Portable Welding Charges

   / Portable Welding Charges #21  
I thought WHarv had the slickest trick yet. His idea for using 2" receiver tubes, whereby you can add almost anything gives you a great platform.
 
   / Portable Welding Charges #22  
<font color=blue>Other posts on TBN recommend two 3/8" grab hooks at the two top corners of the bucket with a 3/8" slip hook in the middle. </font color=blue>

Mike,
That's my setup exactly and I couldn't be more pleased with it. I usually only use the two on the end for lifting, but I prefer having the slip hook in the middle when trying to tie something into the bucket. A few weeks ago I had some brush I was hauling and it was "springy", so I took a chain through the middle one and under the toothbar, out to the grab hooks. Having the slip hook in the middle made it easier to get the load tight.

When the contractor was putting in our driveway pipe, the guy running the tracked loader had the same hook setup on his bucket. He picked up the pipe by threading a chain through the pipe and picked it up with the slip hook. Then once it was balanced, curled his bucket back to keep it steady. I asked him about the hooks (cause I didn't have my tractor yet) and he said he liked that configuration best.

--Brad
 
   / Portable Welding Charges
  • Thread Starter
#23  
winchman, {attached} is a picture from the back of the bucket that shows the lip. Does this help?
 

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   / Portable Welding Charges #24  
Mike,

If you were to have a piece of flat bar welded on the lip of the bucket to the back of the bucket, it would make a sqaurish cross section & reinforce the lip. This flat bar would be oriented perpendicular (+/-) to the ground if the bucket was level. Run it across the entire width of the bucket & if possible weld it to the sides as well.

If you really wanted to get fancy, you would put some small pieced of flat bar inside this soon to be created "square tube" parallel to the sides of the bucket. This would create compartments in the tube and help keep everything together.
 
   / Portable Welding Charges
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Hazmat,

Thanks for the info! Would it also be OK to weld the proper diameter pipe underneath the lip?
 
   / Portable Welding Charges #26  
MikePA,

Great picture Mike! The top edge of your bucket looks almost identical to my kubota's. I re-enforced the tractor-side top edge of mine by welding a piece of heavy wall pipe the length of the bucket. I chose a diameter of pipe that just contacted the top edge of the lip and then came tangent to the back part of the bucket that is angling down towards the front wheels. Your welder will know how to beef up that top edge. Square tubing could also be used. Mike, in your situation I would take the bucket to the welder and have him beef up the top edge and weld on your hooks. This is a maximum 1 hr job and I'm no pro welder. That was the first customization I did when I got my new tractor/loader because I had seen so many bent top edges on buckets with that design. It's cheap insurance! You will love having those hooks on there. Sorry I don't have a camera!


winchman
 
   / Portable Welding Charges #27  
Mike,

That's funny! I was typing a reply to you and you replied to Hazmat asking about pipe. Yep, the pipe worked great, but not the only option.



winchman
 
   / Portable Welding Charges #28  
Pipe is the simpler option. If you can get one that fits to your satisfaction, go for it. If not, the flat bar is your backup.
 
   / Portable Welding Charges #29  
<font color=blue>""weld the proper diameter pipe underneath the lip"</font color=blue>

Now there's a neat idea! I have a standard (light) duty 61" Deere bucket and the "roll" at the top of that bucket is down and back into the bucket as opposed to up and back over the bucket at the top like the New Holland. A piece of heavy pipe in there for reinforcement sure seems like a great way to go.
 
 
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