Please help me configure my B3030

[mpwr]

After doing lots a research (mostly here), and renting a BX24 for a weekend, I've decided to buy a B3030 this month. Could you folks advise me how to configure it?

Here are the basics:

• B3030HSD with Folding ROPS and R4's
• LA403 FEL
• Woods BH80-X with subframe and thumb (no independent pump)
• Brush hog

Here are some of the extras I think I should get:

• Loaded rear and foam-filled front tires
• Heavy duty alternator
• Rear work light
• Spark arresting muffler (lots of leaf litter in our woods)
• Grab and slip hooks on reinforcing bar on the loader
• Detachable toothbar for the loader

Have I forgotten anything I'd want to get at the onset?

Is the B3030 heavy enough for the BH80-X? Would I be better off with the BH70-X?

What's a good brush hog? I want to get into some tight places so I don't want one too wide.

Thanks for all your advise!

 

[rswyan]

Dunno what all your intended uses are but I use our B2910 for mowing so I skipped loading the rear tires - but given the slow leak issues I've had with the fronts I may foam when I replace them .... don't want that much weight in my rears - I can always add ballast.

The toothbar would be a good move, as well as the bucket hooks - I put a D-ring on the inside of my bucket in the center as well (but no slip hooks.) I welded on a piece of 2" x 3" x 1/4" angle to reinforce the top bucket lip and to provide a mounting surface for a grapple (eventually.)

On the alternator/lights I have a light bar with four 55w halogens on it (2 forward and 2 rearward) and I have not run into any problems requiring the HD alternator - but then I generally don't have them all turned on at the same time - usually only 2 at once.

I don't have a spark arresting muffler and I haven't started any fires yet.

You didn't mention rear remotes but I'd consider them as well - either stock or a third-party (I installed a Prince SV with 3 work sections)

If the FEL doesn't have a bucket level/angle indicator you might want to consider that - I find that I use mine constantly when doing FEL work.

Finally if it were me, I would be sorely tempted by the cab and heat/ac ..... the thought of trading in the 2910 on a 3030HSDC is very tempting.

 

[MadReferee]

Sounds like you have the right set of options.

However, I would skip the work light. At over $70 you can do much better at an auto parts store, especially if you get the HD alternator (which I think is a must have option). I have the Kubota work light and Wal-Mart sells the exact same thing for about $10. I got the HD alternator and 4 55W halogen bulbs on my canopy for use at night when snowblowing which is a much better option.

In addition, get a pair of rear remotes. The B3030 remotes are nicely integrated into the tractor in a similar manner as the Grand L series. This item is a definate must have.

Finally, have the rear tires loaded with Rim Guard. It is a much better product than WW fluid. There are plenty of dealers in Mass and NH that sell Rim Guard. It will cost less than $200 to fill your R4's but it will end up weighing more and be more environmentally friendly.

 

[ronjhall]

You may want to consider Pallet forks and Quick Coupler. I also have a front snow blade that fits the FEL. Here is a link to a thread on the subject. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/55046-fel-quick-hitch-b3030.html?highlight=b3030
Some TBNer's have also added a grapple for the bucket.
I work in the woods and dry area's. Not sure you need the spark arrester.

 

[ronjhall]

You do not have an attachment listed that would work good for ballast. You may want to consider a weight box. Instead of the BH or Rotary Cutter in the woods.

 

[lawn_king]

Order the fender mounted (remote) loader control & valve. I Have a landpride rotary cutter, its a well made machine.

 

[mpwr]

Thanks everyone for the fast response and detailed suggestions. You guys had some great ideas that I will incorporate into my shopping list.

Could I ask for a little further explanation of the utility of both the rear remotes and the remote loader control and valve?

Also, a question about Rim Guard. I'm not planning to mow the lawn (I have a Deere X300) but will have to go across it (e.g. when spreading mulch). Presuming the ground is dry, will I do a number on the grass if I do this with loaded R4's?

 

[LarryRB]

Living in Sudbury I can't see any need for filled tires, If anything, you will get into more trouble than it's worth... Too much rock, shale, ledge, and filled tires in our area spells trouble. I've had a lot of tractors in the last 30 years and never saw a "real" need for the tooth bar. I have the L 48, and won't use a thumb. Many do, and many bend dipper stick or piston. Do you forsee a real need for a thumb.. By chance would you know Paul Hurtig in Sudbury?

 

[VAMountains]

I highly recommend the cab. As for your backhoe question, I too would like to know the answer to that. I just got my b3030HSTC and would like to put one or the other of the models you suggested on the back.

 

[Timber]

I couldn’t imagine not having a tooth bar on my loader; you will never break into the ground without 1. I personally don't have a need to fill my tires and am not a fan of that but it really depends on what your doing with it. If you’re leaving the hoe on it all the time there is plenty of counter wt. The spark arrester will just cause you performance problems down the road. What are your plans for your tractor? What kind of property do you have? If you doing a lot of lawn cutting I probably wouldn't fill the tires but if you doing excavating all the time then maybe. I also if your spending the money on a nice woods hoe you would be nuts not to get the thumb. Imagine your hand with no thumb. That is how useful it changes your hoe. The only other thing I would cosider is a quick tach and a fork set. I personaly use my forks all the time