Pan. Percussion drill DY Need help and ideas
- Thread starter irenesg
- Start date
BHD
Veteran Member
go look at the picture,
the cable/rope is threaded through a series of pulleys. and the "walking beam" the (teeter toter type arm), it purpose is to pull the cable up and then drop it,
by making, a crank (powered and geared down from the engine), the crank (with a roller) on the crank to reduce friction and wear, when the cable is down the walking beam is in the up position with the tail of it down, the crank comes around and catches under the beam and lifts it up on the tail end, moving the pulley end of it down pulling the cable up, as crank nears the top of the rotation, (in the drawing) it slips off and let the cable drop,
(the main draw back of this design is one will need to create a stop to limit the drop or watch it close so the crank can always get under the beam,
on the second, ( see video aobut 50 seconds into it),
the difference there is a swinging arm that is attached, to the crank and to the beam,( or directly to the pully) and the fixed section of the crank catches the arm at the top of the stoke (rotation of the crank), and then pulls/rotates it to the down position, and when it over centers at the bottom It allows the cable/rope to drop, or free fall, swinging up very fast, and as the slower crank comes back around catches the arm and pulls it down, and repeats the cycle.
(the idea is to pull the cable down and drop fast it so the bit can do it work of digging the hole), by letting the bit pulverize the dirt or soil in the hole,
(very similar to using a bar in a post hole to bust up the dirt, rock or what ever, in the bottom of the hole so it can be removed), after pulverizing the dirt a "bucket" with a one way vale is used to clear the mud out of the hole and once it is done you re enter with the bit and pound again when you have more mud than you can effectively pound through you bucket it out, and repeat, until you have the depth you want,
so having two winches one for the drilling bits and one for the bailer, is many times considered a plus,
the winch on the bit will need to have the ability to be let up little by little so the bit can lower and so the max length of drop can be obtained,
depending on the depth, and how large your unit is, one may just want to pull it by hand, under 100 feet it may be easiest, than using winches,
or a lawn tractor or car could be used, to do it but one would need to watch carefully so one does not pull it up to far and pull over your mast,
one could use a capstan type winch as well,
people have done this by just pulling on the rope and dropping it,
Wellspring Africa's Hand Powered Percussion Drill
a few more links of intrest
http://www.consallen.com/How-to-drill_Cable-Percussion.pdf
http://www.consallen.com/forager/forager-200.htm
links in page for more info on bits and buckes and other tools that make the unit work,
there are U tube and some other sites geared for the thrid world on how to make your own tools,
some former discusions,
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/144891-well-drilling-power-take-off.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/159341-cable-drilling-winch.html
the cable/rope is threaded through a series of pulleys. and the "walking beam" the (teeter toter type arm), it purpose is to pull the cable up and then drop it,
by making, a crank (powered and geared down from the engine), the crank (with a roller) on the crank to reduce friction and wear, when the cable is down the walking beam is in the up position with the tail of it down, the crank comes around and catches under the beam and lifts it up on the tail end, moving the pulley end of it down pulling the cable up, as crank nears the top of the rotation, (in the drawing) it slips off and let the cable drop,
(the main draw back of this design is one will need to create a stop to limit the drop or watch it close so the crank can always get under the beam,
on the second, ( see video aobut 50 seconds into it),
the difference there is a swinging arm that is attached, to the crank and to the beam,( or directly to the pully) and the fixed section of the crank catches the arm at the top of the stoke (rotation of the crank), and then pulls/rotates it to the down position, and when it over centers at the bottom It allows the cable/rope to drop, or free fall, swinging up very fast, and as the slower crank comes back around catches the arm and pulls it down, and repeats the cycle.
(the idea is to pull the cable down and drop fast it so the bit can do it work of digging the hole), by letting the bit pulverize the dirt or soil in the hole,
(very similar to using a bar in a post hole to bust up the dirt, rock or what ever, in the bottom of the hole so it can be removed), after pulverizing the dirt a "bucket" with a one way vale is used to clear the mud out of the hole and once it is done you re enter with the bit and pound again when you have more mud than you can effectively pound through you bucket it out, and repeat, until you have the depth you want,
so having two winches one for the drilling bits and one for the bailer, is many times considered a plus,
the winch on the bit will need to have the ability to be let up little by little so the bit can lower and so the max length of drop can be obtained,
depending on the depth, and how large your unit is, one may just want to pull it by hand, under 100 feet it may be easiest, than using winches,
or a lawn tractor or car could be used, to do it but one would need to watch carefully so one does not pull it up to far and pull over your mast,
one could use a capstan type winch as well,
people have done this by just pulling on the rope and dropping it,
Wellspring Africa's Hand Powered Percussion Drill
a few more links of intrest
http://www.consallen.com/How-to-drill_Cable-Percussion.pdf
http://www.consallen.com/forager/forager-200.htm
links in page for more info on bits and buckes and other tools that make the unit work,
there are U tube and some other sites geared for the thrid world on how to make your own tools,
some former discusions,
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/144891-well-drilling-power-take-off.html
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/159341-cable-drilling-winch.html
Last edited:
o2batsea
Platinum Member
My late FIL used a capstan powered by a fairly large Briggs engine in his test boring business. The rope was passed around the capstan one or two turns and when you pulled on the tail of the rope it would tighten around the capstan and lift up the bit. Letting off on the rope it would lose grip on the capstan and it would drop. I have a home movie of him operating the rig. Hard work.
Egon
Epic Contributor
You could run Capstan or cat head off on of the driving wheels of vehicle or tractor. 
In another time the rear wheel of a P/U did a lot of pipe threading and cutting.
In another time the rear wheel of a P/U did a lot of pipe threading and cutting.
guys please comment about this what do you think? works? or need some work.
http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/8554/22013375.jpg
http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/8554/22013375.jpg
Egon
Epic Contributor
That should work. You may consider having the cable on the lever arm going around a roller or shiv and then down to a winch so you can lower the tools while pounding.
A different way of drilling the well is to keep all the topside stuff you have shown but discard the drill bit and replace it with one to one and a half inch pipe with a chisel bit and check valve on the bottom. You'd have to rotate the drill stem by hand.
The bit is just a piece of pipe with a steel ball and seat in it with a piece of truck spring welded to it that is the length of the diameter you want the hole to be. Also some holes below the ball and seat in the pipe.
One digs a sump about three feet deep and then uses a post hole auger to go down another six to eight feet or so. Put a piece of steel pipe in this hole as casing that comes just below level to the surface of the ground. Fill it up with water and start drilling. The chisel point loosens the soil in the hole and the ball and seat with the drill stem moving up and down make a pump which brings up the cuttings and leaves them in the sump to settle out.
When you hit water the sump starts overflowing.:thumbsup:
A different way of drilling the well is to keep all the topside stuff you have shown but discard the drill bit and replace it with one to one and a half inch pipe with a chisel bit and check valve on the bottom. You'd have to rotate the drill stem by hand.
The bit is just a piece of pipe with a steel ball and seat in it with a piece of truck spring welded to it that is the length of the diameter you want the hole to be. Also some holes below the ball and seat in the pipe.
One digs a sump about three feet deep and then uses a post hole auger to go down another six to eight feet or so. Put a piece of steel pipe in this hole as casing that comes just below level to the surface of the ground. Fill it up with water and start drilling. The chisel point loosens the soil in the hole and the ball and seat with the drill stem moving up and down make a pump which brings up the cuttings and leaves them in the sump to settle out.
When you hit water the sump starts overflowing.:thumbsup:
Egon
Epic Contributor
Egon
Epic Contributor
Did some watching on you tube and found these. Similar in method but slight differences in construction. The one my Father and Grandfather made was very little actual work as the drill stem was raised by a walking beam driven by a small motor. All the "Driller" had to do was turn the drill stem by hand.
The last one will give a very good idea of how it is done. Note the clay they dumped into the hole. This acts as a sealer as the hole gets deeper and prevents the loss of water to the soil layers in the well bore.
Happy drilling!
YouTube - Constructing a Drill Bit for Water Well Drilling Using the Baptist Method
YouTube - Manual Drilling
YouTube - agua:yaku Manual Water Well Drilling Project Promo
YouTube - EMAS well drilling, Part 1 of 2
The last one will give a very good idea of how it is done. Note the clay they dumped into the hole. This acts as a sealer as the hole gets deeper and prevents the loss of water to the soil layers in the well bore.
Happy drilling!
YouTube - Constructing a Drill Bit for Water Well Drilling Using the Baptist Method
YouTube - Manual Drilling
YouTube - agua:yaku Manual Water Well Drilling Project Promo
YouTube - EMAS well drilling, Part 1 of 2
BHD
Veteran Member
did you watch the video I posted, about 50 seconds to one minuet into the video,
YouTube - Philippines: Drilling Deep Well
and I did sketch out a picture the crank would be powered by a gear reduced system off a motor,
I my self think some thing with more of a free fall system would work more effectively than some thing that has a slow rate of fall, (the cutting bit).
I really don't know how to draw it out any more for you, with out either a measured drawing or a isometric drawing and I do not have time for that,
some one else posted the link to vintage windmill-parts that showed a small rig that some one made from a old lawn mower, with a swing arm on it to allow for a free fall drop,
I really do not know how to explain it any more,
How deep are you trying to drill.
YouTube - Philippines: Drilling Deep Well
and I did sketch out a picture the crank would be powered by a gear reduced system off a motor,
I my self think some thing with more of a free fall system would work more effectively than some thing that has a slow rate of fall, (the cutting bit).
I really don't know how to draw it out any more for you, with out either a measured drawing or a isometric drawing and I do not have time for that,
some one else posted the link to vintage windmill-parts that showed a small rig that some one made from a old lawn mower, with a swing arm on it to allow for a free fall drop,
I really do not know how to explain it any more,
How deep are you trying to drill.