Posthole Digger Posthole auger point/bit replacement

[EddieWalker]

"It's supper aggressive and I've destroyed two driveshafts burying it into the ground."

Doesn't it have a shear bolt to keep from doing serious damage? Mine will snap the shear bolt first.

I've snapped a few bolts when I hit something like a rock or a root, but when it's just digging deeper and deeper and I can't pull it out, it buries itself in the ground, and then either kills the engine, or eventually it can't go any deeper and I can slip the clutch and rev the engine enough to get it to spin in the hole and eventually break free. When it's that deep down, it bends the drive shaft. Probably ruining my clutch too.

 

[Btown]

I've snapped a few bolts when I hit something like a rock or a root, but when it's just digging deeper and deeper and I can't pull it out, it buries itself in the ground, and then either kills the engine, or eventually it can't go any deeper and I can slip the clutch and rev the engine enough to get it to spin in the hole and eventually break free. When it's that deep down, it bends the drive shaft. Probably ruining my clutch too.

What is your engine speed, I dig with engine around 1200 rpm, not sure of PTO speed. There is no need for full PTO speed to dig holes. If you ever see the power company put in poles their auger turns very slow.

 

[Fallon]

I never really go above half throttle, usually not even that high when running my PHD.

 

[CADplans]

Usually,,, for ME,
I have found that replacing the entire auger does not cost much more than just the point and teeth.

Other issues like wallowed shear pin hole, etc,,, go away as well.

New flighting just seems to dig MUCH better!! :thumbsup:

 

[beowulf]

Usually,,, for ME,
I have found that replacing the entire auger does not cost much more than just the point and teeth.

That was how it worked out for me - it made more sense to get a new auger.

 

[TomSeller]

This was a dream hole fixing a sorry fence corner. About 20 seconds to get this, then spin it off, drop down two or so more times to clean out the hole.

 

[lexluther]

I have a land pride. There are carbide tips available even on amazon. I replaced with a standard tip and changed the teeth at the end of the corkscrew portion. The teeth were worn round and I found they can be flipped for a more aggressive bite. Made a huge difference in my hard soil.

 

[EddieWalker]

What is your engine speed, I dig with engine around 1200 rpm, not sure of PTO speed. There is no need for full PTO speed to dig holes. If you ever see the power company put in poles their auger turns very slow.

It's in that range. I go fast enough for it to dig and have the most uplift I can get to pull it out over and over again while digging. I only rev it up to the max when it buries itself in the bottom of the hole. Something that never happened with my previous augers, just the Country Line brand for Tractor Supply.

Power companies use hydraulic augers and they have a crane with both up and down pressure. When I've seen it done, they go straight down, then pull it up with the auger full of dirt, then they reverse it while it's in the air and the dirt falls off. I don't think there is any comparison between a 3 point auger and a hydraulic one. If you can afford it, that's going to be a thousand times better in every regard.

 

[radioman]

i bought the countyline phd with 9 inch auger then swapped to a 12. what eddie says about it burying itself is correct. i had it nearly corkscrew itself into the ground and i nearly panicked while trying to lift it up but it kept going into the ground. i was only going at 900-1400 rpm and was only touching 1/4 control the down control a little at a time. it only needs to grab a root or stone and it will literally tries to corkscrew down and lift the front end up a little on my little tractor. i just wait for it stop corkscrewing and then shut off the pto and lift it out. This way it will hold some of the dirt and i can spin most of dirt off by revving up the pto momentarily . try the tractor supply replacement tip on yours and see if it helps.

can you post a pic of your auger tip so i can compare it to mine? i would love the ability to swap from need to penetrate the soil to slowing down the corkscrew.

The only thing that stops me from drilling holes are always the rocks that protrudes halfway in middle of the hole when it snaps my shear bolts no matter how fast i try to shut off the pto.

 

[Fallon]

My Pengo augers are only $4-5 each (times 4 teeth) for the basic teeth. Double that for hard faced teeth. Double again for carbide. I need to upgrade to hardfaced or carbide after seeing how fast my ground wears teeth.

The 12" Speeco (under $200) was $15ish each & needed 2 teeth. As the bolt holes to attach the auger to the PHD were tearing I upgraded to the beefier Pengo 12" ($350). Did end up getting new Speeco teeth & sold the 12" Speeco with my PHD & tractor. I kept my 9" & 12" Pengos. Have a spare PHD frame. Just need to get a gearbox, PTO shaft then chop up the frame to make it QH compatible again (requires a hydraulic toplink).