OP
BravoXray
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Nah, I need something I can get my old ass into without a step ladder.
Restarting My '70 Nova Project
- Thread starter BravoXray
- Start date
Nah, I need something I can get my old ass into without a step ladder.
OP
BravoXray
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Been sidelined on some other things lately, but finally got to put in some time on the Nova today. I've also been kinda stalled trying to decide what to do with the right side header. After I had the #6 tube moved, I put it back on and found that the idler arm hits the #4 tube when you turn to the left, and doesn't just touch it, but actually prevents it from turning full left. I pulled it back off and dented the tube in about 3/4" and now it will clear, but just barely. This just bugs me a lot, and have been trying a few combinations of elbows to see it I can move it to get enough clearance. Still cogitating on that, but the show must go on, that header is easy to get back in, unlike the driver's side.
So, I rolled the engine, trans and subframe under the body, got it aligned with the alignment holes and installed all the body mounts. Once I was sure it was positioned correctly I tightened all the bolts, and hopefully that's the last time I'll need to so that.
Today, I had to remove the transmission mount and lower the rear of the transmission to be able to get to some of the bolts that hold the shifter assembly to the transmission. Once that was done, I decided to install the shifter lever and boot. That was a real pain in the behind. If you've ever tried drilling through carpet and padding material, you know what I'm talking about. I tried to ream out a hole for the drill so I could drill holes for the screws that secure the trim plate and shifter boot without the bit getting wound if in the material, but that didn't go so well. It ended up taking an hour and a half to get four holes drilled and four screws installed, but I got it done. I think it looks pretty good, and the shifter is positioned just about where it was on the old Muncie, but a couple of inches taller.
I worked on the clutch linkage, got that all assembled but had to make a new bracket that the return spring attaches to on the block as the old one was letting the spring rub really bad on the block where the casting protrudes for the oil filter. I also made a new connector link that goes from the return spring to the clutch lever. After it was all hooked up I adjusted it so I had about an inch of free travel on the pedal, so that should be good.
I also hooked up all the wires and cable for the fuel injection, the starter solenoid and distributor to the MSD ignition unit. Then on the driver's side, I hooked up the main feed from the starter to the feed block on the firewall, connected the cable from the transmission and fished the cable for the O² sensor back to the sensor on the collector adapter. It looks like I'm going to have to remove the clutch linkage to get in to be able to secure all those cables away from anything they could rub on. I had gotten the flange on the steering column coupled to the rag joint, but had to install the bolts that fasten it to together.
At that point, I decided it was time to remove the legs with the casters from the subframe and set the front end on jack stands under the front of the subframe, and that was easy, just one bolt on each of them. They were really a great idea that let me be able to move the subframe assembly around easily. Glad I thought of it!
By then it was after 5:00PM and my feet were getting cold, so I called it a day. I'll probably hit it again tomorrow for a while in the afternoon. I still need to pull the master cylinder off and bench bleed it, connect the front and rear sections of the line going to the rear brakes, then hook up the lines from the front and rear brakes at the proportioning valve and Line Lock solenoid. I might even flush out the lines and get the system bled. That would be a big step forward.
Sorry about the long post, once I get started, I just ramble on and on.
So, I rolled the engine, trans and subframe under the body, got it aligned with the alignment holes and installed all the body mounts. Once I was sure it was positioned correctly I tightened all the bolts, and hopefully that's the last time I'll need to so that.
Today, I had to remove the transmission mount and lower the rear of the transmission to be able to get to some of the bolts that hold the shifter assembly to the transmission. Once that was done, I decided to install the shifter lever and boot. That was a real pain in the behind. If you've ever tried drilling through carpet and padding material, you know what I'm talking about. I tried to ream out a hole for the drill so I could drill holes for the screws that secure the trim plate and shifter boot without the bit getting wound if in the material, but that didn't go so well. It ended up taking an hour and a half to get four holes drilled and four screws installed, but I got it done. I think it looks pretty good, and the shifter is positioned just about where it was on the old Muncie, but a couple of inches taller.
I worked on the clutch linkage, got that all assembled but had to make a new bracket that the return spring attaches to on the block as the old one was letting the spring rub really bad on the block where the casting protrudes for the oil filter. I also made a new connector link that goes from the return spring to the clutch lever. After it was all hooked up I adjusted it so I had about an inch of free travel on the pedal, so that should be good.
I also hooked up all the wires and cable for the fuel injection, the starter solenoid and distributor to the MSD ignition unit. Then on the driver's side, I hooked up the main feed from the starter to the feed block on the firewall, connected the cable from the transmission and fished the cable for the O² sensor back to the sensor on the collector adapter. It looks like I'm going to have to remove the clutch linkage to get in to be able to secure all those cables away from anything they could rub on. I had gotten the flange on the steering column coupled to the rag joint, but had to install the bolts that fasten it to together.
At that point, I decided it was time to remove the legs with the casters from the subframe and set the front end on jack stands under the front of the subframe, and that was easy, just one bolt on each of them. They were really a great idea that let me be able to move the subframe assembly around easily. Glad I thought of it!
By then it was after 5:00PM and my feet were getting cold, so I called it a day. I'll probably hit it again tomorrow for a while in the afternoon. I still need to pull the master cylinder off and bench bleed it, connect the front and rear sections of the line going to the rear brakes, then hook up the lines from the front and rear brakes at the proportioning valve and Line Lock solenoid. I might even flush out the lines and get the system bled. That would be a big step forward.
Sorry about the long post, once I get started, I just ramble on and on.
MossRoad
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Nice!
I hear you about carpet and drill bits. I once grabbed a string on our bedroom berber carpet with a drill bit and it yanked out a several foot snag before I realized what happened.
One of life's little lessons.
I hear you about carpet and drill bits. I once grabbed a string on our bedroom berber carpet with a drill bit and it yanked out a several foot snag before I realized what happened.
One of life's little lessons.
goeduck
Super Star Member
Drilling carpetNice!
I hear you about carpet and drill bits. I once grabbed a string on our bedroom berber carpet with a drill bit and it yanked out a several foot snag before I realized what happened.
One of life's little lessons.
BleedingOrange
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Looks like your build is coming along nicely. I,m really enjoying the pictures. Anytime I have drilled thru carpet, I ran the drill in reverse, and let the built up heat singe the carpet as it was going thru. I have also found a hot soldering iron tip works good as well, after I have poked a large sized metal pick thru the carpet to make sure I was putting the hole in the correct place.
murphy1244
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I am surprised your car has a o2 sensor.
OP
BravoXray
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The O² sensor is for the MSD fuel injection system and is installed in the collector adapter bolted to the left side header.
civilian
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Bleeding Orange beat me to it, but I heard of guys heating a bolt to push though rubber belting on conveyor. Was going to suggest trying something similar on a scrap of carpet. Glad OP got them drilled. Jon
murphy1244
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Ah Here i'm thinking holley. Fuel injected sounds better!
OP
BravoXray
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Still pecking away at a few loose ends on the Nova. I got the coil and oil pressure sender hooked up, connected the front and rear sections of the line to the rear brakes, made up a short braided SS hose to connect the front and rear sections of the fuel line, pulled the clutch linkage out so I could get my hands in to tie the O² sensor cable to the transmission cable, put the clutch linkage back in, and dug out the fan I bought long ago and hung it on the water pump. I'm not sure yet if the fan hub extension I have on it is going to be the right length until I get the radiator mounted up.
Yesterday, I pulled the master cylinder off, got it bench bled, bolted it back on the brake booster and hooked up all the lines. I had to go to NAPA and pick up a quart of DOT3 brake fluid, as I only had about an inch left in the quart I had, and it was probably five years old. Brake fluid is highly hydroscopic and I didn't want to take a chance using old contaminated fluid. It took a couple of hours the get all the leaks stopped and all the calipers bled. I had left a plug in the proportioning valve and one in the Line Lock valve loose and both were leaking. Also, a few of lines on the proportioning valve, master cylinder, the connection of the rear hard line to flex line to the rear brakes and Line Lock valve were leaking or seeping. I installed stainless steel brake lines, and you really have to tighten the fittings up or they will leak. I used my home made pressure bleeding tool to find all the leaks and get everything bled. That took about 80% of the quart of brake fluid, and now the brake pedal feels nice and firm.
I have decided to use the right side header as is and not try to move the #4 tube away from the idler arm, as with the dent I made in the tube, it clears the arm by 1/4" or so at full left turn. I think I'll get that mounted up tomorrow and maybe start assembling the rest of the exhaust system. After that, the only thing I need to do under the car is hook up the parking brakes. I'm still pondering on the best way to do that, as the staggered shocks on the rear axle force one caliper to be mounted forward of the axle and one to the rear. This makes hooking up the parking brake cable on the driver's side, the one in front of the axle, take a convoluted path, and I'm trying to figure out a way to correct that. Once that's done, I think I'm going to put the tires on it and either set it on some foot tall stands or just set it on the floor, I haven't decided which yet, to assemble the front end.
Keep your digits warm.
Yesterday, I pulled the master cylinder off, got it bench bled, bolted it back on the brake booster and hooked up all the lines. I had to go to NAPA and pick up a quart of DOT3 brake fluid, as I only had about an inch left in the quart I had, and it was probably five years old. Brake fluid is highly hydroscopic and I didn't want to take a chance using old contaminated fluid. It took a couple of hours the get all the leaks stopped and all the calipers bled. I had left a plug in the proportioning valve and one in the Line Lock valve loose and both were leaking. Also, a few of lines on the proportioning valve, master cylinder, the connection of the rear hard line to flex line to the rear brakes and Line Lock valve were leaking or seeping. I installed stainless steel brake lines, and you really have to tighten the fittings up or they will leak. I used my home made pressure bleeding tool to find all the leaks and get everything bled. That took about 80% of the quart of brake fluid, and now the brake pedal feels nice and firm.
I have decided to use the right side header as is and not try to move the #4 tube away from the idler arm, as with the dent I made in the tube, it clears the arm by 1/4" or so at full left turn. I think I'll get that mounted up tomorrow and maybe start assembling the rest of the exhaust system. After that, the only thing I need to do under the car is hook up the parking brakes. I'm still pondering on the best way to do that, as the staggered shocks on the rear axle force one caliper to be mounted forward of the axle and one to the rear. This makes hooking up the parking brake cable on the driver's side, the one in front of the axle, take a convoluted path, and I'm trying to figure out a way to correct that. Once that's done, I think I'm going to put the tires on it and either set it on some foot tall stands or just set it on the floor, I haven't decided which yet, to assemble the front end.
Keep your digits warm.