Power Rake build

[Xfaxman]

:thumbsup: Gooder-un.

 

[GolfAddict]

Good progress!

What's the slot used for on the other one?

 

[Zick]

Good progress!

What's the slot used for on the other one?

Thanks

Ted from Everything Attachments explains the top link holes at about the 1 min mark in this video.
Harley 72" Power Box Rake, PTO Driven, 3-Point Hitch - YouTube

 

[jemclimber]

Looks great!! Where did you get your gear box for this?

 

[Zick]

Thanks,
The gearbox is from Surplus Center.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power...1-1-32-HP-RA-GEARBOX-BOTH-KEYED-13-1423-K.axd

 

[Stonehaller]

It looks like you have a rigid coupling on the output of the gear box. If so, then you are relying on the drive shaft to the upper sprocket flexing to make up for misalignment. In operation, the rake frame will flex and affect alignment as well. Any misalignment will put a load on the gear box bearings. It will probably be fine for light duty use, but you may want to consider adding a pillow block bearing near the gear box and then using a flex coupling between the gear box and shaft.

Left the top bracket extra large in case I decide to add in the long open hole slot like other Harley rake have. Not sure I really need it or not. Basically like this.

For most work I use the fixed top link hole, but I do use the slotted top link hole on my Harley rake. It gives the rake a little float for finish grading and you can make fine adjustments with just the three point lift height.

 

[Zick]

It looks like you have a rigid coupling on the output of the gear box. If so, then you are relying on the drive shaft to the upper sprocket flexing to make up for misalignment. In operation, the rake frame will flex and affect alignment as well. Any misalignment will put a load on the gear box bearings. It will probably be fine for light duty use, but you may want to consider adding a pillow block bearing near the gear box and then using a flex coupling between the gear box and shaft.


For most work I use the fixed top link hole, but I do use the slotted top link hole on my Harley rake. It gives the rake a little float for finish grading and you can make fine adjustments with just the three point lift height.

Thanks for the tip about the top shaft, I'll have to look into that. :thumbsup:

 

[PhysAssist]

No criticism or helpful critiques from me, because you are already working way above my pay grade, so all I can say is WOW! that looks awesome,

Now I'll be able to keep watching and learning from your work process!

Nicely done so far.

Thomas

 

[Halftrack]

It appears from your pivot set up that you will have a very limited amount of angle capability with the rectangular hitch frame. Is this going to be a sufficient amount of angle for your intended use? I was thinking H rakes angled to about 45 degrees. Will it work for you? Otherwise, a beautiful job so far, makes me wish I could cut a piece of metal at 90 degrees and straight.

 

[Zick]

It looks like you have a rigid coupling on the output of the gear box. If so, then you are relying on the drive shaft to the upper sprocket flexing to make up for misalignment. In operation, the rake frame will flex and affect alignment as well. Any misalignment will put a load on the gear box bearings. It will probably be fine for light duty use, but you may want to consider adding a pillow block bearing near the gear box and then using a flex coupling between the gear box and shaft.


For most work I use the fixed top link hole, but I do use the slotted top link hole on my Harley rake. It gives the rake a little float for finish grading and you can make fine adjustments with just the three point lift height.

It looks like you have a rigid coupling on the output of the gear box. If so, then you are relying on the drive shaft to the upper sprocket flexing to make up for misalignment. In operation, the rake frame will flex and affect alignment as well. Any misalignment will put a load on the gear box bearings. It will probably be fine for light duty use, but you may want to consider adding a pillow block bearing near the gear box and then using a flex coupling between the gear box and shaft.


For most work I use the fixed top link hole, but I do use the slotted top link hole on my Harley rake. It gives the rake a little float for finish grading and you can make fine adjustments with just the three point lift height.

Is there any reason to choose a Lovejoy setup vs Universal joint?
I can get either setup for about the same cost. The LJ would add a bit of cushioning during startup vs the solid connection of the UJ.

1" L-110 JAW COUPLING HALF
or
1" KEYED 28 HP UNIVERSAL JOINT

No criticism or helpful critiques from me, because you are already working way above my pay grade, so all I can say is WOW! that looks awesome,

Now I'll be able to keep watching and learning from your work process!

Nicely done so far.

Thomas

Thanks!

It appears from your pivot set up that you will have a very limited amount of angle capability with the rectangular hitch frame. Is this going to be a sufficient amount of angle for your intended use? I was thinking H rakes angled to about 45 degrees. Will it work for you? Otherwise, a beautiful job so far, makes me wish I could cut a piece of metal at 90 degrees and straight.

It can angle about 20 degree. When I was looking at factory rakes, most only angled 15-20 degrees. It should be fine for my intended use which is going to be light duty yard work.