Machold
Bronze Member
Since we're talking about pull behind trailers, anyone have any ideas how to improve back-up ability of 4 wheel dump cart? I've lengthened the draw bar, helps a little but it still jack-knifes after a bit.
Pull behind trailer for B series tractors
- Thread starter imajeepnut
- Start date
NIdaho
Bronze Member
I will throw in my 2 cents worth.
Years ago my dad built up a small ~4x6 trailer to haul his ATV over to our lake place in Montana. He started with one of those cheap kits but by the time he was done I don't think he used anything beyond the hubs, wheels and tires. He had expanded metal ramps that attached to the back, and an extra long tongue made of about 2.5" or 3" box tube (extra heavy wall). He also put 12-15" sides on the trailer. The Polaris 4x4 fit inside and he would pull it behind his pickup. Once over at the lake property, we unload the ATV and then used the trailer behind the ATV. We would round it up with tamrack firewood, haul brush, limbs stumps, gravel,..... This little trailer proved to be incredibly useful. When it was time to go back home, we would hitch the trailer back up to the pickup, load the ATV and head back home to Idaho.
As for it wanting to jack-knife -- the extra-long tongue makes a world of difference (further back the axle is from the hitch (pivot point) the easier it will be to back). Don't lengthen the draw-bar on the tractor (doesn't help), but lengthen the trailer's tongue as it will make a big difference. The other thing is the extremely short wheel base of the ATV compounds the problem.
On the other hand, if you use very small adjustments in your steering it can be done. In all of the use of our set-up at the lake place, my son and daughter learned how to back a trailer. Now put them in a pickup with a boat or travel trailer (or my big tandem axle utility trailer) and they can back it with ease. You should see some of the looks they used to get at the boat ramps from older guys when this teenage boy or girl would back around other rigs, down the ramp, then back the boat trailer into a parking spot. It always amazes me how many people can not back a boat trailer up.
Years ago my dad built up a small ~4x6 trailer to haul his ATV over to our lake place in Montana. He started with one of those cheap kits but by the time he was done I don't think he used anything beyond the hubs, wheels and tires. He had expanded metal ramps that attached to the back, and an extra long tongue made of about 2.5" or 3" box tube (extra heavy wall). He also put 12-15" sides on the trailer. The Polaris 4x4 fit inside and he would pull it behind his pickup. Once over at the lake property, we unload the ATV and then used the trailer behind the ATV. We would round it up with tamrack firewood, haul brush, limbs stumps, gravel,..... This little trailer proved to be incredibly useful. When it was time to go back home, we would hitch the trailer back up to the pickup, load the ATV and head back home to Idaho.
As for it wanting to jack-knife -- the extra-long tongue makes a world of difference (further back the axle is from the hitch (pivot point) the easier it will be to back). Don't lengthen the draw-bar on the tractor (doesn't help), but lengthen the trailer's tongue as it will make a big difference. The other thing is the extremely short wheel base of the ATV compounds the problem.
On the other hand, if you use very small adjustments in your steering it can be done. In all of the use of our set-up at the lake place, my son and daughter learned how to back a trailer. Now put them in a pickup with a boat or travel trailer (or my big tandem axle utility trailer) and they can back it with ease. You should see some of the looks they used to get at the boat ramps from older guys when this teenage boy or girl would back around other rigs, down the ramp, then back the boat trailer into a parking spot. It always amazes me how many people can not back a boat trailer up.
thavil
Platinum Member
Haven't tried to unload dirt yet but it should work. Mine isn't PTO driven, so I would be unloading dirt while driving around. The Millcreek brand has two separate arms to engage the beater bar and the track to move the stuff rearward.
BXpanded
Silver Member, Approved Advertiser
Practice, practice, practice!
There is no way to make it easy... 4 wheel wagons are just inherently difficult to back. You can back one with some difficulty with a tractor but it's an absolute nightmare with a long wheel base truck.
bigdad
Platinum Member
I bought a wagon kit from Northern Tool that has worked out pretty well for me. 2200 lbs. 4 foot by (up to) 8 feet. I just built a wooden box for it and welded a ball receiver on it the tongue. Low speed for local use. I did have to replace the wheel bearings.
Oh yes...... I CAN'T back it. Ha!
Oh yes...... I CAN'T back it. Ha!
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Machold
Bronze Member
Thanks for for nice rep;y! Nice story; and, yes, I meant to say, tongue, instead of drawbar. I have lengthened it and it does work better but not almost perfectly.
pdowling1
Silver Member
I would reconsider using a manure spreader for dirt. You are going to destroy the unloader mechanism that way. Dirt is MUCH heavier than any kind of manure, and it will just break the thing up, unless you keep the load only a few inches deep. (Been there, broke it right away, fixed it, broke it right away......get the idea?)
As far as backing a wagon is concerned, it just takes practice, and small steering adjustments. If you want a real challenge, try backing TWO wagons at once!
As far as backing a wagon is concerned, it just takes practice, and small steering adjustments. If you want a real challenge, try backing TWO wagons at once!
nh DRAGON
Gold Member
Yeah! I was thinking the same thing. If you would like to get one of these for the fact that it is on the low side and easy to load than that is cool!
but you will want to think of anther way of unloading it.
Could get a 12v. dump for it instead.