PTO Disengaging Randomly

[DogGoneHay]

The PTO on my 2009 TC 5610 is disengaging randomly with no error code. When I try to reengage it, it starts for 1? seconds, then stops. I have to stop, wait 5-15 minutes, then it will work again for about 15 minutes and repeat. Engine isn't hot. It's running a sprayer so it's not overtaxed. Has anyone experienced this? I have a few questions and would really appreciate any advice that you can offer.
Does the high flow need to be engaged to run the PTO? I've tried it both ways but I'm not sure if the high flow is coming on because the light in the high flow switch does not light up when I toggle the switch.
Does anyone know which relay or fuse controls the high flow so i can check that?
Neither the high flow or PTO switches light up when pressed even though the PTO is turning. Has anyone experienced that? Are they user-serviceable switches?
One last operator question...when in cruise mode, what is the best way to exit cruise mode without coming to a quick halt by tapping the brake? I would like to exit cruise mode but keep moving. Is it simply quick footwork or is there a better way?
One last question about the relays from an earlier post I read...how do you tell if a relay is bad?
I have a 5610 and a T300 and have a ton of experience on the T300 so if anyone has questions on that I would be happy to help. The 5610 is new to me so I'm learning the tricks of it. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

 

[Xfaxman]

I guess you didn't see this: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...olcat-questions-6.html?highlight=#post3792010

What series is your 5610?

 

[DogGoneHay]

I dismantled the center console to get to both the High Flow and PTO Switches. I removed them and switched them around to see if either bulb would work. When I tried the High Flow switch on the PTO circuit, the switch lit up. Vice Versa, as well. I put them in the normal positions and they both lit up when toggled on. Not sure, maybe it was a loose connection. It does get dusty and dirty under there. Sprayed some spray lube on the spade connections to make it easier to make it easier to press the connector all the way onto the switch. As I was dismantling the High Flow switch, I ended up, damaging the switch so I'm going to replace both switches anyway.

BTW, in order to get under the center console I had to remove the driver's seat. I couldn't figure out how to get the center console plastic all the way off because the 3-Pt adjustment arm faces rear and would not allow the plastic cover to move far enough to the rear to lift it off. Not sure about that one, yet. I'll try again next week when I'm replacing those switches.

Odd, though, that neither light was working on the switches but then when taken off and replaced, both started working again. I may tape those connections on the new ones so that they can't shake loose.

Thanks, Xfaxman, for the link to the cruise issue. Still can't figure out a good way to slow down gradually other than turning off the cruise with my finger while putting my foot on the travel pedal so that it doesn't come to an abrupt stop.

Oh, one other thing, I did as another person suggested with regard to the headlights. I crossed spliced the high and low beam wires together. It only had a 10 amp fuse so it promptly blew that so I replaced it with a slightly higher amperage and it works fine. I'm going to try a 15 amp fuse to see if it will last, if not, I'll replace it with a 20 amp. The wiring and switches can handle it and there is a tremendous amount of light from the two square headlights for regular driving.

Oh, it's a D-Series 5610.

This is a really good Forum for Toolcats. I had trouble restarting the unit after changing the fuel filter but a post from Radman told me exactly what to do and I had it started in minutes. It was the small knurled knob just outboard of the fuel injectors that needed to be opened in order for me to prime the system. Took just a few pumps to fill it back up, closed the knurled knob and it started with a cough and a splutter and then just idled smoothly.

Thanks to all.

 

[Xfaxman]

Thanks for the update :thumbsup:

I checked on my Series F, when I turn on the PTO switch, the light comes on and the High Flow light also comes on.

 

[DogGoneHay]

Thanks, Xfaxman! Yes, when I did get the lights to work on both switches, I noticed that the high flow light comes on when the PTO is engaged, as well. That appears to be normal. I appreciate you posting that.

BTW - I have found an online source for Bobcat parts. It's www.allskidsteers.com. I purchased some filters and I'm buying the manuals and switches from them. They appear to have their act together. I'll keep everyone posted. Any other sources would be very much appreciated. I just don't have the time to go to the dealer to get parts.

 

[hardhat]

Did you ever identify the problem? Mine did the same thing this morning. Started out fine then randomly cut out. Would start back up for 1 second then stop suddenly. Would do same with pto disconnected. I let it sit for 5 minutes and then was able to work for 10 minutes then pto suddenly stopped. Like electrically cut off. Light went out on pto switch. I do sometimes get where the pto won't engage when I hit the switch. Light doesn't come on but pto come on dash and high flow comes on. It pto light does not come on immediately I have to hit pto again to shut off or get an error code. This only happens occasionally. Today light came on as soon as i hit switch and all worked well from that standpoint. I got under the machine and checked resistance on pto diverter solenoid and it was fine. Lubed that connection although it looked fine. Went back out and pto worked flawless rest of the morning and I finished the job.

I don't use pto that often, but I would like it to work when I need it. Any ideas? 2011 F-series 1300 hrs.