Removing blades on a finishing mower

[Ozarker]

I remove them with my impact wrench and put them back on with a box wrench. I like to "feel" how tight I have them.

 

[DavidJ]

<font color="blue"> First, I assume that the bolts holding the blade on are RH threaded. Correct? </font>

You would be in danger thinking that /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif . I thought the same thing, after trying to remove them - the right way /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif - and them not budging, I decided to try them the other way; and what do know, they came loose. Had I been paying more attention I would have noticed that my blades were left handed and that shoud have given me a clue /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif . Oh Yeah! and there wasn't any markings on the bolts to let you know what they were.

<font color="blue"> Secondly, how many of you keep a spare set of blades? I was thinking a spare set might be handy. </font>

Since mine are left handed, and almost impossible to find, I keep a spare set, as well as the best blade from the last set I changed just in case I bend or tear one up.

 

[jimg]

After I posted my questions it dawned on me to look at the parts list for the mower. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif (LP has them all online in PDF). I figured if the bolts were LH the parts list would call that out. It didnt so Im going on the notion that they really are RH. BTW what brand of mower do you have???

 

[Nasty135]

siebo, I have a king kutter rfm and its blades are held on by left hand threaded bolts, so you have to turn clockwise to get them off /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gifand blade rotation is the direction as to tighten them while you mow. So they should never come loose. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Birdhunter1]

I would say a 3/4" drive rachet/breaker bar or a 1/2" impact would work fine. One thing I'm surprised I haven't seen posted yet is to block that mower when you crawl underneath of it. Regardless of how new or how well your hydraulics work don't trust them and block that mower in the air when you're under it. Lock your wheels, block the mower up, release all hydraulic pressure and then shut the tractor off. Better safe than sorry.

 

[jimg]

Right! Before I do any work on the mower where I need to be underneath I block it up on jack stands. They are, of course, a total pain to go fishing for in the barn but it would be even a bigger pain if the mower fell on me. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[OkieG]

jim,
If you have a pair of loader forks, and you don't mind removing your deck now and then during mowing season, this is a nice way to access your blades:

Also allows easier cleaning of underside of the deck.

Top view:

If you have a rear finish mower, like siebo, the fork technique might not work so well. For a RFM, finding the jack stands would probably work better.

OkieG

 

[PineRidge]

I let the tractor hydraulics hold up the mower deck high enough on my TC-40D to use an impact wrench to remove all the blade bolts. Mine are left hand thread.

I keep an extra set of blade bolts and pre-sharpened blades hanging on the wall in the pole barn for quick pit stops.

I do use a box wrench to tighten the blade bolts as I am another that likes to feel how tight I am tweaking them.