Rake Design Help Needed....
- Thread starter Maine_Polack
- Start date
OP
Maine_Polack
Gold Member
I also have parts and pieces of old horse drawn "Spring tooth" harrows. Have 30 teeth in all. A couple of different sizes, but I think I can make them work for rake teeth.
[About 25 yrs. ago I used the harrow in front - pulled by a "63", 4 cyl, International Scout, door yard plow - to help level a couple of acres around my house.]
[About 25 yrs. ago I used the harrow in front - pulled by a "63", 4 cyl, International Scout, door yard plow - to help level a couple of acres around my house.]
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OP
Maine_Polack
Gold Member
I would like to use these "spring teeth", mounted on a "beam", ( have some heavy angle iron I'm hoping to use), to fab. a removable rake that would attach to the bottom rear of the blade. See first photo.
I realize it would be heavy, that's what I want.
I would like to attach the beam - with teeth permanently mounted on it - using pins (?), or... in such a way that it is not a half hour job to mount/detach.
I am certainly "designly challanged", and have used this forum for many of the ideas it has presented.
When I think about attaching/detaching this rake, my face says !!!, and my brain turns to oatmeal.
I am looking for people with Visiion to help me solve my problem....well this one, that I'm willing to talk about anyway.
Al
I realize it would be heavy, that's what I want.
I would like to attach the beam - with teeth permanently mounted on it - using pins (?), or... in such a way that it is not a half hour job to mount/detach.
I am certainly "designly challanged", and have used this forum for many of the ideas it has presented.
When I think about attaching/detaching this rake, my face says
!!!, and my brain turns to oatmeal.I am looking for people with Visiion to help me solve my problem....well this one, that I'm willing to talk about anyway.
Al
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herringchoker
Platinum Member
MainePolack
I rigged some spring teeth on an angle bar as you plan and it works extremely well. I find I need no weight to draw the teeth into the ground....their shape takes care of that: the harder the digging, the deeper they want to dig. Anyway, I built a multi-purpose receiver hitch for my 3PH. It has 3 - 2" x 2" receiver tubes, 1 in the centre for a trailer ball and a pair on the outsides to mount the spring tooth bar, future forks, etc., etc. Installing the spring tooth bar is easy - just pull 2 pins. insert and reinstall the pins. Perhaps you could weld 2 receiver tubes onto your blade for the quick attach setup.
Attached are photos of the receiver hitch and the harrow in action. Sorry, I don't have a closeup of the harrow.
I rigged some spring teeth on an angle bar as you plan and it works extremely well. I find I need no weight to draw the teeth into the ground....their shape takes care of that: the harder the digging, the deeper they want to dig. Anyway, I built a multi-purpose receiver hitch for my 3PH. It has 3 - 2" x 2" receiver tubes, 1 in the centre for a trailer ball and a pair on the outsides to mount the spring tooth bar, future forks, etc., etc. Installing the spring tooth bar is easy - just pull 2 pins. insert and reinstall the pins. Perhaps you could weld 2 receiver tubes onto your blade for the quick attach setup.
Attached are photos of the receiver hitch and the harrow in action. Sorry, I don't have a closeup of the harrow.
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GaryE
Platinum Member
Looks like a fun project! One I have been thinking about for a while. If I can be of any help, please PM me… I would be happy to help you out with any welding you may need. Your spring harrow looks like one my neighbor has. If you have the spring tines, the rest should be easy.
Gary
Gary
OP
Maine_Polack
Gold Member
Gary, Thanks for the offer, but I enjoy welding. Not much good at it, but haven't had a weld break yet.
I'm about an hour ride away from you. Sangerville.
I'm about an hour ride away from you. Sangerville.
OP
Maine_Polack
Gold Member
"Choker of Herring"
I actually do have a couple of recievers on the blade, per attachment.
You've got me thinking that perhaps I am making this more complicated than need be. I wanted to use the blade because it angled and swiveled. Maybe I don't really need the rake to do this.
I appreciate your input, cause now I'm really cogitating on it.
I actually do have a couple of recievers on the blade, per attachment.
You've got me thinking that perhaps I am making this more complicated than need be. I wanted to use the blade because it angled and swiveled. Maybe I don't really need the rake to do this.
I appreciate your input, cause now I'm really cogitating on it.
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schmism
Super Member
your mockup is almost there IMO
take some heavy gauge C cannel weld a series of 1" pins to the top 6, 8 , 12" whatever on center , drill matching holes in the rear stifening rib of the blade.
then bolt the tines on to the C.
something like
or you could go with heavy angle and bolt the font of the tines to the back of the L and weld some little reinforcemnt triangles to the inside of the L
i could be underestimateing the bending force involved but if properly braced i think it would work
the reason i say C or L is with tube you'd have no way of fishing nuts into the tube, although if it was heavy wall stuff i suppose you could tap it.
take some heavy gauge C cannel weld a series of 1" pins to the top 6, 8 , 12" whatever on center , drill matching holes in the rear stifening rib of the blade.
then bolt the tines on to the C.
something like
or you could go with heavy angle and bolt the font of the tines to the back of the L and weld some little reinforcemnt triangles to the inside of the L
i could be underestimateing the bending force involved but if properly braced i think it would work
the reason i say C or L is with tube you'd have no way of fishing nuts into the tube, although if it was heavy wall stuff i suppose you could tap it.
MrJimi
Elite Member, Rest in Peace
I made something simular to this except, I made mine first!
and here is link
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200053574_200053574
I made mine from scrap rebar and it is reversable for depth adjustment
Total cost, less than $20
Jim
and here is link
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200053574_200053574
I made mine from scrap rebar and it is reversable for depth adjustment
Total cost, less than $20
Jim
herringchoker
Platinum Member
Schmism has a good idea there, real simple to build. I would bolt the C or L to the blade rather than use pins, to avoid play in the connection.