farmall 55a case
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2011
- Messages
- 506
- Tractor
- case ih farmall 55a
305 are good engines id just leave it in there if it was mine until it went bad! If you need more power put a four barrel intake and Carb on it!
Picked up a 1970 GMC C3500 dump truck that needs some TLC
- Thread starter pclausen
- Start date
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pclausen
Veteran Member
I went to Advance this morning after ordering the tune up parts online since that gave me a 20% discount being the day after Black Friday. So for under $100 bucks, I picked up the following:
In the confusion because I picked up a few other items that I did not pre-order, he somehow didn't ring up the 5qt container of synthetic oil!
I did the plugs first and boy were they all super easy to get too! Nothing like a modern car with all that emission stuff on them. I then attempted to do the fuel filter, but the one I picked up, which is supposed to be the OEM one for a 305 (I used a 1977 GMC C1500 since it was an option), was way too long as seen here:
There wasn't a filter in there to begin with, so maybe I'm not putting it in the right spot? So I just reconnected the fuel line with no filter and proceeded to degrease the engine. Here's a shot of the carb once I was done. Perhaps those numbers indicate this being a non-standard carb? Note also that there's a bolt missing from where the carb is mounted to the intake manifold. There is one missing on the other side as well, so perhaps this is not the original 305 carb?
I replaced the distributor, rotor and wires next. Looks half way decent now!
After re-installing the air filter:
I then pored 1/3 pint of seafoam into the almost empty fuel tank, and pored the other 2/3 pint slowly down the carb with the engine running. I then shut it off for 5 minutes and started it back up. Boy did it smoke for a good 3 or 4 minutes! I then jumped in and went for a ride down to the local gas station about 3 miles away. No hesitation at all, and no missing. Ran good and there was no smoke from the exhaust when I got on it. All gauges worked. I filled it up (appears to have a 20 gallon tank) with regular and headed back home.
I then raised the bed and now that the truck was warm, I had no issue getting the pto engaged and then move the other lever to engage the valve. Here's a shot with the bed raised:
Another shot from the other side showing the hydraulic holding tank, and the bling bling hub caps! There is no inline filter, so I'll be sure to change out the hydraulic fluid soon, before I actually have a load to dump. Any ideas on what to use?
Shot from behind showing the well used bed.
I also replaced the headlight switch. That took care of the issue with the high beams being on all the time when the battery is connected (and that red light in the speedometer gauge). Turns out someone has shorted 2 of the pins together on the old switch. I guess they were too cheap to spend the 11 bucks for a new light switch!
While the 305 ran fine, it is no powerhouse in this truck. I had to downshift on any incline and I can only imagine how it would be hauling a full load. Fortunately, I will mostly just be hauling stuff around on my property, spending most of the time in granny 1st, so no big deal. Besides, I got my duramax for any over the road hauling.
So $1200 for the truck and $100 in tune up parts, and this thing is ready to go to work! All I need to do now is to get a 4x8 sheet of plywood, rip it down the middle, paint both pieces black, and bolt then onto the bed to restore the sides that were cut out.
I would like to put a tach in it as I have no idea how high I'm been revving the engine on hills. My gut tells me mid 4000s, but I have have been closer to 5k. I'll look to see if there was a factory option that would drop in that huge opening that is just for the fuel gauge right now.
In the confusion because I picked up a few other items that I did not pre-order, he somehow didn't ring up the 5qt container of synthetic oil!
I did the plugs first and boy were they all super easy to get too! Nothing like a modern car with all that emission stuff on them. I then attempted to do the fuel filter, but the one I picked up, which is supposed to be the OEM one for a 305 (I used a 1977 GMC C1500 since it was an option), was way too long as seen here:
There wasn't a filter in there to begin with, so maybe I'm not putting it in the right spot? So I just reconnected the fuel line with no filter and proceeded to degrease the engine. Here's a shot of the carb once I was done. Perhaps those numbers indicate this being a non-standard carb? Note also that there's a bolt missing from where the carb is mounted to the intake manifold. There is one missing on the other side as well, so perhaps this is not the original 305 carb?
I replaced the distributor, rotor and wires next. Looks half way decent now!
After re-installing the air filter:
I then pored 1/3 pint of seafoam into the almost empty fuel tank, and pored the other 2/3 pint slowly down the carb with the engine running. I then shut it off for 5 minutes and started it back up. Boy did it smoke for a good 3 or 4 minutes! I then jumped in and went for a ride down to the local gas station about 3 miles away. No hesitation at all, and no missing. Ran good and there was no smoke from the exhaust when I got on it. All gauges worked. I filled it up (appears to have a 20 gallon tank) with regular and headed back home.
I then raised the bed and now that the truck was warm, I had no issue getting the pto engaged and then move the other lever to engage the valve. Here's a shot with the bed raised:
Another shot from the other side showing the hydraulic holding tank, and the bling bling hub caps! There is no inline filter, so I'll be sure to change out the hydraulic fluid soon, before I actually have a load to dump. Any ideas on what to use?
Shot from behind showing the well used bed.
I also replaced the headlight switch. That took care of the issue with the high beams being on all the time when the battery is connected (and that red light in the speedometer gauge). Turns out someone has shorted 2 of the pins together on the old switch. I guess they were too cheap to spend the 11 bucks for a new light switch!
While the 305 ran fine, it is no powerhouse in this truck. I had to downshift on any incline and I can only imagine how it would be hauling a full load. Fortunately, I will mostly just be hauling stuff around on my property, spending most of the time in granny 1st, so no big deal. Besides, I got my duramax for any over the road hauling.
So $1200 for the truck and $100 in tune up parts, and this thing is ready to go to work! All I need to do now is to get a 4x8 sheet of plywood, rip it down the middle, paint both pieces black, and bolt then onto the bed to restore the sides that were cut out.
I would like to put a tach in it as I have no idea how high I'm been revving the engine on hills. My gut tells me mid 4000s, but I have have been closer to 5k. I'll look to see if there was a factory option that would drop in that huge opening that is just for the fuel gauge right now.
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
The rods are bent a little below the bed, but after working the linkage a bit, it now goes in and out with ease.
I did check that when replacing the rotor and it appears to be working well. The issue I believe was the 2 of the 8 posts on the distributor were very corroded so I think I was only running on 6 cylinders, if that, before the tuneup. It revs instantaneously now with no hesitation.
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
Sounds like a plan going forward. I lucked out and got a free 5qt container of 10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic today, so I'll be running that for the next year.
[quite]One more thing. If i had your truck, I would dump a quart of ATF or engine flush and run it a bit before changing the oil. Get the engine nice and warm with the stuff and hopefully knock some crud out of the engine.[/QUOTE]
Darn, I knew I should have checked the forum again after getting back with the supplies before starting!
Kioti guy
Silver Member
- Joined
- May 26, 2011
- Messages
- 191
- Location
- Severn Bridge Ontario
- Tractor
- 2011 kioti ck 20S Hst,Case D
What a cool truck,I would have payed twice what you payed no questions asked. Great find ...Craig
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
Well that figures. It would appear that GM has a real plain dash (what I have), or a full dash with a full set of gauges. In order to get a tach, one would have to get a "tach conversion kit" like this one:
Only they don't work with HEI drisrtibutors...
So that would mean going aftermarket and get something like this:
It sure is a nice unit, but it cost almost as much as what I paid for the entire truck! May when I retire in another 15-20 years and if I still have the GMC, who knows, maybe I'll do this. In the meantime, I suppose I can get a cheap tach and mount elsewhere in the dash or something.
Only they don't work with HEI drisrtibutors...
So that would mean going aftermarket and get something like this:
It sure is a nice unit, but it cost almost as much as what I paid for the entire truck! May when I retire in another 15-20 years and if I still have the GMC, who knows, maybe I'll do this. In the meantime, I suppose I can get a cheap tach and mount elsewhere in the dash or something.
Stimw
Elite Member
The good news is the HEI has a terminal for a Tach. I just don't remember what kind of Tach worked on it but I'm sure google will tell you.
OP
pclausen
Veteran Member
Doing some additional research, the conversion kit just might work!
Is Original tach compatible with HEI ?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
Is Original tach compatible with HEI ?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network
murphy1244
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2011
- Messages
- 20,038
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
The next dizzy cap you buy make sure it has brass contacts, those alum ones are no good.
deerefan
Veteran Member
Nice buy. I see some folks are trying to talk you into a 350. They are easy to find and you can build a stout one for a grand, maybe less. I rebuilt a 305 for a 1/2 ton GMC, an 86 model. It was a low compression 2 bl carb engine, similar to what you have. I had the engine bored .030 and the heads shaved .015 with a light port job. I installed an rv cam with a power range from idle to 4k. Not real radical, slight lope at idle. I installed a used low profile Weiand intake matched to the cam and had the machinist match the port job done to the heads. I topped the intake with a 500cfm 4bl carb manual choke. The owner of the truck had access to a dyno. The engine made 231hp and 319tq. I was impressed. Good power for a 305. When we installed it back in the truck we threw a set of headers on it with dual exhaust. Sounded nice. The nicest part was the engine made peak tq at 3k rpm. He towed his boat and a small camper for several years with this combo. A 350 will definitely make better power but the 305 can make good power too if done right.