VTMike
New member
How did you install the new spherical bushings? I cracked the main swing frame and need to install a new one. I have the old one out and the bushings are good I'm just not sure on how to get things back together.
Backhoe Pin/Bushing replacement in Woods 750 Backhoe
- Thread starter Dataway
- Start date
OP
Dataway
Gold Member
I had to destroy the old bearing to get it out, basically scored it with a cut-off wheel and broke it apart. The new bearing had to driven onto the pivot pin, very tight fit. My main swing frame had also cracked, obviously a design problem. I welded it up and reinforced it and was able to use it again.
Pressed for time right now. I'll post again later with more details.
Pressed for time right now. I'll post again later with more details.
OP
Dataway
Gold Member
The lower spherical bearing fits into a pocket of the Main Frame ... again a tight fit. You drive the Kingpin into the lower spherical bearing ... then tilt it up through the notch in the top side of the "Kingpin Weldment" and drive the top spherical bearing on the top of the Kingpin, the bolt on the cap to hold it in place.
Did you remove the top spherical bearing from the King pin? If not it can be a real pain, maybe impossible to get the lower kingpin into the lower bearing. Although it might be possible to put the top of the kingpin through the slot and lift up the whole kingpin weldment enough to get the lower pin into the lower spherical bearing.
Good diagrams here: Woods BH75 -3 Backhoe Parts Diagrams
I ended up buying the spherical bearing from a bearing supply place on Amazon: GEZ1 8ES-2RS Spherical Plain Bearing, 1-1/2 x 2-7/16 x 1-5/16 Inch, Double Sealed: Deep Groove Ball Bearings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
They were about $35 instead of $57 for the Woods part.
I would strongly suggest replacing them while you have it apart. But they can be a REAL pain to get off the Kingpin ... like I said, had to destroy them to get them off. After trying press, yank, jack etc. I ended up scoring them with a cut-off wheel, whacking with a chisel and they cracked right open. The lower spherical bearing gets trashed very commonly because they are under a lot of stress and often the grease fitting on the underside is bunged up, or covered in dirt so people don't grease them.
The whole job is a pain in the butt, so best wishes, hope the repair goes well.
Did you remove the top spherical bearing from the King pin? If not it can be a real pain, maybe impossible to get the lower kingpin into the lower bearing. Although it might be possible to put the top of the kingpin through the slot and lift up the whole kingpin weldment enough to get the lower pin into the lower spherical bearing.
Good diagrams here: Woods BH75 -3 Backhoe Parts Diagrams
I ended up buying the spherical bearing from a bearing supply place on Amazon: GEZ1 8ES-2RS Spherical Plain Bearing, 1-1/2 x 2-7/16 x 1-5/16 Inch, Double Sealed: Deep Groove Ball Bearings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
They were about $35 instead of $57 for the Woods part.
I would strongly suggest replacing them while you have it apart. But they can be a REAL pain to get off the Kingpin ... like I said, had to destroy them to get them off. After trying press, yank, jack etc. I ended up scoring them with a cut-off wheel, whacking with a chisel and they cracked right open. The lower spherical bearing gets trashed very commonly because they are under a lot of stress and often the grease fitting on the underside is bunged up, or covered in dirt so people don't grease them.
The whole job is a pain in the butt, so best wishes, hope the repair goes well.
VTMike
New member
Thanks for the information. I broke the main weldment so I took a sawsall and cut the weldment so I could remove the bushings without destroying them. I have everything apart but I'm not sure how to reassemble. It looks like I need to press the bushing on the lower king pin and then set the unit in the frame. I'm not sure it will fit. Thought about using a grinder to remove the lower bushing pocket. Press everything together from the bottom and re-weld.
OP
Dataway
Gold Member
Yep, you can't get the kingpin weldment in all the way without either having the lower bearing installed on the lower pin, or, if remember correctly I put the bearing in the main weldment and then drove the kingpin weldment down into it. Then it will move far enough down that you can move the upper pin through the slot in the main weldment.
I think the problem I was having was, if the bearing is pressed on to the lower pin, it becomes a real pain to get the bearing shell to stay aligned well enough to drive it into the lower pocket in the main weldment. So I got the lower bearing into the lower pocket first ... then I used a 1" rod (or whatever size rod fit the ID of the bearing) inserted into the bottom of the bearing to hold the ID vertical while I drove the pin into it. Otherwise the bearing inner race will cock sideways when you try to drive the pin in from the top.
But you are on the right track, the key is the lower bearing. The reason I put the bearing in the pocket first was because I couldn't find a way to hold the outer race aligned well enough to get it in the pocket if it was already installed on the lower pin. But I could use my rod trick to hold the inner race aligned if the bearing was in the lower pocket first.
Jeez, this must be confusing to someone that hasn't worked on one
I think the problem I was having was, if the bearing is pressed on to the lower pin, it becomes a real pain to get the bearing shell to stay aligned well enough to drive it into the lower pocket in the main weldment. So I got the lower bearing into the lower pocket first ... then I used a 1" rod (or whatever size rod fit the ID of the bearing) inserted into the bottom of the bearing to hold the ID vertical while I drove the pin into it. Otherwise the bearing inner race will cock sideways when you try to drive the pin in from the top.
But you are on the right track, the key is the lower bearing. The reason I put the bearing in the pocket first was because I couldn't find a way to hold the outer race aligned well enough to get it in the pocket if it was already installed on the lower pin. But I could use my rod trick to hold the inner race aligned if the bearing was in the lower pocket first.
Jeez, this must be confusing to someone that hasn't worked on one
VTMike
New member
All done. Not a bad job. Much easier to reassemble that get it apart.
OP
Dataway
Gold Member
Excellent ... a big job, always a relief to get it done.
VTMike
New member
Yep, good to get that one done. Still waiting for the bolts for the top. Broke two and I couldn't find any here in VT. My little hydraulic press worked perfect. Made pressing everything back together much easier. Still not sure how/why I pulled the cylinder pin out of the swing frame. Need to check hydraulics to make sure I'm not over pressuring.