Penetrating oils

   / Penetrating oils #31  
Soundguy said:
I havn't bought any this year.. I'm still ging on the multiple 1g jugs I picked up last year when i was doing some painting and rusty iron rust-o-ration. At 1$ a jug I was hoarding it... If it's gone up.. guess when i run out I'll move over to the next cheapest solvent that will do the job.

Soundguy

Your real mistake is not restoring JD green stuff...because it never rusts...:rolleyes: :D

Oh and your comment about not holding your breath(something about waiting for scientific feedback)...when you are using some of these concoctions...IF you are NOT holding your breath...at least use a respirator...:D
 
   / Penetrating oils #32  
I doubt a standard NIOSH respirator would do any good.. even some of the charcoal lined ones. i'd think you'd need a full organic cartridge for any benefits. I also doubt I'm breathing in any more than when i stand at the fuel pump and fuel my diesel pickup.. or my tractor. I don't make a habit of sniffing my parts after spraying them with penetrating oil ...;)

As for JD green stuff not rusting.. sorry... I have restored jd stuff.. and as a matter of fact.. my 1950 model B ( styled ) was one of the rustiest pieces I have worked on.. with my ford NAA being a close second... Both of 'em required a tetanus shot if you planned to stand closer than 3 feet...

Soundguy
 
   / Penetrating oils #33  
You folks using wax for assembly, arn't y'all worried it's going to change torque specs, possibly causing an over torque situation? I ask this because in some applications, they specifically say not to use anti-seize. Things like anti-seize act as a lubricant, so one can end up over torquing a nut/bolt/spark plug easily.
 
   / Penetrating oils #34  
crabjoe said:
You folks using wax for assembly, arn't y'all worried it's going to change torque specs, possibly causing an over torque situation? I ask this because in some applications, they specifically say not to use anti-seize. Things like anti-seize act as a lubricant, so one can end up over torquing a nut/bolt/spark plug easily.

On critical torqued components I would follow the manufacturers spec's. Depending on the manufacturer it could be dry, oil lubricated or like Caterpillar they have their own specific bolt thread lubricant used for things like head, rod and main bolts. For non critical components I use the good old German spec's, goodentight.
 
 
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