Restoman's Jubilee

[Kirk-NJ]

All of the eyelets or balls on the three point have lost the bearing material. The ball just floats about 3/16" in the arms. Other than replacing the entire arms, can I chop them off and weld on new? What's the typical repair method?

Yes you can cut and weld new ones on. Tractor supply use to carry them.
You tractor is a jubliee/NAA. NOT a 601.
When needing parts tell them 1953 jubilee or 1954 NAA.
The only difference between the two are serial numbers and the nose badge. I stated that your nose badge was changed out on the other site.
Look on the lower section of the block on the left hand side there should be a set of production numbers on it.

Kirk

 

[Restoman]

Yes you can cut and weld new ones on. Tractor supply use to carry them.
You tractor is a jubliee/NAA. NOT a 601.
When needing parts tell them 1953 jubilee or 1954 NAA.
The only difference between the two are serial numbers and the nose badge.
Kirk

Ah, time to pull out the welder I guess.
I'm guessing when it was painted the nose badge was just replaced with what was on the shelf. Being plastic.

Is this the only game in town for OEM replacement parking brake hardware?
Parking Brakes | Red Rock Manufacturing

 

[Bartman1959]

fidowanttobe, Since you're in ND, you're not too far away to check out these beauties.
boise farm & garden "ford tractor" - craigslist

 

[Soundguy]

You can tell by the serial number stamped on the engine block just what she is. If the pto shaft is similar to the 8n the bearing is secured to the shaft with a sleeve that has to be heated to remove and replace, otherwise it's pretty easy to do. There are a number of vintage ford tractor websites that have a lot of good information.
Looks like a fun project that could result in a pretty nice old tractor.

Sorry, you dont have to heat the sleeve, and neither sleeve nor bearing has to be removed to replace the seal in the bearing carrier.

Only very early units had the sn on the block, the vast majority had it on the bellhousing.

 

[Soundguy]

Ah, time to pull out the welder I guess.
I'm guessing when it was painted the nose badge was just replaced with what was on the shelf. Being plastic.

Is this the only game in town for OEM replacement parking brake hardware?
Parking Brakes | Red Rock Manufacturing

Your OEM parking break is a toothed pawl and sector plate, stomp brake, set pawl.

Red rock sells aftermarket versions.

 

[mapper]

Sorry, you dont have to heat the sleeve, and neither sleeve nor bearing has to be removed to replace the seal in the bearing carrier.

Only very early units had the sn on the block, the vast majority had it on the bellhousing.

OP stated that the bearing was sloppy and needed to be replaced, the seal can be replaced without removing the bearing, but to remove the bearing the sleeve has to be removed.....

 

[Soundguy]

OP stated that the bearing was sloppy

no.. he said :

ORC is super wobbly

You CAN have a tight bearing and a wore out ORC, and a leaky seal. He needs to actually pull his bearing carrier and shaft, then check the bearing. I replace about 1 bearing for every 15 seals I replace on old fords.

but to remove the bearing the sleeve has to be removed.....

Ahh.. but you said:

with a sleeve that has to be heated to remove and replace

This is news to me.. I've never HAD to heat one!

As a quick note.. the early and late or replacement shafts are a hair different. I find the later shafts easier to work on.

The sleeve is easy to split, and it's easy to drive on. I would never heat one to remove it if the bearing was good. too easy to turn a good bearing into a bad bearing that way.

 

[mapper]

no.. he said :

You CAN have a tight bearing and a wore out ORC, and a leaky seal. He needs to actually pull his bearing carrier and shaft, then check the bearing. I replace about 1 bearing for every 15 seals I replace on old fords.



Ahh.. but you said:

This is news to me.. I've never HAD to heat one!

As a quick note.. the early and late or replacement shafts are a hair different. I find the later shafts easier to work on.

The sleeve is easy to split, and it's easy to drive on. I would never heat one to remove it if the bearing was good. too easy to turn a good bearing into a bad bearing that way.

Only replaced the bearing and seal on my 48 8n, sleeve had to be heated, would not go on even with hydraulic press. Sounds like you have a lot more experience with these than I.

Bottom line the OP is getting the information that he needs

 

[Soundguy]

A hyd press wow!

I'm guessing the sleeve they sold you had too small an ID, assuming the shaft underneath wasn't somehow damaged.

I've done a few

 

[Restoman]

Good news, its just the ORC that is slap wore out. I have a ton of parts coming to get her straightened out.
I hot wired her today to see if she would turn over and all I got was a "whirrrrr". Sounds like the starter is not poking out and engaging.