Problems with float

[RobiBX2230]

I'm not sure what the 2 black hex "dodadas" are - take the plastic cover off and then do a photo.
As Kennyd says they should be held on with two cap screws or two philips screws - like a little cover.
My control is doing almost the same thing but will absolutely not go into a detent position (stay in the down position).
I've been told my issue is crud in the cup that needs to be scrapped out to allow the control piston to extend into the float position.
I thought I did this enough once but I've got to do it again as there is little clearance inside the cup.
Good luck with the clean up.

Here is a photo, the valve on the left is the bucket curl and roll and the valve on the right is the bucket lift and drop. When I took the cover off, I noticed that I can push the loader control lever to the right (as to dump the bucket) and push it even further into a second spot (which detents, but not well, keeps popping out)... I cannot however get the control lever to go any further forward (as in a normal float position).

 

[Egon]

The linkage may require a little adjustment. This is especially true if there is a little wear.

 

[RobiBX2230]

The linkage may require a little adjustment. This is especially true if there is a little wear.

I did fiddle with it a bit, I took it apart a little to see if I could get the linkage longer to push the valve further, but no dice...

 

[RobiBX2230]

Here is a quick video of me moving the control lever around and maybe this will help all you help me.. The last thing I'm trying to do is push it past the lower position to what should be "float"

YouTube - 0113102047.3g2

 

[jnjpream]

To me it doesn't look like your even getting into the arm float position. Definitely getting into the bucket float. Gotta get the detent end off for both and clean them up.

 

[RobiBX2230]

To me it doesn't look like your even getting into the arm float position. Definitely getting into the bucket float. Gotta get the detent end off for both and clean them up.

I agree I can't get it into float, I wasn't really aware of a "bucket float" but I was able to give a little force to get it into that position now its easy. I took the plastic cover off and hit the valve with a rubber mallet as I tried to push it into "float" and can't seem to do it still. What do I need to take off, there are 2 large hex shaped things at the bottom of the valve, but I can't get them off (they do screw in, I just can't get enough bite on them with channel locks to spin them off, adding a picture, I circled them in red)

 

[jnjpream]

What's the srl number of the loader so I can look up the right valve body?

 

[RobiBX2230]

What's the srl number of the loader so I can look up the right valve body?

Model LA211-1
Serial Number is 30355

 

[jnjpream]

Ok, looks like Kenny had it right..

When standing at the front of the tractor, the one on the right is for the arms (up/dn) and the one on the left is for the bucket (lft/rt). Looks like you have to get to the detent balls from the end of the detent pack. You will have to remove the valve body from the tractor to get at them because they are held in by an internal C-clip.

Shouldn't be a big deal.. Remove the cotter pins from the linkage at the end of the spools (the rods that go in and out of the valve body to make it work). Disconnect the three hoses from the valve body (two on top, one on the side under the quick disconnects). The drawing for the mounting bolts is a bit weak, but there is one at the upper right (again from the front of the tractor) and one about half way down on the right both of which are accessed from behind. The drawing doesn't show bolts on the left, but from your picture it looks as though there may be two allen head bolts, one at the top and one at the bottom. They could just be dowels too, just look to see if they go through the mounting plate to know for sure.

Once you have the valve body off you should be able to look at the ends of the packs to see what kind of c-clips they are. Easy would be the kind with a couple holes in the to allow a clip pliers to squeeze the ends together so you can pull them out. Hard would be the kind w/o the pin holes.. I'm guessing hard.

Be prepared to swear a bit.. The ends of the hard ones usually have the outside of the ends ground down so you can get a screw driver behind them to pry the clip towards the center. Once it is pried in enough to get another screw driver behind the meat of the clip you can usually pry it up and out bit by bit. Expect it to want to fly across the room when it comes out..

Once the clips are off, there is a plug of some sorts, a spring, a ring, and 4 balls. Take a look at the Messicks website and look up the LA211 in the parts catalog (link in text at the upper right on the parts page). Look at the control valve component drawings and you will see what I'm talking about.. Your's is the 4 position w/ srl > 30001.

OR, you could spend $130 to get two new detent packs. They look like they do actually unscrew, you probably just need better leverage (pull the valve body and clamp it to a bench or something. And try to find a wrench instead of a channel locks.

 

[RobiBX2230]

Ok, looks like Kenny had it right..

When standing at the front of the tractor, the one on the right is for the arms (up/dn) and the one on the left is for the bucket (lft/rt). Looks like you have to get to the detent balls from the end of the detent pack. You will have to remove the valve body from the tractor to get at them because they are held in by an internal C-clip.

Shouldn't be a big deal.. Remove the cotter pins from the linkage at the end of the spools (the rods that go in and out of the valve body to make it work). Disconnect the three hoses from the valve body (two on top, one on the side under the quick disconnects). The drawing for the mounting bolts is a bit weak, but there is one at the upper right (again from the front of the tractor) and one about half way down on the right both of which are accessed from behind. The drawing doesn't show bolts on the left, but from your picture it looks as though there may be two allen head bolts, one at the top and one at the bottom. They could just be dowels too, just look to see if they go through the mounting plate to know for sure.

Once you have the valve body off you should be able to look at the ends of the packs to see what kind of c-clips they are. Easy would be the kind with a couple holes in the to allow a clip pliers to squeeze the ends together so you can pull them out. Hard would be the kind w/o the pin holes.. I'm guessing hard.

Be prepared to swear a bit.. The ends of the hard ones usually have the outside of the ends ground down so you can get a screw driver behind them to pry the clip towards the center. Once it is pried in enough to get another screw driver behind the meat of the clip you can usually pry it up and out bit by bit. Expect it to want to fly across the room when it comes out..

Once the clips are off, there is a plug of some sorts, a spring, a ring, and 4 balls. Take a look at the Messicks website and look up the LA211 in the parts catalog (link in text at the upper right on the parts page). Look at the control valve component drawings and you will see what I'm talking about.. Your's is the 4 position w/ srl > 30001.

OR, you could spend $130 to get two new detent packs. They look like they do actually unscrew, you probably just need better leverage (pull the valve body and clamp it to a bench or something. And try to find a wrench instead of a channel locks.

This is very good, thank you SO much for your time... In my picture, have I circled the correct item to remove from the valve body? And the valve body does look easy to take off, its 1 bolt up by the control lever and 2 bolts down at the bottom, should be easy. Am I going to loose a lot of hydraulic fluid when I take it all apart? Trying to prepare the garage if I take it all apart...