Piot Bearing Puller Tool

[QueBota]

Anybody have a favorite "best value" kit. My local Advanced Auto Parts Zone offers a free rental with deposit but the quality of the tool is lacking. Looks like it hasn't been treated well. Changing the clutch on my '91 Ford Ranger, flywheel looks new, not going to remove, however, will be replacing the pilot bearing, came with the clutch kit.

My son has been riding his Ninja all summer, needs something for the colder months. My Ranger has been sitting in the driveway with a blown slave cylinder. Ford decided to locate the slave cylinder inside the bell housing. At 150K more than half of the friction material on the clutch disk is present and the friction surfaces on the flywheel and pressure plate look like new.

Going to replace everything while we are in there. Was a bear getting apart, after 25 years, most the of parts were very friendly with each other.

Any recommendations appreciated.

Thanks,
Q

 

[davesl708]

I would give the rental a try. Not very often you need to pull bearings. Harbor Freight, North Star have lower cost pullers. Would probably do ok on a low usage basis.

 

[QueBota]

Good idea, I may go to another location and check their offering. The one that I looked at this morning was very sloppy, don't want to damage the bore. Would remove the flywheel but it looks perfect, I could picture snapping off a mounting bolt, everything else has been a struggle, no way to hit the flywheel to crank bolts with Kroil.

I have lot's of tools, but not a pilot bearing puller or anything that I could modify to perform the task. The input shaft of the tranny is approx. 9/16" where it enters the pilot bearing. Pilot bearing looks good also but not replacing it doesn't seem prudent.

Looking for this style, not the two finger style the local places offer for rental:
Amazon.com: OTC 4581 Slide Hammer And Blind Hole Bearing Puller Set: Automotive


Why would you place a slave cylinder on the input shaft? The only advantage I can see is you eliminate the clutch fork. Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Q

 

[jaotguy]

pack the bearing hole with thick grease ... sand a wooden dowel to fit the hole exactly ... put dowel in center of hole and hit with hammer ... grease pushes the bearing out ..... may have to repack and do it a few times to get the air and bearing out ...

 

[Junkyard Jim]

What jaotguy said. Keep packin it and smackin it. You can use a bolt if you find one the just right size. Wear safety glasses.

 

[QueBota]

I have used that method in the past on pilot bushings, don't believe it will work on this bearing. Pilot bearing is a tight press fit in the flywheel bore plus has been in there for 25 years. Going to require a small hammer and appropriate size socket/bearing install drift + light lube to install.

If flywheel is removed manual instructions state "Press pilot bearing out of flywheel". Don't want to pull flywheel unless absolutely necessary, runout is minimal and friction surface and thickness are fine.

Thanks,
Q

 

[QueBota]

Went to a local tool rental place. They have a proper blind hole bearing puller set, similar to the one above. Made by S&K. Looks nice $12.99 for 24 hours plus a $200 refundable deposit. If I pick it up Friday after noon time I can return it Monday before 0900 for one days rental. Think I'm going to go for that, don't envision pulling many pilot bearings in the future. As much as I like tools don't think I need to buy this one. Have several others to purchase that would receive lots more use for the price of the puller.

Thanks,
Q

 

[Soundguy]

pack the bearing hole with thick grease ... sand a wooden dowel to fit the hole exactly ... put dowel in center of hole and hit with hammer ... grease pushes the bearing out ..... may have to repack and do it a few times to get the air and bearing out ...

BINGO!

I like this method better than the little 2 jaw screw pullers where you slip it in then run a bolt down to spread the thin arms and lips to get under the bearing / bushing.

those work.. but many times the hydraulic method is easier..

 

[QueBota]

The S&K version has expandable collets with four large flanges. It expands when you run the nut down the shaft then you lock it at the correct size. Useful to have the replacement bearing on hand, allows you to mark the shaft at the correct location so you pull on the bearing collar and not the flywheel, screw on the small slide hammer attachment and tap bearing free. Looks like if you did it correctly you could reuse the bearing if so inclined. The auto parts stores have the two finger versions for rent, didn't inspire confidence.

Don't believe the grease method would work on this application. Have used it successfully with bushings in the end of crankshafts. There is a lot of space behind the flywheel on this truck. Also the bearing is only a couple of thousands less than the bore of the flywheel, tight fit. And, I think the grease may be forced, if only marginally, between the needle bearings and the "dowel". When used on bushings there is near zero clearance between the dowel and the inner surface of the bushings.

Have reserved the tool for Friday afternoon pickup, worth the $12.99, will report back with results, hopefully all goes well, worse case, have to pull the flywheel and press out. Will make installing the new one easier. Entire job has been done on ramps, fortunately the Ranger is lifted and rolling on 33's, makes a little more room, but not much. Wish I had a shop with a lift, someday......

Talked to a freind that runs a local shop, told me it would cost around $1K for parts and labor to R&R the clutch, on a good day it's a $2K truck. I have had all the parts sitting on a shelf in my shop for several years. Paid less than $300 for all parts, including upgraded LUK clutch disk and pressure plate. Have been adding fluid as necessary until the slave cylinder finally @#it the bed. Tremendously large area to seal on the slave. Another reason I don't understand this "design".

Thanks,
Q

 

[George2615]

FWIW, I replaced a pilot bearing in a 66 year old 1 1/2T truck just a few months ago. I used the hydraulic method as mentioned. I used a clutch alignment tool that came with different size screw on tips (for different sized bearings). Used a tip that just fit inside the bearing. Filled with grease, insert tool, whack with hammer, repeat. After 3 whacks it came out. Not bad for being in there that long. I was going to rent the puller but last person that rented it never returned it according to the manager. Figured I'd give the grease method a shot and it worked very well.