Question for other owners of LS tractors

[Lawrence Black]

New to the site, here.

I have a question concerning my LS 3135 (bought new in 2015). I bought it to begin reclaiming the property that was the family farm I grew up on and I've been brushhogging the acreage, slowly pushing back the brambles, small bushes and wild raspberry/blackberry plants using a 5' rotary mower deck with a slip-clutch (I need to clear about 50-60 acres).

The first couple years, everything was going along well, but this year I've had an issue with the tractor derating after a few hours of continuous use of the rotary mower. Running the mower deck will drag the engine rpm down a few hundred, but the engine will recover if I push the clutch in and ease the load on the PTO. When this happens, I usually just find a clear area and initiate a regen (the tractor is equipped with a Tier 4 diesel engine) . The issue is that I have checked the rear axle housing and find it too hot to keep my bare hand on it for more than a second or two. Is this normal for a compact tractor? I don't recall ever seeing this with a full size tractor.

The LS is direct drive with a shuttle shift on the dash, and the hydraulic oil does double duty as the gear oil for the PTO and drive train, as well as running the 3-point hitch and front loader (the front axle has a separate lube system). The oil level for the rear axle doesn't show any signs of contamination or leakage.

Nothing in my owner's manual mentions anything like this, and my dealer doesn't seem to think it's a big deal, but I'm worried about potentially damaging the PTO.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Sparkeee24]

It sounds like tractor may be just a size or two too small for your tasks, or taking it too fast. Is the chafe screen clear? Radiators clear? What about a binding load in cutter like barb wire? A lot of clutch slipping? Sounds like something that may cause premature problems if not adressed. Could be as simple as new fluid.

 

[Lawrence Black]

Thanks, Sparkeee24.

I sized the mower for the HP of the tractor. I mow at the recommended rpm and travel in middle range, 1st gear. Radiator and screens clear and no indication of overheating. I checked the deck for wire and it's clear. The clutch isn't slipping at all, unless I happen to mow woody brush (mower can shear up to 1" stock w/out issue). "Premature problems" is just what I'm worried about.

I checked the oil in the gearbox of the mower deck. It's full, but when I pulled out the check screw, the fluid did look a little brownish, almost as if it has gotten some water in it. But the gearbox never gets hot, and there's no sign of any leakage. I may just go ahead and replace the fluid anyway, just in case.

 

[countrybumpkin]

When’s the last time the fuel filters have been changed?

 

[SPYDERLK]

New to the site, here.

I have a question concerning my LS 3135 (bought new in 2015). I bought it to begin reclaiming the property that was the family farm I grew up on and I've been brushhogging the acreage, slowly pushing back the brambles, small bushes and wild raspberry/blackberry plants using a 5' rotary mower deck with a slip-clutch (I need to clear about 50-60 acres).

The first couple years, everything was going along well, but this year I've had an issue with the tractor derating after a few hours of continuous use of the rotary mower. Running the mower deck will drag the engine rpm down a few hundred, but the engine will recover if I push the clutch in and ease the load on the PTO. When this happens, I usually just find a clear area and initiate a regen (the tractor is equipped with a Tier 4 diesel engine)View attachment 568290. The issue is that I have checked the rear axle housing and find it too hot to keep my bare hand on it for more than a second or two. Is this normal for a compact tractor? I don't recall ever seeing this with a full size tractor.

The LS is direct drive with a shuttle shift on the dash, and the hydraulic oil does double duty as the gear oil for the PTO and drive train, as well as running the 3-point hitch and front loader (the front axle has a separate lube system). The oil level for the rear axle doesn't show any signs of contamination or leakage.

Nothing in my owner's manual mentions anything like this, and my dealer doesn't seem to think it's a big deal, but I'm worried about potentially damaging the PTO.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

I do not have an LS, but I have several gear tractors in the 25 - 45 HP range.

The degree of heat you mention is not alarming. A tractor working hard on a 80-90 degree day will get hot from stem to stern. It was pretty amazing to me to experience it on my 2010 JD in long term heavy mowing with a 5' bushog. It got so my feet were uncomfortable on the floor platform -- in shoes!
. . . The bushog gearbox was just comfortably warm.​

============​

Is your derating a computer controlled function? Perhaps a sensor or software parameter needs to be assessed by the dealer. :confused3:

 

[Texasmark]

Get a non contact thermometer and shoot around your machine. Sometimes HF has them for 19 bucks. Oil starts derading up around 250F range so if you are below that I wouldn't worry. On the fluid, check your owner's manual. May be time to change it and the tran/hyd filter. Ensure that you use "premium" trans/hyd fluid made for todays tractors with wet brakes and hydro steering and all. Your tractor may have 3 coolers up front of the engine: Hydraulic, AC, and engine radiator. Ensure all are clean.

 

[Lawrence Black]

The filters--and all fluids except anti-freeze--were changed for it's 50 hr break-in service. That was about 18 months ago and I'm just at 112 hours now. I did check things out and found a slight kink in the hydraulic hose leading to the radiator for the hydraulic/transmission fluid. I took care of that and hopefully that will address the issue of the too hot rearend casing. I also took out the air filter and cleared the dust from that. (It was a little dusty, but far from seriously clogged)

I'll know more tomorrow if that fixes my issue. If not, it's still well under the extended powertrain warranty and I'll call the dealer back on Monday.

 

[Lawrence Black]

Thanks for the information about the heat issue. I may have used the wrong term when I spoke about "derating". It's more like it just loses power if faced with heavy grass (which it never had a problem with before) or climbing a grade more than ~30 degrees (also something new). The regen light almost never lights up, but that was what the dealer told me to try when I had this issue one time last year. I did a forced regen but the problem persists. As I wrote in another reply, I did find a hose leading to the hydraulic fluid radiator that had a slight kink. I fixed that so it may lessen the extreme heat some.

If the problem persists, it's still under the manufacturers extended powertrain warranty so I'll just call the dealer on Monday.

 

[Lawrence Black]

The hyd oil and engine oil were changed for the break-in service at 45 hours. I'm only at 110 hours now and my manual says it's not due for a change until 500.

 

[Ivan49]

Check your air filter brush hogging causes a lot of dust and the air filter may need to be cleaned everyday. Also check the screen on your radiator