Paint question

[deerefan]

Thanks for the compliment.
Growing up i worked in a neighbors bodyshop and learned alot.

That is exactly how I learned mechanic work. Started sweeping floors in the shop and a couple years later was working as a level 1 mechanic. Kept my mouth shut and ears open- amazing now looking back the stuff I learned.

 

[Soundguy]

This is how I approach this truck. I ride pastures in it and have branches rub the sides on occassion. The truck is mechanicaly sound and worth putting a few hundred in to a paint job. I have a garge/shop to spray in but no booth. I like ray66's advice and am looking into these products now with NAPA.

some plastic sheeting and some pvc pipe or 2x4 makes a great temp spray booth..

 

[super55]

To do the hood and roof of your truck yourself it is definitely doable. First thing to do is go to a store that specializes with automotive paints. They can find and blend the model color for your year vehicle and some have computers where they can take a paint chip and match the color. Doing a rattle can job over large panels like that are very difficult to get good results without streaking. Get the original finish scuffed up real good and lay your primer down than start the wet sanding. Priming is where paying attention to detail pays off. While the pros can often blend and lay multiple coats to fix an imperfection with the paint I never have had any luck with it. I always got either runs or orange peel from laying too many wet coats too fast.

I would recommend going with a single stage acrylic enamel with a wet look hardener over using a basecoat clearcloat. Unless your truck has an immaculate finish it won't likely be noticeable plus it is much easier to work with and doesn't require wheeling and buffing to get a factory finish. My experience with clear coat is you really need to know what your doing with it to get desired results; Lay too thick get runs, too thin it leaves overspray resulting in a ton of buffing and if the paint has any oil on it you'll get fisheyes.

My advice would be 1. Watch youtube vids on auto painting 2. Go to a pro-shop to get paint/primer such as Napa. The guys should know what paints and how much you'll need, if they don't go to another store. 3. Use right tools. A good air compressor with a cheap inline moisture filter and a unclogged spray gun are critical. Practice on some scrap sheet metal before you start to make sure you have the gun calibrated correctly and keep an eye on the hose so as not to drag on your prepped/painted areas.

If the results turn out good you'll be looking for other things to paint trust me:thumbsup:

 

[ray66v]

To do the hood and roof of your truck yourself it is definitely doable. First thing to do is go to a store that specializes with automotive paints. They can find and blend the model color for your year vehicle and some have computers where they can take a paint chip and match the color. Doing a rattle can job over large panels like that are very difficult to get good results without streaking. Get the original finish scuffed up real good and lay your primer down than start the wet sanding. Priming is where paying attention to detail pays off. While the pros can often blend and lay multiple coats to fix an imperfection with the paint I never have had any luck with it. I always got either runs or orange peel from laying too many wet coats too fast.

I would recommend going with a single stage acrylic enamel with a wet look hardener over using a basecoat clearcloat. Unless your truck has an immaculate finish it won't likely be noticeable plus it is much easier to work with and doesn't require wheeling and buffing to get a factory finish. My experience with clear coat is you really need to know what your doing with it to get desired results; Lay too thick get runs, too thin it leaves overspray resulting in a ton of buffing and if the paint has any oil on it you'll get fisheyes.

My advice would be 1. Watch youtube vids on auto painting 2. Go to a pro-shop to get paint/primer such as Napa. The guys should know what paints and how much you'll need, if they don't go to another store. 3. Use right tools. A good air compressor with a cheap inline moisture filter and a unclogged spray gun are critical. Practice on some scrap sheet metal before you start to make sure you have the gun calibrated correctly and keep an eye on the hose so as not to drag on your prepped/painted areas.

If the results turn out good you'll be looking for other things to paint trust me:thumbsup:

Keep in mind that you only have to prime the areas that you have repaired. Anywhere the existing finish is sound, and free of defects, it only needs to be cleaned and scuff sanded.

 

[Soundguy]

. First thing to do is go to a store that specializes with automotive paints. They can find and blend the model color for your year vehicle and some have computers where they can take a paint chip and match the color. Doing a rattle can job over large panels like that are very difficult to get good results without streaking. I would recommend going with a single stage acrylic enamel with a wet look hardener over using a basecoat clearcloat. Unless your truck has an immaculate finish it won't likely be noticeable plus it is much easier to work with and doesn't require wheeling and buffing to get a factory finish. :

I agree.. i did this on all 3 trucks I painted. I had carquest match my factory paint via door code, then mix it up in nason synthetic enamil, single stage.

worked awesome.

 

[joe t]

Camo paint job with extra cans of spray paint you have laying around always looks sharp.