don't I know?

For dirt work implements like I use, I scrape the loose paint off with a screwdriver and sometimes hit with a 5" wire wheel on a grinder. Then I wash everything with a brush and dishwashing detergent, let dry and then the Rustoleum primer. The detergent is a great degreaser.

Two coats of paint. The first is a light mist and follow up shortly with a heavier one.


Here's another thread. Check out the quality of real quality Ford red paint.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/278852-repaint-old-ford-dearborn-two.html


And one last one. Tell me that isn't the most beautiful red you have ever seen.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/312434-1950s-dearborn-cultivator-find-rebuild.html


OK, one more. Green.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/219879-scored-one-shank-ripper-subsoiler.html


Have fun and post pictures.

 

[ray66v]

I wasn't thinking of using the primer with the hazardous additive and I definitely wont use that after reading the safety warnings.

While the Isocyanate additive is potentially harmful, so are the other dozens of dangerous, cancer causing chemicals you will be exposed to, when spraying any oil based paint.

The protective equipment required, and the safety procedures you should follow, with, or without, an isocyanate additive, are exactly the same.

 

[California]

Is paint thinner wipedown as good as detergent before priming bare/scraped metal? Seems like it would be better than a chance of painting over water residue left in joints and cracks.

 

[CADplans]

Is paint thinner wipedown as good as detergent before priming bare/scraped metal? Seems like it would be better than a chance of painting over water residue left in joints and cracks.

There are two things you need to remove,,,
oily residue
dirt.

Paint thinner is great for oily residue, not so much for dirt.
A detergent is better at removing both!! :thumbsup:

 

[ray66v]

Is paint thinner wipedown as good as detergent before priming bare/scraped metal? Seems like it would be better than a chance of painting over water residue left in joints and cracks.

I would only use a solvent based product at that point. Two rags, one to apply, one to remove. Only apply as much as you can wipe off, before it dries.

Any dirt should have already been removed, before you started prepping.

As far as what's in the cracks, or joints, that's what a blow gun is for.

 

[RalphVa]

I asked this over in Implements and got a few excellent replies but I'd still like to see a wider range of opinions:

I see Rustoleum red primer and finish paint next to store brand equivalents at Ace Hardware, TSC etc. The house brands are less expensive. Anybody know if the store brands are the same thing relabeled?


Second question - Is alkyd oil-base 'exterior' paint suitable as the prime or finish coat for implements left outdoors?

One more question - 'Latex exterior metal primer'. Any good?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Best Rustoleum primer is something called Rust Reformer. It's black and turns any rust black as well. I once sprayed some on a snow plow. It never rusted again.

Ralph

 

[California]

Best Rustoleum primer is something called Rust Reformer. It's black and turns any rust black as well. I once sprayed some on a snow plow. It never rusted again.

Ralph

I've used Rust Reformer (spray can) where I wanted to bond and hide rust, with minimal prep and a single coat. But I wonder if the red primer gives better adhesion when spraying large areas that will see abrasion, like a trailer bed. How are they different?

 

[sixdogs]

Don't know about the converter but with the Rusty Red Primer I don't wait too long for it to dry. Sometimes overnight but often just an hour or two in the hot sun. Same thing with final paint on implements; I let the first light coat go 15 minutes to an hour when it's hot and then hit the second heavier coat. Works great for me.

 

[teejk]

I've used Rust Reformer (spray can) where I wanted to bond and hide rust, with minimal prep and a single coat. But I wonder if the red primer gives better adhesion when spraying large areas that will see abrasion, like a trailer bed. How are they different?

My guess is that they are one and the same. I use red primer a lot because I can see what needs a top-coat.