Planning on a travel path

[DieselBound]

I'm guessing it looks like this with the blue being the ditch and the black being the fence.

You can't make the outside corner between the ditch and the corner of the fence.

So cut the corner by moving the fence to the red line. Why do a bunch of earth work when you can just move the fence?

View attachment 762529

Yeah, yeah, OK... Gotcha. Coupled with the notion of putting in a gate as cqaigy2 suggested (put across the space/line you have in red) might be a worthwhile solution to consider. I'll try looking at how I could make this work, if it could be made to: if I can retain my H-braces as end posts and put in new H-braces then that'll reduce holes to only two [note: I've got my posts set almost 4' in the ground - I used a skidsteer with an augur to do them- more to consider, though I'd still have had to figure out how I was going to drill the holes for the piers, so this might end up being easier in that regard]).

 

[LouNY]

It's not the ditch that I need/am looking to clean. I'm needing to clean along the fence line to keep stuff that grows from the ditch and attacks my fence.

I realized that, I was just saying that if you improve your access with piers or other improvements about the time you get finished the county will decide to clean the ditch out. In doing so all your work will be destroyed.

 

[DieselBound]

Lou, no, most of the structure/whatever would be on my property. I didn't expect to have anything substantial enough to really encroach (though it would be right "there"). BUT, as I started this thread with, it's really all a matter of how much pathway I would need as that would dictate how much I'd have to push out. It's possible that I would still be held back enough to not attract county mowers (though it's certainly a good idea to not tempt things!). Altering the fence as suggested (and placing a gate there) might meet all my requirements.

 

[oldnslo]

I Can’t tell looking at your picture but is the bottom of the fence high enough to run a front mount mower under. Neighbor has an old front mount zero turn that he modified gauge wheels to go under his fence row. Deck is scatched to heck but it keeps weeds and grass mowed under the fence line.

Just throwing other crazy options.

 

[DieselBound]

I Can’t tell looking at your picture but is the bottom of the fence high enough to run a front mount mower under. Neighbor has an old front mount zero turn that he modified gauge wheels to go under his fence row. Deck is scatched to heck but it keeps weeds and grass mowed under the fence line.

Just throwing other crazy options.

Hard to see the actual fencing material. It's woven wire (fixed-knot). Meant to keep most problem critters out (and my problem critters in): have it topped with an electric wire to help discourage crawlers.

 

[DieselBound]

For what it's worth, here's a picture from the inside of the fence. A bit better portrayal of the situation. I'd measured the distance between the H-braces and I've got roughly 12', which is a good size for an opening. Also did a quick measure of how much lateral room along the outside that I have and it's about 5': this widens up a little bit further down, in which case it's really about navigating this small area (again, I _might_ have to do a slight shoring up but it isn't likely going to be much or very difficult). Appears that I have a shot at being able to get my B7800 out here; it'll be a squeeze and there's no place to turn around further down- BUT, even going really slowly and backing it'll still be far more quick than doing this by hand!

Here's what lies further on down (dead end!):

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  FenceLineAfter.jpg

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