Questions about using my tractor L2501 manual trans

[1930]

Im gonna have some questions, rather than have 12 different threads Im gonna post them here over time and hope someone will come back and answer them for me.

My dealer was supposed to demo the tractor for me on Fri when I picked up but for whatever reason did not do this ( just left with no notice ) so I was left stuck trying to figure out how to safely operate the tractor on my own.

First questions: There is a high and low range, seems low is much to low for moving the tractor around even on my sandy property, Im not in a rush but putting it in low and then shifting trans to 1st or 2nd gear is stupid slow so would you suggest putting it in H and then is it OK to start out in 2nd gear?

Seems from my experience that 1st gear in either low or high gear was just too slow but I dont want to start out in 2 high if that is gonna wear the clutch faster?

I need to read again my manuals, Ive read them already but need to re read. Im sure I can get alot of my questions answered there.

I didnt get the demo of un attaching the back hoe. A couple of guys at Agricon tried to show me Fri evening but were not successful.

I am real dissapointed in the fact that I didnt get the demo, in my opinion it was a B.S move to have me sign the papers and then not demo the machine as was promised but I cant control that.

 

[mcfarmall]

According to the Kubota website, you tractor has 4 gears and 2 ranges. You can use any of the gear/range combinations to obtain the travel speed you wish to use. Clutch wear depends on you, the user. If you ride the clutch or take forever to let out on it, you will wear it out faster. The objective is to engage the clutch fast enough to achieve a smooth transition from a standstill to the desired speed as quickly as possible without popping a wheelie or damaging any equipment.

If you are pulling from your driveway onto the road you would start out in 4 High and take off. If your transmission is fully synchronized, which it appears yours is NOT, then you can shift gears within a range just by clutching as you would in an automobile. With a synchronized tranny you would start out in H1 and proceed through the gears to end up in H4. Typically ranges (H,M,L) are not synchronized, only the gears (1,2,3,4,etc.) are.

The backhoe stuff someone else will have to chime in.

 

[Agvg]

If it starts nice in 2H it's no more wear on the clutch, do you have experience with manual transmissions?

 

[looch]

The last non-synchro, manual tractor transmission I owned was on a B5100E. You take off in whatever gear you want to end up in - i.e. no shifting while moving.

Watch Youtube for the backhoe removal. My BH70 goes like this:

1) Lower the stabilizers to about 15" off the ground;
2) With the dipper fully retracted and the bucket curled, lower the boom until the bucket touches the ground;
3) Lower the boom a little more to "slightly" lift the rear tractor - tires still touching, just taking some weight off;
4) Remove the upper pins. Tilt the BH forward by using the boom controls;
5) Lower the stabilizers, lifting the BH until the lower pins clear the hooks;
6) Move the tractor forward about 8";
7) Shut down the tractor, move the BH controls around to relieve pressure, disconnect them.
8) **Critical Step*** You will most probably need to allow the hydraulic circuit to complete its path by "patching" one of the tractor's lines back into one of the tractor's couplers. Do not start the tractor without performing this step - lest you cause expensive damage.

I made a stand for mine out of some 2x's and a couple of furniture dollies, so my process is slightly different than what I wrote.

 

[Ivan49]

Im gonna have some questions, rather than have 12 different threads Im gonna post them here over time and hope someone will come back and answer them for me.

My dealer was supposed to demo the tractor for me on Fri when I picked up but for whatever reason did not do this ( just left with no notice ) so I was left stuck trying to figure out how to safely operate the tractor on my own.

First questions: There is a high and low range, seems low is much to low for moving the tractor around even on my sandy property, Im not in a rush but putting it in low and then shifting trans to 1st or 2nd gear is stupid slow so would you suggest putting it in H and then is it OK to start out in 2nd gear?

Seems from my experience that 1st gear in either low or high gear was just too slow but I dont want to start out in 2 high if that is gonna wear the clutch faster?

I need to read again my manuals, Ive read them already but need to re read. Im sure I can get alot of my questions answered there.

I didnt get the demo of un attaching the back hoe. A couple of guys at Agricon tried to show me Fri evening but were not successful.

I am real dissapointed in the fact that I didnt get the demo, in my opinion it was a B.S move to have me sign the papers and then not demo the machine as was promised but I cant control that.

Firsst off I woud be getting ahold of that dealer and chew some behind. He could be at fault because he did not give you the demo. I would never sign for anything until I was ok with how it works. Now for you question you must shove the clutch all the ay down to change gears with the tractor stopped. When you use the shuttle tractor must be stopped to go from forward to reverse. It will shift at a slow speed but it is better to come to a stop and make sure the clutch is all the way down when doing this. the low or high range lever is just that it slows the ground speed. If I am doing loader work I use low in 3rd or 4 th gear a lot.. If you are unsure how the tractor works just use low gear in maybe second or third gear until you feel more at home with it. If you have a loader ALWAYS move with the loader close to the ground and try to avoid using the loader on a side hill in the high up position as tractor may tip over. Did you get the rear wheel loaded with fluid if do so as it adds weight to help stabilize the tractor. When using the loader it isbest to have something heavy on the 3 pt hitch to help hold the rear down

 

[Ivan49]

Forgot to add it will not star if the shuttle lever in not neutral position and someone sitting in the seat. The seat cane be flipped up and it will start as along as the lever is neutral position. If you ar running it you have to be sitting in the seat at all times or the trator will shut off

 

[1930]

If it starts nice in 2H it's no more wear on the clutch, do you have experience with manual transmissions?

Yes with cars plenty, tractors none. I wouldn't start my car or truck out in 3rd gear, to do so means rpm and clutch wear for sure

 

[1930]

Forgot to add it will not star if the shuttle lever in not neutral position and someone sitting in the seat. The seat cane be flipped up and it will start as along as the lever is neutral position. If you ar running it you have to be sitting in the seat at all times or the trator will shut off

That's what I had read in manual however the tractor will start wether I am in drivers seat or not and if I want to hop off tractor all I need to do is shift the selector to neutral and get off

 

[1930]

Im also wondering if it's possible to not get hydraulic fluid all over my hands when I change front attachments?

 

[Ortimber]

I don’t believe the gears are synchronized on this tractor, so you start out in the gear and range of your choice. Shifting 1-4 can probably done while on the move but I don’t think that is how it’s intended to work.