Quick hitch setup advice

[JRP]

Sometimes I have wanted to take my Speeco and cut a big half round cutout the same radius as OD of some heavy wall 6" pipe under the top link, then weld a section of pipe there. (Not a full round piece, only a section of a full round piece). With schedule 80 or 100 pipe it probably would not weaken the hitch.

Does any one have an opinion about that? If i didn't di it myself I think my local welder could do it for $35 or so. This might be less expensive than the kit, and it fixes the problem for any implement.

 

[Neophyte]

I'm sure this would happen with with nearly all of these style of quick hitches.

I don't seem to have this problem when I connect my LandPride FDR2572 RFM to my iMatch. I keep my 3PH at the lowest setting and the PTO shaft never comes in contact with the iMatch.

The attached picture doesn't really show the separation well. I will try to take a better picture the next time I have it hooked up.

 

[Neophyte]

By the way, I checked the price on the Woods Quick Hitch Kit at my local Woods dealer and it's $126. I can post the part number if anyone is interested.

 

[radman1]

Neophyte
I may have went a little too far with my statement on nearly all quick hitches hitting the PTO staft. The imatch quick hitch has its hook mounted permanently behind the cross bar of the quick hitch. The speeco and many others have the hook mounted on an adjustable bracket above the crossbar. This would lower the cross bar a few inches which may allow it to hit the pto shaft. Also as mentioned earlier, the cross bar on the speeco is a 4" square tube and the Imatch is roughly 2x4" which would also help with the clearance.
The 3000 JD series are also relatively low to the ground compared to my Kubota and DX 29 and the tractor PTO shaft may also be slightly lower. I don't have actual measurements, but I will be getting a JD 3720 in a few days and trading in the Kubota. The hitch on the 3000 series certainly appears to be lower. I'll have to measure the different tractors sometime.
When I mow, I don't want to have excessive float for the mower. As long as it can drop in the front or back a few inches that is what I like. If the front drops in a 4-6" deep hole or ditch, I want the tractor to carry the front, otherwise I get too much scalping. By setting the lift control depth, it solves all problems.

 

[JHTFarmer]

The problem is not the quick hitch but the floating part of the mower. The solution is easy and costs nothing. Your lift control lever should have a lowering stop on it. Just set the stop on the lift lever to where the quick hitch will remain a couple of inches above the PTO shaft.
.

Thanks
But, if the remedy isn't the quick hitch adapter for the mower, I've got a problem because I don't think there is a lift control stop on the 3pt hitch lever on a DX40.

Rich

 

[bones1]

Sometimes I have wanted to take my Speeco and cut a big half round cutout the same radius as OD of some heavy wall 6" pipe under the top link, then weld a section of pipe there. (Not a full round piece, only a section of a full round piece). With schedule 80 or 100 pipe it probably would not weaken the hitch.

Does any one have an opinion about that? If i didn't di it myself I think my local welder could do it for $35 or so. This might be less expensive than the kit, and it fixes the problem for any implement.

JRP, I had the exact same idea as that.I mean exactly..scary.

 

[Neophyte]

Thanks
But, if the remedy isn't the quick hitch adapter for the mower, I've got a problem because I don't think there is a lift control stop on the 3pt hitch lever on a DX40.

As I recall, both the DX and TC series have lever stops. I found these pictures on the Case-IH and New Holland websites; both appear to have lever stops. Is it possible yours fell off?

 

[JHTFarmer]

As I recall, both the DX and TC series have lever stops. I found these pictures on the Case-IH and New Holland websites; both appear to have lever stops. Is it possible yours fell off?

Thanks,

I guess mine must have fallen off at some point. But, wouldn't the 3 pt hitch still eventually bleed down to rest on the PTO shaft over a period of non-use?


Rich

 

[radman1]

Thanks,

I guess mine must have fallen off at some point. But, wouldn't the 3 pt hitch still eventually bleed down to rest on the PTO shaft over a period of non-use?


Rich

I have had my lift up on my DX 29 for several days without it noticably bleeding down with a quick hitch on and no weight on the lift arms. Even if it did bleed down and rested on the pto shaft, the amount of weight resting on the shaft is negligible.
Call your dealer, you should be able to get a lift stop. Now I see why your having problems.

 

[Ductape]

I would say that if welding in the section of tubing will give you enough clearance, then i would go ahead and do it. I'm sure the hitch manufacturer wouldn't recommend it, but if the piece is heavy enough, i don't see where it will cause a problem. I've seen it done hundreds of times on car / pickup frames when more clearance was needed. I'd still get the bushings on the lower pins though.