Questions about using my tractor L2501 manual trans

[Agvg]

Yes with cars plenty, tractors none. I wouldn't start my car or truck out in 3rd gear, to do so means rpm and clutch wear for sure

Then you have the feeling, just the same with tractors.

 

[Agvg]

I don’t believe the gears are synchronized on this tractor, so you start out in the gear and range of your choice. Shifting 1-4 can probably done while on the move but I don’t think that is how it’s intended to work.

The challenge with tractors and usyncronzed gears are speed, you may stop befor you get the next gear in. And some are more easy to shift quickly without grinding the gears.

 

[Ivan49]

Im also wondering if it's possible to not get hydraulic fluid all over my hands when I change front attachments?

What attachments are you changing to. Usually with quick disconnects you may get a little but not much if any at all. Relieve all pressure from the system before unhooking the lines and it will not reconnect under pressure

 

[1930]

What attachments are you changing to. Usually with quick disconnects you may get a little but not much if any at all. Relieve all pressure from the system before unhooking the lines and it will not reconnect under pressure

Switching between a grapple and the front end loader

 

[nybirdman]

We have a similar tractor L3000DT;you must come to a complete stop to change gears or ranges.You can start in any gear with no problem.Tractors are not like manual shift cars where starting in a higher gear promotes premature clutch wear.
To change hydraulic lines ;drop the FEL and rear third point down,move joy stick around to relieve pressure and the Quick disconnects should be easy to remove with little fluid loss.In summer the lines may be hot and a little difficult to reinstall;loosen a fitting to release pressure.

 

[Ivan49]

Switching between a grapple and the front end loader

Very little oil loss, besides thats what pant legs are for

 

[ericm979]

The common ag connectors dribble a half teaspoon or so. Usually most of it is in the female half. Sometimes you can keep some of that in when plugging in a new male half. I use a rag to catch the drips.

Plug the grapple's connectors together when you take it off. Keeps the connectors clean and reduces the chances of pressure buildup in the grapple side that would make it difficult to connect later. Use dust caps/plugs on the tractor side connectors. Install some if they were not included.

 

[Ivan49]

We have a similar tractor L3000DT;you must come to a complete stop to change gears or ranges.You can start in any gear with no problem.Tractors are not like manual shift cars where starting in a higher gear promotes premature clutch wear.
To change hydraulic lines ;drop the FEL and rear third point down,move joy stick around to relieve pressure and the Quick disconnects should be easy to remove with little fluid loss.In summer the lines may be hot and a little difficult to reinstall;loosen a fitting to release pressure.

No need toloosen the fitting. Shut the tractor off and release pressure on that side with engine off and on the implement side a rag wraped around the fitting just push it down on a hard surface. If it does not release just tap it hard against a hard surface. No toold required and you won't lose any oil to say