Pole barn header (top grit)

   / Pole barn header (top grit) #1  

mtDanE

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Good morning all,

I'm rebuilding my pole barn that collapsed under the snow load last winter. I have a question about how to secure the top girt that the trusses will be setting on. I'm using 6x6 posts and 2- 2x10 x16 girts sandwiching the post. the post are 8 feet apart. I have 2 posts per wall where there are butt joints. for the other posts I am using 2 - 1/2 x10" carriage bolts (galvanized), but for these post with the girt are butt jointed, it does not seem to enough material left at the end of the 2x10 to support the roof load. the old wall only had 1 2x10, butted and nailed with 5 spikes per board and it help for 40 years (it was not the cause of the failure by the way)

the inside walls will have 2x6x12 on 2' centers, insulated and sheathed with plywood.

I'm think I should be adding additional bracing in there in some fashion. what are your thoughts?

Thanks, Dan.
 
   / Pole barn header (top grit) #2  
Put your trusses on the post where they belong and then you only need another 2x6 of the top girt.
 
   / Pole barn header (top grit) #3  
Here is a book with a lot of good information. "Pole Building Projects" by Monte Burch. I found my copy at my local TSC.
 
   / Pole barn header (top grit)
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Put your trusses on the post where they belong and then you only need another 2x6 of the top girt.

I think I understand what you are saying, my trusses will be lining up (on top of) with the posts and 2x6. I was not thinking that the posts and 2x6 were going to take weight, I thought it was the girt. by the way the posts are on 8' centers and the trusses are on 2' centers. Dan...
 
   / Pole barn header (top grit) #5  
Do it like you are planning. 3" of 2x10 is sufficent.

But I would add a 16" or so peice of 2x6 nailed to the 6x6 under the header. So the header is basically sitting to that peice of 2x6 as well as bolted to the 6x6
 
   / Pole barn header (top grit) #6  
Good morning all,

I'm rebuilding my pole barn that collapsed under the snow load last winter. I have a question about how to secure the top girt that the trusses will be setting on. I'm using 6x6 posts and 2- 2x10 x16 girts sandwiching the post. the post are 8 feet apart. I have 2 posts per wall where there are butt joints. for the other posts I am using 2 - 1/2 x10" carriage bolts (galvanized), but for these post with the girt are butt jointed, it does not seem to enough material left at the end of the 2x10 to support the roof load. the old wall only had 1 2x10, butted and nailed with 5 spikes per board and it help for 40 years (it was not the cause of the failure by the way)

the inside walls will have 2x6x12 on 2' centers, insulated and sheathed with plywood.

I'm think I should be adding additional bracing in there in some fashion. what are your thoughts?

Thanks, Dan.

Use Simpson angle and T-brackets--two brackets per joint on each side of the beam-and 1/2" hex bolts-hot dip galvanized

DSCF0095 (Small).JPG
 
   / Pole barn header (top grit) #7  
You will have enough wood left with your 1/2" bolts as planned but like said above, nail a piece of 2"x6" under each joint and it will help a lot. You should also put in angle braces (2"x6" or better yet 4"x6") this will distribute the load and make the span less and in doing so will take some of the weight off the joint.
Good luck.
 
   / Pole barn header (top grit) #8  
I you have to use a header like that why not notch in at least one of the plys?
 
   / Pole barn header (top grit) #9  
I you have to use a header like that why not notch in at least one of the plys?

I hate notching in. Especially if it is on a wall side. Because youeither have to double the top header to get it away from the post, or you also have to notch in the nailers all the way down the wall for the siding.

But if it is an open-sided building, it wouldnt hurt anything.
 
   / Pole barn header (top grit) #10  
I took down a 50 x 100 pole barn that had 6x6 posts 12' oc with trusses 4' oc. The girt was 2x10 each side of the post capped with third 2x10. The top 2x10s butted mid span between posts & added much lateral stiffness to the wall. Girt members were all nailed. There was no diagonal bracing anywhere, stood from late 60s until 2002. Trusses were hand nailed up thru the top plate of the girt, probably would be easier today with a nailgun. I'm guessing the inner girt was installed after the trusses were in place for ease of nailing the trusses. The 50' (54' overall) trusses were site build. MikeD74T
 
 
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