Paint sprayer guidance

[Deere Dude]

I have an old JD 110 with faded green paint and I want to spray it with a quart type sprayer. Does anyone know a good way to get the viscosity correct so it paints well right away. I always try to paint with thick paint and it plugs everything up. Then I am trying to figure out on the fly the correct viscosity and never seems to work. I try adding thinner, it doesn't seen to work unless the paint is like water almost.

 

[forgeblast]

look at some of the automotive forums out there. One person used a drip method and illustrated it to show what the paint should look like. I didnt bookmark it so i am not sure where it is now.

 

[Western]

From what little I've seen, the spray is thin, probably why they do several coats. I had a friend that painted "funny" cars, his paint seemed rather thin. I paint with a heavier viscosity paint (Chlorinated Rubber) I can change my coverage by using different spray tips and pressure settings.

I think I had a couple of the type sprayers you mentioned, you may double check the tip you have. I'm sure you can get a specific automotive paint tip for it if it doesn't already have one. You might try mixing it thin and painting a small, like 1'x1' piece of sheet metal as a test strip to see where you need to be.

 

[/pine]

First, be sure the paint is made for spraying...secondly, be sure to use the right size orifice (spraying tip) for the paint...

If the paint is made for spray applications it should tell you what and how to thin it...

 

[George2615]

For an automotive type spray gun I'd mix 1 part paint to 2 parts thinner and spray in thin coats. Don't lay it on too heavy or you'll get runs.

 

[Deere Dude]

First, be sure the paint is made for spraying...secondly, be sure to use the right size orifice (spraying tip) for the paint...

If the paint is made for spray applications it should tell you what and how to thin it...

The paint I am trying to use is pretty darn thick. I tried to thin it out so it would spray well but it seems like almost water. I'll double check the paint to see it it can be sprayed and try on a small piece. I'll try to find the orifice size and check some paint forum somewhere. Maybe I'll take a hike down to a body shop to.
Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Luremaker]

I spray using Tremclad (Rustoleum) and use 8 parts Tremclad, 4 parts reducer and 1 part hardener. Easy to spray in the no-name gun I use.

 

[Rusty2008]

I have painted a few tractors at work. All I use is the drip method. Keep adding thinners until when you lift the stirrer out, the paint will sit on the end for a short period then drip off. Not run off, but also wont stay there to long.

Then when you start painting, sand it, blow it of with compressed air. Then wash it in multipurpose thinners. Then spray a cover coat, just a real quick once over. This will help stop runs forming later on.

Jeremy.

 

[brokenot]

I spray using Tremclad (Rustoleum) and use 8 parts Tremclad, 4 parts reducer and 1 part hardener. Easy to spray in the no-name gun I use.

My "non-specific" recipe is similar....roughly 2 parts enamel to every 1 part reducer. If you need to thin it out more than that to get it to spray, you've got a gun or air supply issue.

Lots of good info here:

Ask Doctor Gun

 

[Gary Fowler]

There is a little tool that you can check the viscosity with. It looks like an inverted vee with a handle. You dip it in the paint and pull it out, the point to where the paint doesnt bridge across the V gives you the viscosity. You have to know what viscosity index you need to spray though.