Questions about the PowerTrac 425

[johara1]

The only limit i have is engine oil on a 2-1 slope or 30 degree with the Steiner as you stated if you need work done as you describe better get a real track machine in and do it right these little machines will maintain what was done. A 1-1 slope isn't steep for a dozer to the point of childs play. but to do it right the first time is the key and then you can use one of these Powertrac, Steiner or Ventrac toys to keep it nice

 

[SpringHollow]

Sounds like you are a great steward of your land. That is always nice to see. I feel obligated to leave a place better than I found it.

Ken

 

[johara1]

Yep, You want a job right do it right the first time……. Don't wear the dirt out over and over again, use the right tool for the job………. you are money ahead.

 

[KentT]

I use my PT-425 to maintain about 1/8 mi of steep gravel driveway. Each spring I use the minihoe to clean out and reshape the ditches so the culverts don't clog with leaves and debris. I use a variety of attachments to keep it smoothed out. I have an aftermarket landscape rake with a QA plate added. It manually angles, has caster wheels, and most importantly each caster has height adjustment shims/spacers like PT uses on their mower decks, snow/dirt blade, etc. By angling the rake and adjusting the height of the farthest end higher, I can crown the driveway. (Note that the PT factory rake does not angle, have casters, nor can you adjust one side higher than the other.)

Similarly, I can adjust the angle and height of the PT's power-angle snow/dirt blade and crown it, if there is enough loose material to do so. Note that the PT tends to pull better (even in reverse) than to push forward without spinning. So, if there's not enough loose gravel, the landscape rake will rake more material loose easier than you can scrape/doze it loose by pushing the blade, without spinning and doing more damage.

When it gets badly pot-holed or wash-boarded, I use the aftermarket (Keen Kutter) 48" boxblade with QA plate added) to scrape the high spots down level with the lowest part of the potholes or washboards, then drag and redistribute the gravel. Simply filling a pothole in a gravel driveway doesn't work long-term. The loose fill material will just work its way back out of the hard-packed pocket holding it. You must cut the entire pocket out, and start over. As posted elsewhere here, I recommend aftermarket boxblades because they are heavier duty (weight on a boxblade is your friend), have cutting edges for both pushing and pulling, and have replaceable scarifier teeth). I've also used the boxblade to cut the edge/shoulder of the ditch off, dragging it out into the driveway to reclaim the gravel material, and improve the drainage.

Note one disadvantage of using a boxblade on a PT is that you cannot adjust one side higher like you can on a 3-pt hitch to make a crown in the driveway.

For quick smoothing and redistribution of loose gravel, I pull a section of chain-link fence with weight on it behind the PT.

I haven't done a lot of trail building, but I've done a significant amount of woodlot management, clearing of undergrowth and junk trees, etc. I strongly recommend the PT grapple bucket. It digs better than the HD rock/dirt bucket due to its longer teeth, and handles brush and logs quite well. It's my most used implement...

Also note that I've put larger displacement wheelmotors on my PT, significantly increasing their torque. My limitation now is traction without spinning, not "power" per se.

Hope my experience is of some help/value...