Pole Building questions....Minnesota

[framer]

Typically here in ks.we don't ventilate pole barns if your not going to finish ceiling no reason to ventilate building metal buildings are not completely air
tight unless insulate.Over hangs are good to keep water away.Framer

 

[foggy1111]

Sorry, I may have mis interpreted your response..I got a little snarky...My apologies.

I put vinyl vented soffits all the way down the 48 ft length. Moves a lot of air with the ridge vent...Helps cool it down, especially if you have no windows.

I have a 1x4 facia board running below the roof. This is covered in aluminum which holds the soffit panels.

If you're using shingles, this is needed to keep the roof from overheating in the summer.

I'm in an isolated area too...I thought long and hard about the windows. Had no problems, but the lack of cross ventiliation made it hot on the floor. I use this as a shop though.

I'm going with a metal roof and a full length ridge lite...instead of shingles. I too have concerns with it getting a bit warm and / or humid ...therefore the need to do the venting right.

I likely will have a work bench and plan to bury a big I beam (on end) in the concrete floor to mount a vise to for some occasional confused:??) maintenance work. I know I will wish for some cross ventilation on a hot day....but I am just going to tough it out. Being an absentee land owner...I worry about vandals and theft.

 

[foggy1111]

Typically here in ks.we don't ventilate pole barns if your not going to finish ceiling no reason to ventilate building metal buildings are not completely air
tight unless insulate.Over hangs are good to keep water away.Framer

Yep....the overhangs sure look nice and will keep the foundation from washing out better. When time permits...I plan to put river rock around the perimeter of the building too...in order to keep erosion down. I think I pretty much have decided to go the sidewall overhang and soffit route. Maybe I just need to negotiate the price for it a little more.

 

[timswi]

I'm going with a metal roof and a full length ridge lite...instead of shingles. I too have concerns with it getting a bit warm and / or humid ...therefore the need to do the venting right.

I likely will have a work bench and plan to bury a big I beam (on end) in the concrete floor to mount a vise to for some occasional confused:??) maintenance work. I know I will wish for some cross ventilation on a hot day....but I am just going to tough it out. Being an absentee land owner...I worry about vandals and theft.

If you're not going to be around there...I agree with you..The big garage door should help quite a bit.

As long as you have sofit vents and a ridge vent, you should be fine. That's what they do on houses.

With power, you could do a power vent, but that doesn't sound like it's in the cards for this project.

Can't do much else, or you'll end up with critters.

I'm not sue how much sweating the metal will do up there in the tundra..I know that my decking under my porch drips like crazy during rapid temp changes...If the bottom of the metal isn't insulated, this may be possible. I'd check into that. Water coming off of metal makes a mess on machinery.

 

[foggy1111]

If you're not going to be around there...I agree with you..The big garage door should help quite a bit.

As long as you have sofit vents and a ridge vent, you should be fine. That's what they do on houses.

With power, you could do a power vent, but that doesn't sound like it's in the cards for this project.

Can't do much else, or you'll end up with critters.

I'm not sue how much sweating the metal will do up there in the tundra..I know that my decking under my porch drips like crazy during rapid temp changes...If the bottom of the metal isn't insulated, this may be possible. I'd check into that. Water coming off of metal makes a mess on machinery.

You brought up a good point earlier on cross ventilation....and I may rethink my walk door to help out in that area when working in the garage.

Yes (from an earlier post) the builder uses trusses and full length metal roof sheets.

I am building near a pretty sizable wetland....so I'm sure humidity and sweating could be an issue in the hot summer months.

From a critter standpoint.....I'm more worried about my boat and upholstery getting chewed on, sXXt on, and such...than about the tractor or machinery. Its a pretty nice boat (23' Cobalt ) and I just want to preserve it as best I can while stored in the building over the winter months.

Bedtime....thanks for the feedback.

 

[timswi]

The sweating issue i fear is that the exposed metal roof panels could drip all winter long ...(Cold & snow to direct sun=sweaty metal roofing on the inside).

This can turn the building into a rain forest in the winter...Doubt it would be much of an issue in the summer...Isn't here anyway.

Just hate to see you walk in there in april and find everyting soaked, rusty and stained.

The roof venting may cut this down...Might want to check with some people experienced in such things...That's a pretty hard problem to fix once it's installed.

Don't want to cause undo concern, but it happens at my place, albeit on a much smaller scale.

 

[MarkV]

Not sure how they could do soffit venting without a soffit and wonder how effective a ridge vent is alone. I would also think the overhang would be more important in snow country than down here in the south.

Hope you have better luck critter proofing than most. I have never seen a building that can keep mice out.

MarkV

 

[DUMBDOG]

Will need some venting to prevent sweating, either the ridge vent or even a vent on the ends that are screened to keep the bugs out.

I know that you do not want to talk cement, but in North Dakota, I went with 4 inch concrete with fiberglass, with cuts, without a problem after eight years. I even parked a 20K pound backhoe along side a 12K pound motor home in 24 X 48 foot section without a problem.

 

[foggy1111]

After a bit more research, I am definately going with the 1 foot roof overhang and perforated soffits and a ridge lite with vents under each side. I just dont know yet about the ridge vent.....one guy claims the "brillo pad" venting is all I need.....and another is recommending some thicker plastic vent material that I need to research a little more.

I have looked into "mouse guard" and will have that installed at the base and am putting filler 2x4's on the corner posts to fill any voids there. Also foam
filler strips on any openings to minimize any big openings. One can hope.

Will need some venting to prevent sweating, either the ridge vent or even a vent on the ends that are screened to keep the bugs out.

I know that you do not want to talk cement, but in North Dakota, I went with 4 inch concrete with fiberglass, with cuts, without a problem after eight years. I even parked a 20K pound backhoe along side a 12K pound motor home in 24 X 48 foot section without a problem.

Well....I probably "overspoke" on concrete....sorry. Yep, I know many have had success with fiberglass....I attribute much of it to soil compaction and type and good preparation....and maybe a little luck. I have also seen some bad fiber glass results with much of the problems showing up at the joints heaving from freeze thaw.

As an example: my daughter put in part of her drive with rebar....as I recommended (and its held up great) and then saved a few bucks on the balance of the drive by going with glass (and it heaved at every joint )....and she's sorry they didn't heed my advice on the entire driveway. Many around here wont mess with FG anymore.....and I'm one of 'em. My.02 worth.

 

[DUMBDOG]

What ever makes you comfortable is the best thing.