Removing PTO driveshaft from RC

   / Removing PTO driveshaft from RC #31  
I'd really prefer for a piece of equipment to have external driveline protection, and not depend on the independent pto lockup clutch, or the 2nd stage of my tranny clutch to have to 'give' in a pto overload condition.

It's way easier to replace a shear bolt than to replace a pto clutch pack. I've helped my stepfather replace the independent pto on 2 of his JD tractors. took 2 days each, plus tractor splits.. pluss about 500$ each time in parts... A shear bolt looked 'great' about that time.. As he had made his independent pto clutch slip enough that it no longer could hold the load at the pto without slipping..

Soundguy
 
   / Removing PTO driveshaft from RC #32  
My pto clutch on the JD stalls the tractor engine - a soft stop. The Kubota one will do this too unless the implement stops abruptly. Then the engine runs under high load with no pto rotation. The ear and eye tell the story. The operator must be alert.
 
   / Removing PTO driveshaft from RC #33  
That would be a sick sound to hear a heavily labored engine, and see the pto NOT turning.

It would sound like someone whispering into my ear that I was getting ready to replace a pto clutch.. all the while I would probably feel a hand in my pocket too...

Pto engagement clutches are not designed primarily as driveline protection.. whether they happen to function like it or not. External shear and slip devices are designed for theat.

Like i said.. way easier to reset a slip clutch or tap in a new shear bolt vs splitting a tractor and replacing all the pto clutch innards. been there.. done that...

Using the pto engage clutch in place of adequate driveline protection is kinda like using your front bumper or grill to slam into things instead of using brakes to stop the tractor.. Yeah.. it works... but!?! the tractor hates it.. and there are better ways..

Soundguy
 
   / Removing PTO driveshaft from RC #34  
The Kubota was used, but a recent acquisition when it happened. I had never experienced this but I had had external torque limiting disc packs slip with similar symptom so I didnt ponder before responding. The pto clutch gave no indication of any problem from this. Im reasonably confident that it has slipped other times with brevity beneath notice because I find that torque limiting packs burn up extremely quickly when they slip so I keep them adjusted tight to compare favorably with the torque capability of the pto clutch. My method is to adjust them so that the engine stalls promptly when the bushog is dropped onto a pile of dirt. If the torque limiter pack heats during this stop I tighten it until it doesnt. About a thousand hrs after the noted alarming pto incident I had the engine clutch replaced. The shop said the pto clutch looked good so I didnt replace it.
Maybe I just abuse things right, but I firmly believe that I have saved enuf time not changing shearbolts to do a pto overhaul. If you add that to the too much time I spent discovering how tight torque limit clutches had to be to avoid frivolous slipping and burnout, I know I could have done the job.
I did fail one implement - a JD Gyramor with 100hp gearbox - no stumpjumper, after years of bashing trees up to 6" diameter. The weld holding the blade yoke to its spindle shaft failed, but slipped grudgingly in a notchy manner. The torsional windup of the loaded system followed by the sudden release when it slipped caused a bad sound in the tractor transmission. Thats when I really got to know the John Deere. I took it completely apart looking for the problem. It wasnt there. I imagined many potential causes from my inspection and made everything right - pto clutch was good. Just couldnt find the problem that wasnt there.
My tractors seem to be predictably robust. They take a continuous beating in stride. The damage is only apparent cosmetically. I am amazed to hear of a prevalence of pto failure based on my experience of no problems in 45+ years.
Larry
 
   / Removing PTO driveshaft from RC #35  
Yikes .... The concept of a torque limiter is to allow the implement to slip under stall loads, not stall the tractor out.. that is incredibly hard on a tractor engine.

Torque limiters are dry clutches.. not oil imersed ones. More than likely, an independent pto clutch is oil imersed.. 2 different animals when it comes to heating and burning up.. etc.

Just looking at some of the more common torque limiter adjustment manuals.. if you are stalling your tractor.. then they are not adjusted correctly.

I'd prefer to replace 100 shear bolts, at pennies per unit, and a couple minutes per pop, or even replace a torque limiter at 75-100$ per unit, and 10 minutes per occurance, vs splitting another tractor to replace the pto inards due to no adequate driveline protection. Again.. been there, done that.. got the oily t-shirt. All personal opinions aside..... if you get down to black and white, check the print in the torque limiter adjustment section.. If yours is like the ones in my manuals.. you should not be stalling the tractor if it is set right.. and that's right off the paper.. etc.... What's the purpose of having it, if the load still stalls your tractor. That's a decent amount of diesel being hosed into those cyls and not being combusted... That can't be good for the engine.. lugging it down till it dies.. etc.. ( my manuals on my deisels state to not lug the engine .. etc.. )

Soundguy
 
   / Removing PTO driveshaft from RC #36  
Yikes .... The concept of a torque limiter is to allow the implement to slip under stall loads, not stall the tractor out.. that is incredibly hard on a tractor engine.

Torque limiters are dry clutches.. not oil imersed ones. More than likely, an independent pto clutch is oil imersed.. 2 different animals when it comes to heating and burning up.. etc.

Just looking at some of the more common torque limiter adjustment manuals.. if you are stalling your tractor.. then they are not adjusted correctly.

I'd prefer to replace 100 shear bolts, at pennies per unit, and a couple minutes per pop, or even replace a torque limiter at 75-100$ per unit, and 10 minutes per occurance, vs splitting another tractor to replace the pto inards due to no adequate driveline protection. Again.. been there, done that.. got the oily t-shirt. All personal opinions aside..... if you get down to black and white, check the print in the torque limiter adjustment section.. If yours is like the ones in my manuals.. you should not be stalling the tractor if it is set right.. and that's right off the paper.. etc.... What's the purpose of having it, if the load still stalls your tractor. That's a decent amount of diesel being hosed into those cyls and not being combusted... That can't be good for the engine.. lugging it down till it dies.. etc.. ( my manuals on my deisels state to not lug the engine .. etc.. )

Soundguy
I just noticed this. It is an invalid extrapolation of what I said.
larry
 
   / Removing PTO driveshaft from RC #37  
I just noticed this. It is an invalid extrapolation of what I said.
larry

i'm not sure how. it wasn't an extrapolation.

it was an exclamation on my opinion of how you run yoyur torque limiter... then followed by how most companies say to setup their torque limiters with respect to driving and driven equipment. I was not estimating beyond the known facts.. which an extrapolation would be.

you like your torque limiters to essentially.. not function.

if your mower can stall your tractor.. the torque limiter seems superflous in your setup.

your machine.. you may use or abuse it as you wish.. I statedt eh above so that others who may want to save their multi thousand dollar tractor at the expense of a 100=200$ torque limiter.

I'd much rather repalce a failed limiter than a pto clutch or a tranny or crankshaft.

your call on what you'd like to replace.
 
   / Removing PTO driveshaft from RC #38  
i'm not sure how. it wasn't an extrapolation.

it was an exclamation on my opinion of how you run yoyur torque limiter... then followed by how most companies say to setup their torque limiters with respect to driving and driven equipment. I was not estimating beyond the known facts.. which an extrapolation would be.

you like your torque limiters to essentially.. not function.

if your mower can stall your tractor.. the torque limiter seems superflous in your setup.


your machine.. you may use or abuse it as you wish.. I statedt eh above so that others who may want to save their multi thousand dollar tractor at the expense of a 100=200$ torque limiter.

I'd much rather repalce a failed limiter than a pto clutch or a tranny or crankshaft.

your call on what you'd like to replace.
Those are extrapolations beyond the pale.
... To develop:
I believe you talk of a special case where, on old Fords, parts of the system where upsized externally without internal augmentation. The recipe for failure. Parts of a system must be designed to perform in concert. A tractor PTO clutch is ordinarily designed with this in mind.
...The fact that this clutch is there and is sized for the tractor makes it able to protect the tractor by slipping on a catastrophic overload. That this clutch is exercised regularly and is housed is a stable internal environment favor its stability of action. This in no way means you should not use an external protective device to prevent it seeing such overload - just that malfunction of the external device is not a death knell to a well designed pto system.

... This friction plate type clutch is made to accommodate some slip, whether on engagement or overload. Slipping wears them. Thats the main reason you dont want the interior clutch to slip under full engine power. During implement startup it must slip some as it is engaged so that there is a graceful startup. After engagement it has to be designed such that it can take full engine torque - and then some - so that it will never slip under normal drive circumstances. To do this it must sustain enuf torque to stall the tractor engine. Under a slow stall or bog down situation it shouldnt slip at all. If it did we would see them replaced frequently on tractors that run rotary cutters. Shearing a 3/8" Gr5 shear bolt takes about 100HP worth of torque at 540 RPM. Since 30 - 40 HP tractors have little problem shearing these it shows that the internal clutch slips near or above the 100 HP torque rather than anywhere near the 35 HP torque. You would really like to set an external slip clutch somewhere pretty high in the range but below where the shear bolt gives. Since a slip clutch sustains a [relatively] steady torque when slipping it would bog or stall the engine fairly promptly if set at an 80 HP torque. The internal clutch would not come anywhere near as close to slipping as it did breaking the shear bolt. If friction is set down anywhere near engine stall torque tho you definitely have potential slip clutch problems and will have to frequently adjust it for wear and be very alert to prevent burning it up if you use the equipment to capacity.

My point in all of this is that the tractor pto is pretty strong and has a clutch sized for it that has an overload slip point well above the tractor torque [so it doesnt burn up], but low enuf to slip within the strength of pto components. Still, you dont ever want it to slip except as you engage it and you always would want to use external means to keep it from seeing overloads sufficient to slip it. This would wear the clutch out and stress parts repeatedly to near their full strength. There is however, a large safe range above the tractor steady state torque and below the pto clutch slip torque. Shear bolts make use of the top of this range on ~35HP tractors. They break in an instant, and since the tractor may hardly slow you arent aware of the huge transient load on the pto system. Theres just no reason to be conservative for the tractor sake when adjusting an external slip clutch. High in the range is still below where those shearbolts are breaking.

My experience with serious heavy duty use of a bushog over a 40 year period on 2 different tractors is that this internal clutch protects the tractor side effectively. At a guess Id estimate this clutch is designed to slip at about 3 times the steady state torque that the tractor engine can apply and that this slippage point is within the safe region for all internal drive line components. I adjust my 5' bushog slip clutch by dropping the bushog onto a pile of loose dirt at full rated rpm. With a 35 to 45HP tractor it should bog the tractor very quickly. You have to act quickly to keep from stalling. Next, I disengage the PTO drive and drop the BH in the dirt to stop it - then quickly feel the slip clutch for heat. If there is none it hasnt slipped - loosen and repeat. If it is hot it has slipped a lot [and you may have noticed that the tractor didnt bog]. In this case the clutch is too loose and must be tightened or it will burn up quickly in heavy steady state cutting like thick grass. This is why sneaking up on a correct setting can be counterproductive. The mating of a 5' or 6' bushog to a tractor in the 40 HP range forms a robust system that does not require coddling. However, if the bh is light duty or this size is being run by a 70 hp tractor then one end of the system is comparatively weak. You could not set the slip clutch quite as I do because, even with the compliance of soft dirt a quick bog or stall may output from the PTO stub a transient amt of torque associated with ~3x70 HP. Heavy/medium Duty 5 and 6 foot bushog gearboxes rate at around 100HP. ... So 200, tho momentary, would be pushing it. If the slip clutch is frozen you will probably twist the telescoping pto shaft or else damage the bh gearbox. This is not necessarily too much tractor, but the situation demands a tighter balance to keep from burning up the slipclutch or damaging the implement when you encounter a situation that requires its full capability.

,,,,:confused3: ... Ill settle on replacing nothing. Its worked so far.
larry
 
   / Removing PTO driveshaft from RC #39  
i'll be honest. I didn't read the post except for the last line.

i refer back to my 5th to the last line.

your machine.

with that. I'm really going to try to avoid driectly engaging you in communication. only thing I can do past that to prevent you from seemingly arguing with many of my postings i make in a thread you are in is to toss you into the ignore list. it's standing room only in there now.. so trying to avoid that option for humane reasons... :)

truce? eh?
 
 
 
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