Pole building construction pictures

[westbrooklawn]

I haven't read this whole thread, so excuse me if my question was answered earlier, but what is the spacing between the roof trusses? It appears to be around 6' or so... will the metal ceiling span that distance without sagging in the middle of the span? Is the metal 29ga.? I have a similar building and had thought about putting in a metal ceiling, but I was thinking I would have to frame additional support between the trusses to support the ceiling... maybe not?

 

[Duffster]

I haven't read this whole thread, so excuse me if my question was answered earlier, but what is the spacing between the roof trusses? It appears to be around 6' or so... will the metal ceiling span that distance without sagging in the middle of the span? Is the metal 29ga.? I have a similar building and had thought about putting in a metal ceiling, but I was thinking I would have to frame additional support between the trusses to support the ceiling... maybe not?

I have done dozens like this on 8' centers and it works great even with blown insulation.

 

[smfcpacfp]

Below is a picture of the insulation, which as you can see is bare batts. I put it in as I was putting the metal ceiling up. The ceiling came in 3 by 12 foot sections. I am not sure what the gauge is, but it is the same stuff that is used on the exterior. I am sure there is some sag, but it is minimal as you can see from the picture. I figured the ribbing in the metal would minimize any sag, and it did.

The trusses are 6 foot on center, so the metal works out just right as the room is 15 wide, 24 long and the metal runs the long way - 10 pieces altogether. I can access the attic from the side as 3/4 of the building is open, cold storage - the workshop is only 1/4 of the building. I did all of the wiring after I put up the stud walls. I have three dedicated 20 amp 120 volt circuits for the inside of the shop and one 20 amp 240 volt for some of my power tools and a 50 amp 240 volt circuit for my welder. I have plenty of outlets and lights.

 

[smfcpacfp]

Below are pictures of the insulation going up and then a picture with the insulation completed. You will notice there is no door, but I do have a big door opening, big enough to get my tractor in my workshop.

I am a quandary as to what kind of door to use. I was leaning towards a slide by door which would almost the full height and width of the opening. I could even have a roll up garage door that rolls up out of the room, or maybe two doors hinged on each side and open in the center. Any ideas out there?

 

[Ford tractor]

I see you got the building up in 3 1/2 days. I did an extension of 28 x 32 on mine a few years back and it took 3 1/2 weeks. But the labor crew was pretty poor (me ). Still, to save the thousands of $$ it was worth it.

In WI the temps are about the same, but the snow is less. The non-heated non-insulated cement I laid for the shop in the original pole barn was the biggest mistake. In the 24x24 heated area, in the winter the air temp at head height will be 65F where it's 35F by your knees and water freezes on the floor. Picking up tools from the floor is 'interesting'. In the spring, the slab looks like it was sprinkled as it will get a solid layer of water from condensation. Have to run a dehumidifier to keep the tools and things from rusting . Oh, the interior walls move as the slab they are on floats from the freeze thaw cycles. That wouldn't happen had I insulated under the cement.

The batt's in the wall are what I did too, but today I would have spray in expanding foam. The $$ has gone down and it is very much better in all aspects. A buddies dad had a pole building put up that is both garage, shop and living quarters. He has insulated slab and expanding foam walls. Warm as toast.

The saying about shops around here is that you can't have a shop that is too big, only too big to heat. Your's looks like a nice one with a smart looking crew doing the interior work.

 

[rswyan]

I decided to go with a metal ceiling for some reason (lighter possibly)

Very nice :thumbsup: .... and definitely lighter than just drywall itself (and you sure ain't gonna span drywall 6' O.C. without additional support .... which means even more weight )

When I was in the process of finalizing the specs on our polebarn (also Cleary) I made sure the sales rep knew that I wanted to install a ceiling .... I wasn't sure exactly what type at the time .... so he re-spec'd the trusses for a ceiling .... a fact I was reminded of when I called Cleary about a week ago to check what kind of load the trusses would support (I had completely forgotten .... it was 5 years ago )

I told the guy in engineering that I spoke that I was planning to install a metal ceiling - I think the actual metal I have is what is called "liner panel" and it perforated (for acoustics) with thousands of 1/8" or maybe 1/16" holes in each panel. He pulled up the truss specs for our building and mentioned that the trusses had a change order spec'ing them for a drywall ceiling .... and then commenting that since I was using metal I'd be good, since it was way lighter.

My trusses are around 8' O.C. and I am installing 2" x 4" joists between the trusses every 4' ..... and then running the steel parallel with the trusses (and across the 2" x 4" joists) .... so I'll have support 4' O.C. ....

and put R-30 insulation in the ceiling as I put the ceiling up.

So .... how did it go ? (putting up the steel) .....

Inquiring minds wanna know ...... I have over 3000 sq. ft of it to put up myself ..... :laughing:

As you can see, I rented a scissor lift:

You are a smart man ...... gotta think that was money well spent ....

I think I'll follow your lead ...

 

[smfcpacfp]

Putting up the steel went well, but I did it much differently that I anticipated. I figured that I would hold the steel on my head and screw it place, but once I handled the steel, I could see that would be a nightmare, so we put the steel on the lift and lifted it in position right on the trusses and put in a few screws from my 10 foot step ladder to hold it position. Then I took the lift down and got on the lift and put the rest of the screws in from the lift.

The lift was a great tool. I couldn't imagine doing the ceiling without it given the size of the metal sheets. It was $385 for the week including pickup and delivery. I did see, on this forum I believe, where someone build what I will call a gig made out of 2 by 4's to fit in his front end loader which held sheets of metal (or drywall) in place while they screwed them in place. I also used the lift to put up the plywood on the walls. The advantage of the lift, compared to a tractor is that is extremely manueverable.

 

[srs]

Steve, just wondering what tool you used to cut the metal to put the electrical box in?

 

[smfcpacfp]

Steve, just wondering what tool you used to cut the metal to put the electrical box in?

Saber saw

 

[srs]

Ok, thanks. Didn't know if you had to buy a special "nibbler" type tool. I'm assuming it worked ok for you.