Price Guidance for Ford 8N

[jurtz]

Good Day!

After reading another thread related to prices for Ford 8N’s, I thought I would try to get some input on an 8N purchase I am considering. In this case, the tractor is owned by my brother and he simply wants to get a fair market value. Here are the specifics:

1947 Ford 8N (year based on S/N)
Almost new tires all around
Paint and sheet metal in good condition

History:

Not sure where my brother got it from, but he bought it about 10 years ago. At that time, he had an engine block crack repaired, put new tires on it, and had it repainted. He used it regularly for gardening (plowing and cultivating) and brush hogging. About 5 years ago he bought a new Kubota, and now uses the 8N rarely (he says an hour or two a year). He says the PTO and hydraulics all function properly. There are a few known problems:

1. There is something wrong in the starting circuit. Tractor can be started by jump starting and will run, but process needs to be repeated to re-start.
2. Only one brake works - other pedal goes to the floor
3. Proofmeter is brand new but has never worked. Cable, maybe?
4. Ammeter looks shot

For my part, I would use the tractor do some brush hogging – only about an acre, and maybe some grading using a back blade. In reality I really don’t need a tractor, but I like the idea of having one around (I have a 33 acre property). I’ve never owned a tractor (though I have them several times), but I consider myself pretty competent on electrical and mechanical matters. I was looking through the 8N manual, and none of the maintenance/ repair activities seem too daunting.

I’m thinking around $2,500 for this tractor. Any suggestions or concerns based on what I have presented here?

 

[gamble77]

If you took it to the sale today that thing may bring $1500 if you are lucky. Of course that is in my neck of the woods...

 

[thatguy]

In case you were not aware, the brake(s) not working is a common 8N problem.. The axle seal(s) leak allowing the brakes to get covered with grease/oil... My dad had a '49 that only had one brake for years and then didnt have any brakes - what fun to drive LOL.. If i remember correctly someone said you could install double seals and it is suppose to help keep brakes.

As far as price goes someone else will have to chime in here.. I think dad sold his with a 4' rough mower for $1500 to $1800 (but it didnt last long).. It had been totally redone (paint and engine) 10 yrs ago, but it was kept outside all the time, so it didnt look like it - the sheet metal was in good shape though.

good luck..

 

[RonR]

You didn't mention if the deal would include implements or not. If you can get a package deal with all the stuff you might need, that is worth something in that you won't have to go find/buy attachments. Price is a very regional thing; Fords sell for a LOT around here, running or not. People seem to love em, even though you can buy more tractor for less $$$ in other flavors. People seem to like to rebuild them and parts are readily available.

To me, it's worth something knowing the honest history (even if only the last 10 yrs) of a tractor.

The starter issue should be fixed to avoid the hassle factor--might just need new cables and a new battery, so that's not much. You need to be able to start it in the field without going after external power.

Not having to buy new tires is a big savings. You likely can run it forever on the current set.

Fixing the brakes should be done for safety. Should be fairly cheap and a DIY type job.

I've probably driven 50-75 different tractors in my lifetime (worked in the biz for awhile). Most of the old ones were lucky if the temp and oil pressure gage worked. Ammeter, hour meter, tach, fuel gage--hey, they run fine without them. A lot of the tractors I saw had an aftermarket oil gage or temp gage tapped in so the operator could see it if the "factory" unit failed. As long as you want a working tractor and not a show tractor, no need to have it showroom/ original.

I wouldn't worry about the cracked block. If its lasted years as is, likely will last forever.

You could watch the local papers and or talk with some dealers or farm auctioneers to get an idea of price. Pics of the equipment would help them tell you a price THEY would ask for it.

You could offer to store Bro's tractor for no charge, just the use of it. Best of all worlds!

Have fun,
ron

 

[Soundguy]

47 89n didn't have a proofmeter from the factory... they didn't show up until around the side mount distrib.. though a governor and cup replacement would allow the older unit to use a proofmeter.. again.. assuming cable is ok.

Cracked bleck eh? depends on where it is. if it isn't leaking now.. probably ok.

Brakes.. might be leaks.. might be linings.

To the other poster that implied that yuo could add a 2nd seal... beter keep reading. Early 8n axle trumpets were only machined for 1 seal... later 8n trumpets were machined for 2 seals.. gotta swap trumpets to get 2 seals on an early 8n.. etc.

That said.. generally.. running 1/2 gallon low on rear end oil takes care of the leaky axle seal and tranny input shaft seal problems.. that is.. 4.5g instead of 5g.

Just pull the lower bolt ont he round dipstick cover.. only fill rear end oil till that point..

I agree with the others.. maybee a 1500$ tractor with those known issues.

Soundguy

 

[GEB]

I just sold a 1948 in really nice shape.
It was in show condition...$3000 and ran as good as it looked.
It had new rims, tires, paint, seat, steering wheel,.........
Only known problem the lift would leak down when the clutch was pressed.
I had give $3500 for it 1 year ago.

 

[Soundguy]

That lift leak was about a 100-200$ / 9 hour fix.. just seals, gaskets, maybee a psiton / cylinder and check valve.

Soundguy

 

[simonmeridew]

Starting issue: may be a bad starting switch by the shift lever. This is extremely easy to troubleshoot due to simple wiring. Make sure the switch has power to it, make sure power continues to the solenoid when it is pressed. I bypassed this "safety switch" 25 years ago with a doorbell button.
Proofmeter: unscrew the cable from the back of the meter: if the cable is turning when the engine is running it's the proofmeter; a new one is $35 - 50 on eBay. If not you need a new cable $15 on eBay.
Brakes: on some models of the8N there is an adjusting wheel accessable through the slot(which is supposed to be plugged with a rubber thing) on the inboard side of the drum backing plate and adjusted with a screwdriver when the wheel is jacked up to spin it. Do this first unless and maybe even if there is oil visible on the drum.
Ammeter: a new one is $5; get the non cut induction kind if possible, easier install.

Knowing a 10 year history of the machine is worth the price of admission; it's a 60 year old machine and it's seen a lot of tinkering and repairs in its life, some of which wouldn't hold up that long if it hadn't been done right.
simonmeridew

 

[sweettractors]

<font color="blue">At that time, he had an engine block crack repaired </font>

As a dealer, It is aganist Ky law for me to sell a tractor with a cracked or repaired cracked block without telling my customer. I am not sure about a sale, individual to individual? This issue could hurt future sale or trade in value. I would put the price at $800 to $1200 in the condition you describe--Ken Sweet

Sweet Farm Equipment LLC *Over 70 Used turning plows in stock today*

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( switch by the shift lever. Make sure the switch has power to it, )</font>

Almost correct. Switch by the tranny is a 'grounding' switch. The OEM 3 terminal solenoid is internally 'hot', and when you press the big thumb switch.. it grounds the circuit.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Brakes: on some models of the8N there is an adjusting wheel accessable through the slot )</font>

All 8n have the star adjuster.. not most. Same with NAA and hundred series...

Soundguy