DonStillwagon
Member
This post is in response to a request for mods to quiet the diesel exhaust noise on a 1430. I saw this on a visit to Tazewell on a machine used in the shop - the modification rerouted the exhaust from the short stack dumping the exhaust out the side behind the operator to out the back of the cage. It consists of taking the muffler off the engine (pretty simple as everything is accessible) and cutting off the short stack and welding a cover over the hole, and then using a holesaw to bore a cutout on the opposite end of the muffler. You might need to check on the internal structure of your muffler, on mine the short stack connected to a pipe that went to the other end through a center baffle. I welded a 10 inch piece of 2" od steel tubing to the muffler after drilling a bunch of small holes (3/16, I believe) and then capping it with a piece of plate. Then I welded a 12" piece of 3" od steel tubing over that so the smaller pipe was centered inside, making a rear exit stack. I took a short ring of 4" od tubing and welded it into the rear mesh lined up with the stack so that when the engine cover is closed it is centered and fits over the very end of the exhaust stack. This collar was welded to a piece of 1x1 angle fashoned and welded to short pieces of scrap material to cover the hydraulic PTO return line that the PT 1430 has going to the oil cooler. Weld the collar into the mesh, cutting the mesh out of the center and make the dimensions of the stack and collar so that they will not collide when opening and closing the cover.
This modification moves the exhaust noise to the rear at a lower level due the additional baffling, but the real benefit is getting that diesel exhaust away from the operator. Two conflicts arise with this modification, one with the location of the air cleaner on the back of the engine being in the way of the new stack location, and one with the rear light. I moved the light to the top of the cage looking out through the mesh as before but mounted on the cage instead of the engine. I routed the necessary wire through the angle mentioned before, and attached to the hydraulic line with wire ties.
On the muffler I decided to relocate it to the top of the cage in front of the fan using wire wound radiator hoses and steel pipe fittings. I made a manifold plate out of flat stock, and welded a 1 1/2" nipple into it at a downward angle, connected two wire wound radiator hoses togather to get to the nipple just forward of the fan (see the pictures). The nipple through the top of the cage is 2", and connects into a brass ball valve topside and has a 1 1/2 inch 90 degree elbow welded into the bottom side, aimed to the rear. Clearance is tight, so I held it close to the fan shroud and installed a bent nipple to guide the hose away from the fan shoud a bit - just slice a wedge of metal out of the nipple and weld the cut shut after bending. I found a piece of 1/2 emt bent to 90 degrees and going from a bolt topside to the end of the engine helped keep the hose from binding and chafing on the alternator fan shroud which houses the engine cooling fan - there is a lot of movement on the 2 cylinder engine. I welded a 2" nipple into the bottom of the air cleaner base and attached into the ball valve with a 12" extension pipe. Did not have the 12" extension at first, and the induction noise just behind your head is really bad at some rpm levels. The 12" rise helped a lot to change the resonance points. For those of you wondering, the ball valve works great to shut the engine down when other means fail. I can tell you that the Deutz will run pretty fast with the key off and the throttle closed if it is upside down, and since it is running on its lubricating oil it makes a great fog machine with really dense fog - lots of engine noise since it becomes a splash lube engine in that orientation but the Final Stop may be dramatic. Mechanics know that a rag is a good way to stop a runaway diesel, but an intake air valve that you can still reach is even better. PT makes a good ROPS, by the way. Another benefit of this modification is much longer air filter life - it is away from the chaff coming up behind the machine from mowing.
Well, this is probably way too long, but here are a few pictures if they attach ok.
This modification moves the exhaust noise to the rear at a lower level due the additional baffling, but the real benefit is getting that diesel exhaust away from the operator. Two conflicts arise with this modification, one with the location of the air cleaner on the back of the engine being in the way of the new stack location, and one with the rear light. I moved the light to the top of the cage looking out through the mesh as before but mounted on the cage instead of the engine. I routed the necessary wire through the angle mentioned before, and attached to the hydraulic line with wire ties.
On the muffler I decided to relocate it to the top of the cage in front of the fan using wire wound radiator hoses and steel pipe fittings. I made a manifold plate out of flat stock, and welded a 1 1/2" nipple into it at a downward angle, connected two wire wound radiator hoses togather to get to the nipple just forward of the fan (see the pictures). The nipple through the top of the cage is 2", and connects into a brass ball valve topside and has a 1 1/2 inch 90 degree elbow welded into the bottom side, aimed to the rear. Clearance is tight, so I held it close to the fan shroud and installed a bent nipple to guide the hose away from the fan shoud a bit - just slice a wedge of metal out of the nipple and weld the cut shut after bending. I found a piece of 1/2 emt bent to 90 degrees and going from a bolt topside to the end of the engine helped keep the hose from binding and chafing on the alternator fan shroud which houses the engine cooling fan - there is a lot of movement on the 2 cylinder engine. I welded a 2" nipple into the bottom of the air cleaner base and attached into the ball valve with a 12" extension pipe. Did not have the 12" extension at first, and the induction noise just behind your head is really bad at some rpm levels. The 12" rise helped a lot to change the resonance points. For those of you wondering, the ball valve works great to shut the engine down when other means fail. I can tell you that the Deutz will run pretty fast with the key off and the throttle closed if it is upside down, and since it is running on its lubricating oil it makes a great fog machine with really dense fog - lots of engine noise since it becomes a splash lube engine in that orientation but the Final Stop may be dramatic. Mechanics know that a rag is a good way to stop a runaway diesel, but an intake air valve that you can still reach is even better. PT makes a good ROPS, by the way. Another benefit of this modification is much longer air filter life - it is away from the chaff coming up behind the machine from mowing.
Well, this is probably way too long, but here are a few pictures if they attach ok.