I have side sliding doors. Similar to above, a center T for the doors meeting in the middle. Where the doors meet, they have a square edge trim on one side, and a C track on the other. Available from any of the siding/trim manufacturers. I hope the C channel you bought is of the door frame/trim type. My shop doors use gluelam horizontal (think girts) supports and steel C channel for the perimeter (definitely formed sheet metal, not extruded steel; 12' tall). The horse barn doors (under 8' tall) are 2x6 framed. Both use generic barn sheet metal and trim. The horse barn doors are a PITA (they tend to warp).
The horse barn uses wheels along the outer edge of the doors. The shop uses the inverted T and track for the outer edge (out of the way of the pathway into the barn; the outside door ends are mounted in this). The shop is much sturdier. The shop uses a large inverted metal V on both doors at the center, with a hog ring (as it looks un-used) as a latch (slides over the V's and tightens up as you push it down). Works great, very easy to lock (cable works).
Where I have a problem is snow blowing past the door on the windward side. Some solutions I have had success with, and the problems with them:
-Horse barn: I used the plastic strips (with the molded on lath) used on generic house garage doors for the top. They work ok, but tore a bit on the primary door that gets opened. Fairly inexpensive. They are too hard to put real tight against the door. I added extension strips to the tops of the door frames (inside). I cut up some scrap panel pieces we had and screwed them to the existing door; looks ok, as it matches the door panels. I don't think the trim over the door hanger bar was sized large enough (to cover the doors enough -- the snow blows over it into the barn). I also used the trim on the sides (on the inside). I also made some 2x6 slid in pieces for the bottoms of the windward doors (we don't use these doors daily or when there is any weather). I laid them into the slot between the floor (as suggested above, it is above the bottom of the doors, which are above the outside ramps/aprons). On the bottoms of the boards, I nailed soft rubber door bottoms for a wood type overhead garage door. The fit snugly with the rubber. I screwed strips of OSB on top of the 2x6, offset so they hang over the door bottoms and slide over pins I installed on the door bottoms (2 on each door). I put old cabinet handles on top them to pull them off. The pins are lag bolts I put in and cut the heads off. This way they fit tightly, have an overlapping seal on top, and a rubber seal on the bottom (if needed, it should be offset to seal between the concrete and wood). The coup de gras is the over center latches on the door ends. That clamps the doors to the seals as much as I could. They also are useful to open the doors part way -- they hook into a cross support (2x) on the door, so it just takes drilling holes as needed.
This works ok. I still get leaks around the sides. This is because the side frames of the doors don't have much overlap with the seals and the seals don't have enough flexibility to conform to the doors when I really need them (when it's cold). Still, it works ok. No hay near the door opening anyhow (just in case, especially in the summer and a squall were to blow in with the doors open). My wish: I would add to the inside of the door frame and nail some of the soft rubber wood garage door bottom to the door side (and put some edging inside the door frame) to increase the contact area -- but the door opening is too small as it is.
My shop: as before, doors are a good and stable start. The sides of the doors have a strip of the wood-garage-door bottom seal nailed to it. I need to go over this and nail/screw some lath over it, as it is held with roofing nails and they sometimes pull loose (and not as even a contact strip as the rubber can move where not nailed tightly). I also need to follow up and make door bottom skirts (see my 2x6 creation above) and install the over center latches I bought for this a few years ago. I am glad the doors were made with heavy sheet metal trim (straight) and the horizontal gluelams (also straight, nailable and are a bit less cold). Almost forgot, there are J hooks (maybe a better description is interlocking hooks) along the outside edges when the doors are closed. Hmm, maybe I should look at fitting these on the horse barn. Took me a lot of years to put that thought together. Anyhow, the hooks are generic trim for the door opening (barn side) trim the hook into the trim on the door edge. Nothing but metal, so not weather tight.
I bought a couple of strips of the
Good luck with deciding what works for you.