price checkfarmall 706

[king1]

i just agreed on a handshake to buy a 67 farmall 706. 3500 hrs. German diesel, 3 pt, the narrow front was swapped for a 1206 wide front end. It used to have a cab on it but it rotted out so it has brand new square fenders. Everthing seems to work well. It has newer paint. TA seems good, rear tires are 50 to 60%. It has a charging issue or possible a dead short somewhere, but that is the only thing that seems to be wrong with it. Needs the lights wired up on the fenders. The trans oil is milky but it sat ouside uncovered and probably just needs changed. No tranny or cluch noise. pto didn't stop right away but that didn't concern me. A small snort of either and it roared dead cold. It was about 35 deg. outside. $3,000. Am i missing something. It seems too cheap. I don't want to buy a cheap tractor and have it turn into an expensive tractor. I'll be doing hay mostly with this tractor and i could never work this tractor as hard as it was ment to be worked when new. just want a bigger tractor for pulling kicker wagons and a baler. maybe a round baler in the next couple of years. I have never owned a farmall and the only knowledge i have of them is from reading. I know the ta steering brakes i think run on one pump system and that the rear end is pressure lubed from that pump. I am pretty mechanical inclined. Nothing at all scares me to fix except the price of repairs. Any thoughts are much appriciated.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I don't know much about them, but they were really popular back in the late 60's and 70's when I was on the farm. It's a real tractor that will do serious work once you get it all fixed up. I have no idea what the parts availability is on them.

Does it have a standard 3 point hitch or the proprietary Farmall "Fasthitch"?

 

[art]

I would make sure the over fueling system works on the tractor over the either! Good heavy power source that farmers used and used and came back for more. The big thing with TA's is to remember the official name Torque Amplifier. They were meant to use to gain RPM and power back while engine is lugging or working hard. To many people used them to assist as a brake and the life span difference is in excess of 5,000 hours between proper use and not using the TA correctly.

 

[Tx Jim]

$3,000 doesn't seem too bad for a 706 when one see's what Ford 8N's are still priced at. Location of tractor has a lot to do with value.

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

$3,000 doesn't seem too bad for a 706 when one see's what Ford 8N's are still priced at. . . .

Great point. I see 8n's all the time for that price or more. The 706 can work circles around an 8N all day long and twice on Sunday.

 

[flusher]

That's pretty cheap power--$3K for 89 hp (engine), 76 hp (pto). I paid $3600 in 2006 for my 1964 MF135 diesel Deluxe that has 45 hp engine, 37 hp pto.

I'd check this one out carefully. You say you want it for drawbar work (baler, kicker wagons) so maybe the 3pt hitch hydraulics aren't that important to you. But I'd check out the hydraulics carefully to be sure they work OK.

The TA probably isn't that important for the work you plan to do with your 706. I have Multipower on my 135 and it needs to be fixed (only operates in the Low range). Otherwise the 135 works fine.

Good luck.

 

[RickB]

If it runs & moves it's pretty much worth the asking price.

 

[king1]

Well i bought it. Yes pappy it has the standard 3 pt. I performed the ta check by shifting the ta, turning the wheel and hitting the brakes and there was power for days and smooth operation. Almost no blow by from the crank case. the steering seemed a little bit tough but it was cold out, about 20 deg or so, and i mostly drove just a little bit above ide excpt for the ta check. I did read that his could be a sign of a pump issue but i'm leaning towards no. Art, the guy i bought it from was raised with these tractors and knew enough,while talking about the ta, to say how people would use them to slow down on the road and just ruin them. I am a little leary about the hours though, it's old and the previous owner bought it from the orignal owner, who had supposidly put a clutch and a ta in it. I guess it's possible if it was used wrong or something just went. The tranny did shift smooth as well as the ta. After the tractor was warm the pto did stop within a few seconds so no worries there. The guy i bought it from seemed to be real honest and was sad to see the tractor go but glad that he was selling it to me as we are both younger guys with not many young farmers coming up so it seems. Well, thank you all for your input, it is greatly appreciated. Let's hope you all don't see me looking for too much advice on repairs in the future!

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Congrats on the purchase. When you get it all fixed up to your liking, you'll have a fine tractor from an era when they made them to last forever, and it will outpull many brand new tractors with much higher HP ratings.

 

[art]

The option for the 3900 hours would be 13900 hours and unless the engine was rebuilt you would have blow by at this point. On the hydraulics I'd pick up a new filter and some Hytran Plus from your case dealer. There are differences in oils regardless of what some think and it has shown to make a difference. Check to see if you might have some water in the hydraulics by allowing the tractor to sit and remove the plug slowly to see if there is water there.
They are a basic rebuild able and reliable tractor that we have in our area well past the 20,000 hour mark!