Penetrating fluid secrets

[Old Red]

I use aerakroil.

 

[the old grind]

Ive used Kroil and PBlaster for years and neither is instantaneous. Acetone/ATF works better as long as you shake it a lot. For best results, degrease the outside and re-apply, or just add more acetone once the rusty bit is oil-wet.

WD-40, Fluid Film, and several other popular lubes/solvents will encapsulate rather than dissolve rust. For a DIY, add TBS each naphthalene (old type smelly moth crystals) and turpentine to a pint each of deodorized mineral spirits and 10 wt oil. If it smells like Kroil, so what.

I like the less odorous Gibbs as well as Kroil, so I have an untapped gallon of the latter to top up smaller cans in the barn garage, and machine shop. Gibbs is plastic-safe that I know of, and best of all doesn't leak out of it's container. My Kroil cans often sit in tin cans till they're empty, just pouring from the catch can as needed, tho' the naphthalene (solvent) tends to evaporate out somewhat.

Nothing works instantly, as soak time is always a 'must', and sometimes 24 hrs isn't long enough. Here's a job I daubed Kroil onto for weeks to work it in, using a Q-tip to wipe it under the flange, where the wheel-head and motor rest/rotate on/inside the column sleeve. They had been rusted in position for >10yrs denying rotation of the head/spindle in the X-Y plane. I took this pic when propping the head up to swap-out Cinci T&CG's 440v 3-Ph power for DC treadmill motor (w/diode bridge and HFT router speed controller .. ) What worked to get it freed up was secondary to applying it where needed.

 

[shaeff]

I always hit whatever I can with a good stiff wire brush first. I've always used PB Blast, it works alright. If the Blast and some tapping on it doesn't take it off, I move on to heating it with the torch. If that doesn't do it, I do the torch to a cherry red, then melt candle wax into it as it cools. Then walk away until it's cold and whatever it is usually comes right apart. The wax trick was taught to me by a very old mechanic, it really works very well.

Edit: Unless I'm working on something like oldgrind is doing up there^. That takes precision, patience, and more patience. Well done!

 

[CobyRupert]

Deleted

 

[firemech]

PB Blaster or Releasall works for me most of the time.

 

[devildog1]

PB Blaster is what GE uses when taking apart turbine and nuke valves along with generator valves, my belief it's one of the best.
DevilDog

 

[Cat_Driver]

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load on stuck bolt *

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

Penetrating Oil Showdown!!! | The H.A.M.B.

 

[Paystar]

I use Krown. And it's the same stuff we undercoat our vehicles with here. So that's an added bonus, anytime you work on your vehicles nothing is ever seized.

 

[rScotty]

We are lucky enough to live in a low humidity area where salt isn't used on the roads. Old machinery that has stood outside in the weather for years barely rusts at all. What rust we do get is a patina rather than corrosion. So we get by with Liquid Wrench or just some light oil. I do tend to lube threads before putting them back together, and that's often all that is required here.
My sympathies go out to the mechanics that have to deal with salt & heavy rust.
rScotty

 

[Paystar]

Yes it is horrible here rScotty. The salt and the liquid de-icing agents they use rot everything. And I am constantly chasing green wires and plugs on the big trucks.
And half the time it's not even safe, because they get lazy now and don't plow, they just pour the salt to the highways and it just makes thick slush which is worse to drive on than ice.