That's the problem! If I remove the link, the distance from the bottom pins will be about 20 inches. So, setting the link to 15" and welding it will be the only way to make it work. Going with the chains will give me the up movement that the link was designed to do. The dealer should tell customers these things. Had I known, I would have gone with the JD hog instead.
Question, I Match won't lift Bush hog
- Thread starter wooden
- Start date
That's the problem! If I remove the link, the distance from the bottom pins will be about 20 inches. So, setting the link to 15" and welding it will be the only way to make it work. Going with the chains will give me the up movement that the link was designed to do. The dealer should tell customers these things. Had I known, I would have gone with the JD hog instead.
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
I was looking at the picture you posted yesterday and was wondering if the linkage was assembled correctly to start with? Is the vertical distance on the existing yoke 18" or 15"?
When you look at a Deere MX6 the only purpose the bars serve (more than chains)is to keep the hitch from falling back when you hook up. I think chains are simpler for sure.
If you look at the linkage in the pics below and compare the tilting angles to Beenthere's linkage it will tilt about the same amount.
Wooden, I see we were posting at the same time, if your top link is 20" above the lower pins that is alot! The yoke still has to swivel even if you use chains.
When you look at a Deere MX6 the only purpose the bars serve (more than chains)is to keep the hitch from falling back when you hook up. I think chains are simpler for sure.
If you look at the linkage in the pics below and compare the tilting angles to Beenthere's linkage it will tilt about the same amount.
Wooden, I see we were posting at the same time, if your top link is 20" above the lower pins that is alot! The yoke still has to swivel even if you use chains.
Hi Guys,
I machined stainless bushings to fit my Woods HC60. I didn't know about floating the hog (Nice job Beenthere!).
I used Woods set up and I have no problems, the distances were ok, there is some flexibilty in the arms but not like you get with chains.
Rob
I machined stainless bushings to fit my Woods HC60. I didn't know about floating the hog (Nice job Beenthere!).
I used Woods set up and I have no problems, the distances were ok, there is some flexibilty in the arms but not like you get with chains.
Rob
Attachments
Here is what I have. I an trying my best not to have to weld that floating link and maybe if I drilled new holes in the deck bracket and lowered the top link to the required 15 inches it will not pop out of the i match center hook. It's worth a try.
Wooden,
What if you moved the the arms from the back to the front bushing where it attaches to the I match. Would that be the right height? Sort of like my third picture.
Rob
Here is what I have. I an trying my best not to have to weld that floating link and maybe if I drilled new holes in the deck bracket and lowered the top link to the required 15 inches, it will not pop out of the i match center hook. It's worth a try. You can see that the lower mounting bolts were lowered already by 1 5/16" which was not enough, so I will try putting the link in a horizontal position and measuring the distance from lower pins to the link, and setting new holes so that they are at 15" apart. Its the only choice I have at this point.
Less of course someone here comes up with a better idea!! I am wide open and learning!!
Less of course someone here comes up with a better idea!! I am wide open and learning!!
Attachments
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,092
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Do what you want, but Rob has a great solution.
If me, I'd toss the short floating link, and put the top hook of the QH right under that top RC pin/bushing. Then toss the steel straps to the rear and replace with chain.
I wouldn't try to trust the floating link to not pop out of the center hook.
If me, I'd toss the short floating link, and put the top hook of the QH right under that top RC pin/bushing. Then toss the steel straps to the rear and replace with chain.
I wouldn't try to trust the floating link to not pop out of the center hook.
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Beenthere and Rob,
I thought I had explained this very thing, with the crude sketch and again with pictures in my second post. The only way having the tabs out front would work is with a standard top link.
I thought I had explained this very thing, with the crude sketch and again with pictures in my second post. The only way having the tabs out front would work is with a standard top link.
jenkinsph
Super Star Member
Wooden,
Looking at your pictures, I would drill new holes in the gusset plates on your deck to lower the entire top link assembly. I would then unbolt the swivel sections, remove the two braces from the joint and retighten this connection. Next I would flip the short bars rear wards and bolt these too the rear braces with a nylock bolt nut and washers (needs to be loose enough to swivel). When you rebolt the bottom end use nylocks there too so the lower mounts can swivel.
When you do this assembly the top link with bushing should line up almost plumb with the lower lift pins.
All you need is about 4 nylock nuts and a bushing for materials and drill two new holes.
Looking at your pictures, I would drill new holes in the gusset plates on your deck to lower the entire top link assembly. I would then unbolt the swivel sections, remove the two braces from the joint and retighten this connection. Next I would flip the short bars rear wards and bolt these too the rear braces with a nylock bolt nut and washers (needs to be loose enough to swivel). When you rebolt the bottom end use nylocks there too so the lower mounts can swivel.
When you do this assembly the top link with bushing should line up almost plumb with the lower lift pins.
All you need is about 4 nylock nuts and a bushing for materials and drill two new holes.
Steve,
I think what's creating confusion is that we can't see the I match juxtaposed to the BH because mine lines up with no problems.
I see where Wooden has plenty of room on the gusset plates to lower or raise the supporting arms to get the proper distance.
Sorry I missed your drawing.
Rob
I think what's creating confusion is that we can't see the I match juxtaposed to the BH because mine lines up with no problems.
I see where Wooden has plenty of room on the gusset plates to lower or raise the supporting arms to get the proper distance.
Sorry I missed your drawing.
Rob